Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

West

If you are in CA its easy. The best induction system made for the GTR is the stock arrangement with a set of Password JDM snorkels (made in CA) for the airboxes. Forget about the pod filter intake kits, they are hot air generators and power reducers for the most. They also tend to cause laminar flow and tuning problems for the airflow meters. Folks will work this out soon enough.

The GTR exhaust is just a matter of taste. Obviously I would recommend a Willall midpipe - wouldnt I - but the reality is that from the cat back there is little to be had (nothing, no power) in a full system. Why? The stock R35 system is totally straight through, and most of the aftermarket systems are actually smaller in diameter around the mufflers. True. For aesthetic pleasure then by all means go ahead and get a big shiny, but it wont sound/go any different to a stock system + midpipe :)

Edited by Martin Donnon

Thats excellent advice Martin. It is impressive how many of the standard parts on the R35 GTR can not be improved on by much. I have always hated buying a new car & having to rip the whole exhaust system off & chuck it in the bin.

At least with your midpipe it is a quick & easy mod & you get a great power/sound improvement without having to change the rest at huge expense. That money saved can then be put towards upgraded turbos instead!

I will try and answer that rather condensed post in point form......

1) Thats typical of an internal wastegate boost curve

Would a stronger pair of wastegates' actuators redice this loss in high rev range Martin?

Edited by 9krpm

No I dont think so 9krpm, I would suggest thats what the turbos have to deliver and between being on the edge of compressor and turbine flow, the whole system is starting to become 'on the limit' in terms of its response :P

Having said that the actuators used in this instance are 0.8bar units which MAY not be quiet enough for 1.4 bar application. On the flipside this gives the end user the great ability of being able to 'flick' the switch to a nice low boost level for everday driving that 1.2 bar actuators simply wont deliver. We will be mapping the next such installation with stock 0.7 bar actuators and a new RPM derived Wastage duty cycle table to deliver a similar result to aftermarket actuators and boost controller without the complication and expense :D

The project is nearly completed, a few more items to go and it will be all done, a big thanks to Martin and all the guys at Willall Racing who invested their expertise and have worked tirelessly on this project. The guys at Willall are undoubtedly the #1 GTR specialists in Aus.

Some pics:

gtr1.jpg

gtr2.jpg

gtr3.jpg

gtr4.jpg

gtr5.jpg

gtr6.jpg

gtr7.jpg

gtr8.jpg

gtr9.jpg

gtr10.jpg

For those interested the current mod list on this R35 is:

Engine and transmission:

Willall:

Turbo upgrade (WR35TT )

Front Mount Transmission Oil Cooler (WR35TC)

Rear Diff Cooler (WR35DC)

Front Diff Cooler (WR35DC-F)

High Volume Oil pan (WR35OP)

Trans fluid (WR35TM)

Diff Fluid (WR35DF)

Motor Oil (WR35MO)

Gearbox seals (WR35GS)

Mid Pipe (WR35MP)

PPG 1st gear set

HKS Super Sequential BOV Kit

HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller

HKS A/F Knock AMP Sensor

HKS super fire spark plugs

Cobb AccessPORT with custom tune

5Zigen downpipes

5Zigen Spec tune exhaust

AAM engine oil cooler with custom fabricated lines

AAM wastgate actuators

SSP RS Clutch pack

Duetschworks 800cc Fuel injectors

MCR/ARC twin intercooler kit

K&N Filters

Nissan Spec V radiator coolant reservoir and fittings

Exterior:

Password JDM:

RAM air induction snorkels

NACA ducts

Radiator cooling panel

Intake Manifold

Bonnet

Boot lid

Rear diffuser blades

Rear speaker shelf

Elevated rear spoiler

Door sill covers

Engine compartment covers

Stillen:

Front lip

Side skirts

Wheels, suspension and brakes:

Volk TE37 G2 wheel

Eibach springs

Cobb Tuning Anti-Sway bar kit

AP Racing J Hook Rotors Front

AP Racing J Hook Rotors Rear

Stillen stainless steel brake lines

Endless Brake pads

Interior:

MCR paddle shifter

Sparco Steering wheel

Works Bell Rapfix II quick release steering hub and flipper

Items soon to be installed:

Password JDM rear seat delete kit

Tecnocraft T1 carbon race seats

Stillen AP Carbon Ceramic brakes

Edited by SlipR35
Is the car actually going to see some track time or be parked outside cafés all day? .

Simple answer....if you got one you can....if not, well you know what to do :D

After seeing the custom race trailer thats built for it though I would "suggest" it might be a half decent Time Attack kind of thing - just a hunch is all :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...