Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Myself in R33, and Michelle in her Open Wheeler, competed at OP on 14th and 15th Aug, as my first time at one of their events, in recently purchased (repairing / setting up) R33. I was totally shocked - only 3 Dato's, to my knowledge, competed.

Excluding practice, and the Late Model Kingswood's leaking oil all over the track, this is a great starter pack and beyond for, anybody, to have a great time at a full race meeting!

Had a ball of course. 1st in qualifying, and every race, including 1st Jap Turbo class / 1st Muscle Car Outright - PB of 1.16.9 on Dunlop DZ03's - 20psi boost, road rego'd R33. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/
Share on other sites

great work stuart, you are really pedalling that new car around. Keep us posted before the next round. BTW you need a new username!

I saw michelle had 2x DNFs, what was the problem? Hope its all running ok again now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4772872
Share on other sites

great work stuart, you are really pedalling that new car around. Keep us posted before the next round. BTW you need a new username!

I saw michelle had 2x DNFs, what was the problem? Hope its all running ok again now

Thanks

Re; the car - and its many early issues, must say, its not the R32 yet, but starting to enjoy.

As far as new username goes - the only option with be R32 / R33 as I have just stolen front shocks/springs from 32, for 33 for next event (don't tell Karen)

Next round is NSW Supersprint 12th Sept - OP, followed by 17th October last round OP South.

Michelle had some overheating problems, and did a great job babysitting our car Friday night - didnt get a chance to catch up with her after event - but watched her run's, last seemed to have a misfire - fuel / pressure / flow issues to me?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4777119
Share on other sites

i would of been there but my cars are in peices good work on the race stuart hopefully ill be there raceing next year it seems like a good class

Thanks Tim - Its a great class, had a ball, was all good, be cautious of brutes, should have footage shortly, if we are there or can help give us a yell, when you are up and running.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4777135
Share on other sites

That is flying Stuart, well done!!

I would have been there...but dont have my Irace licence or log book....yet. :P

Thanks - keep watching times, they're just going to get better - only a bit, but better - fasters good, the faster the better.

If you need any assistance send a PM - I got mine the week before (had previous Cams and Motorcycle Aust National Licences) - but Rod (Organiser) and Gary (OLT)from IRace were excellent to deal wtih,

A quick medical, flag review and general knowledge tests, and 20 laps observed practice and you could be on your way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4777165
Share on other sites

I think im still abit confused with the categories, or maybe they were just running multiple categories in the same session to save time.

Depending on entries - they seem to chuck em all in ie

Muscle Division - had HDT, Jap Turbo, Imp Prod / Sport Sedans, Saloon cars, Utes, and Muscle classes - no doubt this will change slightly dependant on entries.

Hence the Handicap races - I started 50 seconds + 1 lap, others had 20 second delay etc etc.

I beleive their should be coverage on Speed Week this Sunday 1pm - 3pm.

All up, I did about 75 laps for $395 - great value - public entry is free and will be televised - all good and I got 2 1st trophies - Muscle Car Division - Outright and Jap Turbo class. Happy as!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4777183
Share on other sites

Thanks Tim - Its a great class, had a ball, was all good, be cautious of brutes, should have footage shortly, if we are there or can help give us a yell, when you are up and running.

sweet thanks for that the part im struggleing with is what class to get my car log booked for as i want to do targa and dutton and hill climbs and time attack also this series hopefully next year

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4777188
Share on other sites

sweet thanks for that the part im struggleing with is what class to get my car log booked for as i want to do targa and dutton and hill climbs and time attack also this series hopefully next year

Tim, under cams rules you can log book your car in any class eg - R32 is 2A - Closed Sports Car, what you must do is read entries / supp regs carefully - as to what class your car is eligible for and enter it!!

The log book class, is of no main concern it is the eligability of how you enter.

Hope that helps if you need any more info please do not hesitate to PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4779444
Share on other sites

Stuart you were flying! most races you were lapping the backmarkers! :down:

I didnt get a chance to come down and say hello!

I was doing Race Control for the event and was nice to see a GTR out there!

Firstly, thankyou - for doing race control, cause if you're not there, we can't be there!!

Thanks again, I am sure from all competitors - make time to come and have a chat to the cranky old bloke in the Silver Skyline!!

Where are all the skylines? Come, have a go - you'll love it - promise! Hillcimbs, supersprint and circuit - heaps of options

PS - Dont tell anyone - this big Secret - on how to keep an RB26 together (4 Competition), this has worked for 4 years with our R32 and fixed all issues to date with R33, even with extended sump and baffles (R33) - re oil surge; or whatever you wish to call engine failures (some say bearings) These cars have consistantly ran sub 1.17s; OP, EC sub 1.45 and Wakefield 1.07's (no issues to date)

Simple Update - pending on engine spec, could cost from $100 to $400

Not fool proof, but has worked great for us -already being copied - be careful! - PM for info! Happy to help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4779505
Share on other sites

Most of our cars are still being built...I know mine is going a lot slower than I had planned. :blush:

Please feel free to Pm me with this secret weapon engine saving device...because I really dont feel like building another engine.

1:16.9 is hooking congrats on the win mate :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4780231
Share on other sites

Tim, under cams rules you can log book your car in any class eg - R32 is 2A - Closed Sports Car, what you must do is read entries / supp regs carefully - as to what class your car is eligible for and enter it!!

The log book class, is of no main concern it is the eligability of how you enter.

Hope that helps if you need any more info please do not hesitate to PM me.

yeah that makes sense thanks stuart

1:16 is crazy quick congrats

as to where all the skylines are

ive got 2 33 gtrs both in peices now as i keep breaking them :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4780963
Share on other sites

quote name='Beer Baron' date='21 Aug 2009, 04:34 PM' post='4781104']

yes please tell me the RB26 long life secret! i prefer my engines to remain whole. :devil:

Here's two options that both work!

R32 is a bit ugly but works, drain from valve cover catch can back to rear turbo drain is general knowledge our biggest improvement is venting valve cover ie from oil cap back to catch can.

Under blowby conditions, this stops oil pumping from valve covers or can, as it is vented both ends - no longer wants to push the oil out, lets engine breathe.

Prior to this the R32 - standard engine and sump - would fill 3 ltr catch can in 40 second hillclimb - engine still strong, no fumes, remembering if there is 3 lts of oil in catch can 2ltrs in valve cover doesn't leave much for the engine! Thats why oil pumps blow up etc etc For FoSC regularity events as a safety measure ran a holley blue fuel pump from 3ltr catch can back to dip stick tube, this also worked great under extreme conditions

R33 - most of this setup was existing on car, eg 9ltr high octane sump, twin catch cans main drain back to sump - we added the filler cap back to rear valve cover can hose and earles one-way valve catch can back to sump - this also stopped it filling the catch can in 5 laps at Wakefield - following approximately 75 laps at Oran Park GP - breather hose from main catch can, probably half a dozen drops of oil!

See Picks attached

post-62970-1251007401_thumb.jpg

post-62970-1251007552_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4783518
Share on other sites

i like the desine stuart have you also got a drain in the rear of the head on the exhaust side

off topic why does every one have so much trouble with blow by ive done 20 minute sesions with a 9500 rev limiter and 5 hours straight on a dyno the most oil ive ever got in my catch can is about 150 mill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4783906
Share on other sites

i like the desine stuart have you also got a drain in the rear of the head on the exhaust side

off topic why does every one have so much trouble with blow by ive done 20 minute sesions with a 9500 rev limiter and 5 hours straight on a dyno the most oil ive ever got in my catch can is about 150 mill

Don't have drain from rear of head, will do this when head comes off.

As you know blow bye can be an issue, the biggest issue is standard head and G-Forces restricts oil return from head. If oils at breather point any blowbye has no choice but to push oil out.

Lots of things have helped - mines baffles, oil restrictors etc. The best is results is this breather setup, if you have a big budget, dry sumps the answer. Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283551-irace-op/#findComment-4784196
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...