R34 Gtr With No Boost Pressure

[full_stick]

Hi guys, I took my car into my mechanic a couple of days ago for a major service as I've nearly done 100 000km and he rings me up and says that he suspects he's blown one of the turbos as there is no boost pressure. It still has stock turbo's on it, its pretty standard, just boost controller, power fc, trust dump/front pipe kit and trust titanium cat back (no cat). I have a few questions:

As a consumer what are my rights, I've done 40,000 km's with these turbo's and had no problems at all and he drives it 200m and blows a turbo. Is he liable for that? Is there an automotive body that I can contact and find out what rights I have as a consumer cos surely he needs to return the car to me in the same condition that I bought it in right? I asked him how many rev's he was doing when he noticed the immediate drop in power and he got all defensive and said he wasn't strapping it. I'm f**cken furious as he didn't even have the courtesy to apologise and wasn't remorseful in the slightest.

The mechanic said that the power fc hand controller was unplugged so he plugged it in while the car was on and it immediately turned the car off. I'm wondering whether he has caused some sort of issue with the computer, possibly reset it, i really don't know. I'm obviously no mechanic, not even an internet mechanic so your advice is much appreciated.

Secondly regardless of my rights I need to fix the problem. He suspects its the rear turbo thats gone so it looks like I'm up for new turbo's. I'm thinking along the lines of HKS 2530's, garret 2860 or even if I can get them cheap N1's or GTSS's. If I buy the turbo's alone what other parts do I need? Do I need any gaskets or bolts or whatever? I just really want to get my car back on the road asap.

So hypothetically lets say I get HKS 2530's as thats what I really want (but can't really afford) do I need to upgrade the manifolds? Will upgrading the manifolds give me better flow?

If anyone has a pair of any of the above mentioned turbo's at a reasonable price please pm me or contact me on 0416 295 432.

[paulr33]

it would be possible for the car to turn off when the hand controller is plugged in

ive seen my fuel pump control reset and re-prime the pump wen the hand controller is plugged in

[DLOOOK]

You should contact the Department of Fair trading they have an Automotive division. They will act as a mediator and failing that you can go to the small claims tribunal.

I know that when you get a car dynoed you normally have to sign an indemnity form, making them not liable for any engine damage. In your case i assume its different, cos you were simply getting a service done.

A blown turbo on a RB26 in some cases could also mean an engine rebuild as the engine may have ingested part of ceramic wheels.

Let us know how you go. Good luck

[MrStabby]

Stock turbos blowing up on GTRs happens all the time, they are a known weak point once they get old. So if that's what happened you cant blame the mechanic, and he certainly isnt liable. Even if he was giving it some stick so what? Same thing happens every day when people get dyno tunes, and that doesnt make the tuner liable.

BTW - what boost were you running them at?

Best bet to get it back together is probably the garret 2860-7s @ 2600 for the pair. Nissan gasket kit is ~$180. Since you'll be getting someone else to do it let them sort out all the parts, with the possible exception of the turbos. Plus plenty of labour because its a bitch of a job. Since you're in there its worth doing the o2 sensors at the same time. HKS 2530 are bigger turbos. Not much point in putting them on unless you add all the other bits required to make them useful.

[Johnny]

You didnt have it dyno tuned did you? he simply did a service and took the car for a thrash right; a clutch dump and full throttle 1st 2nd gear is enough to spike boost to 1.20bar and probably blow the turbos.

from this thread i now know to set the rev limit on the power fc to 3000rpm before i leave it with anyone.

Try n get him to pay for the damages; obvioulsy with another mechanic otherwise plan your actions carefully.

[full_stick]

Johnny no I didn't have it dyno tuned at all, the car was strictly in for a 100,000km service, including adjustable cam gears. He even had the nerve to ask me for my old cam gears after he'd blown my turbo.

Mr Kotter I'm really looking at the 2530's as from what I've read they can supply the amount of power I'll eventually want from my car which is approximately 350awkw. I pretty much want as much power as I can get without having to rebuild it straight away. I know I'll eventually need to rebuild it but I want to be able to drive around for a few months first. I'm going to go for the 2530's unless I can get something else really cheap, where abouts can I source the kit as I had a look at nengun and they no longer stock it, its discontinued?

I have the following engine mods:

Trust/Greddy adjustable cam gears

Blitz icolor boost controller

Apexi pod filters

trust/greddy split dumps and front pipe kit

trust/greddy titanium cat back

apexi power fc

(just serviced so new timing belt, water pump, plugs, thermostat etc)

What additional mods would be essential to get the 2530's running properly? I was thinking of the following:

nismo air flow meters x 2

Sard 800cc injectors

aftermarket fuel pump

Oil Cooler

Oil Catch can (I'm wanting a vent to atmo but I can't find them any ideas???)

Fuel pressure regulator???

[bradsm87]

2x Garrett GT2860R 707160-5 (VERY VERY similar to GT2530's but a fair bit cheaper. A much better value turbo so U can spend the saved money elsewhere.) - buy within australia

2x Bosch Z32 AFM - buy within australia

2x Apexi pod filter for Z32 AFM - buy from Japan

6x Nismo 600cc injectors - buy from Japan

Nismo fuel pump - buy from Japan

HKS S-Type oil cooler kit - buy from Japan

EXTERNAL OIL RETURN AT THE VERY LEAST FOR OIL CONTROL! Is worth paying the extra for a Nismo sump baffle as well though. Ur engine will more than likely die very shortly after unless U do these mods. Yes, the engine will have to come out.

That stuff together should make a reliable 330-ish rwkw. With a pair of Tomei poncam type b's (260 in and ex) and a fuel pressure reg, will be good for 380-ish rwkw. Stock manifolds are fine. Just make sure U port out the holes that meet the turbos out to the full size. The 2x bosch Z32's and a pair of apexi pods to bolt on will cost about the same as a pair of smaller nismo afm's so the Z32's are obviously the way to go.

Edited August 17, 2009 by bradsm87

[full_stick]

Thanks for that bradsm87. So where would the best place in australia be to source Garrett turbo's??? And also where to soure the Bosch z32's???

Sorry for the newb questions but I just want to clarrify that the GT-SS's, 2860 -7's and N1's are very similar if not equivallent??? So what sort of power would I be looking at with these turbo with the right supporting mods???

And the same goes for 2530's and 2860-5's yeah???

I've seen the turbo graphs for these already so I know they're good for 350ish awkw or there abouts with the right mods of course.

[NickR33]

not really the mechanics fault IMO... even if he did open the taps a bit the turbo sounds like it was on its way out, it would have happened to you when you got the car back anyway... still sucks but that's life (and cars)... I would have at least said sorry but maybe he thought that was admitting liability

are you in Vic?

[bradsm87]

Thanks for that bradsm87. So where would the best place in australia be to source Garrett turbo's??? And also where to soure the Bosch z32's???

Sorry for the newb questions but I just want to clarrify that the GT-SS's, 2860 -7's and N1's are very similar if not equivallent??? So what sort of power would I be looking at with these turbo with the right supporting mods???

And the same goes for 2530's and 2860-5's yeah???

I've seen the turbo graphs for these already so I know they're good for 350ish awkw or there abouts with the right mods of course.

-7's and N1's are older and inferior to the newer, better -9/GT-SS

-5 and GT2530 are VERY similar but i think the 2530 is 63 trim and the -5 is 62 trim. VERY similar tho.

If you don't plan on upgrading camshafts, I would recommend the -9 turbo instead of the -5. The -9 is good for about 300rwkw, maybe a little more.

Croydon Racing Develpoments are pretty cheap and usually stock both the turbos and the Z32's.

Jesse Streeter ([email protected]) is the best bet for Japan parts. MUCH faster than nengun and usually a little cheaper.

If U are contemplating not doing any oil control mods due to money, you can get away with keeping the stock injectors and AFM's for the time being and run a pair of -9 turbos on about 1 bar. Should make about 280rwkw.

Edited August 17, 2009 by bradsm87

[full_stick]

What would the max power I'd be able to get out of some -9's, if I'd done all the required supporting mods? Are they slightly larger than the stock turbo's? I've read their response is equivalent to stock but I unfortunately don't know anyone with them actually on their car.

Also why is it that 2530's seem to be a better turbo than the 2860's? I say this because I've read quite a few times that they can generate slightly more power especially in the top end range...

[bradsm87]

What would the max power I'd be able to get out of some -9's, if I'd done all the required supporting mods? Are they slightly larger than the stock turbo's? I've read their response is equivalent to stock but I unfortunately don't know anyone with them actually on their car.

Also why is it that 2530's seem to be a better turbo than the 2860's? I say this because I've read quite a few times that they can generate slightly more power especially in the top end range...

Maybe they weren't comparing them to the right 2860's or there were other variables involved.

-9's can make 330rwkw with the right supporting mods and they're noticably more responsive than -5's or 2530's. I would recommend the -9's. A much nicer responsive street turbo.

[**RB2530**]

IMO at the moment you don't have enough information to lay blame or not lay blame...You know a turbo has failed but you don't know why.

1. Was it due to normal wear and tear?

or

2. Was it due to an error of the mechanic?...ie did he dropped a nut/washer or something down the intake piping...This has been done before...

I would suggest you get the turbos removed and inspected by someone who knows what they are looking at. Tell the mechanic you are going to do this and gauge his reaction... Even suggest to him that he can pull it apart in the presence of yourself or someone who you nominate...

good luck with it....

[full_stick]

"The 2x bosch Z32's and a pair of apexi pods to bolt on will cost about the same as a pair of smaller nismo afm's so the Z32's are obviously the way to go." - bradsm87

Hey mate I've just ordered the apexi pods but just got the standard ones, they haven't been sent by Nengun yet. Should I change the order and get the Z32 model??? Whats the difference anyway??? Is the intake pipe diameter different to suit the different air flow meters??? Are the Nismo AFM much better than Z32's or are they just the same thing.

Thanks again guys...

[bradsm87]

The Nismo AFM aren't better than Z32's. They're just smaller so they fit on the standard air box.

You can either get a power intake kit to suit the BNR34 with Z32 AFMs which comes with a couple of bends and a mounting kit or for a fair bit cheaper, you can just get a pair of Apexi pods that bolt straight on to Z32's and mount em how u want em (part number 500-A022 TIMES TWO).

The power intake kit for the standard AFM's won't fit.

[full_stick]

So if anything the z32's are better as they are larger in diameter and therefore allow for better airflow???

I've spoken to consumer affairs and have been told that I need to take it to another mechanic and get them to basically write a report saying that the original mechanic was at fault. Now this is almost impossible to prove especially in this situation, unless I find a bolt or washer or what have you in the intake then I don't really have much of a chance do I. Real f**cken disappointed. To be honest I'm willing to pay for the turbo's but I'd like him to do the work for free if possible...

[bradsm87]

Yep z32 better

[full_stick]

The Nismo injectors seem to be the go from what I've read, will the 740cc items fit the stock rail???

[bradsm87]

Nope Nismo 740's are side feed for SR20's and RB25's. Nismo 600cc's are what U want. I've got a mate making 400rwkw on em so should be sweet.

[full_stick]

Yeah I had a feeling that was the case. I want something a little bigger (than 600's) as I don't want to be upgrading again in the future. I guess the alternative is the sard 700 or 800cc's. After doing some research and reading as much as I can on the forums it seems that the multi hole injectors are better than the singles. On Nengun Sard only have the single hole 700cc's and only the 800's have two holes but half the response time.

Do Sard make a 700 multihole injector? or will I have to go with the 800cc. I see a large proportion of people on these forums using the Sard 700's are they single hole version??? Just want to get something that's been proven to be a good product time and time again. My stock injectors and AFM's are already max'd out and the car is only 255rwkw...