Jump to content
SAU Community

Need More Lock On R32

GTS4WD
 Share

Recommended Posts

Habler Rising Star

Habler

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am tired and not thinking very well but if you wheel is hitting something now (like LCA or chassis) knuckles will not solve the problem as your rim is already hitting with the limited lock. You need to figure out what and where is hitting so you can fix it.

If it is just the knuckle knob thing hitting LCA lock stop then yes, modifying knuckles and/or LCA will get you more lock but then you may run into other issues of hitting depending on offset, tyre etc.

My R33 knuckles are getting modified today by Nigel. Should have them in soon but the next drift day isn't till December for me to try them out :P

Edit. Forgot to mention Nigel also supplies spacers that help with binding issues. They aren't cheap but look like a must when wanting that extra lock.

Edited by gunmetalgrey
  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nisskid
nisskid

well first it's good to know exactly what's restricting lock. the steering rack only moves so far, the knuckles have a stopper which corresponds with a little tab on the LCA which stops lock, the tyre

nisskid
nisskid

stolen from ns, nice and simple:

Posted Images

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

with 17x9 +30 and 235/45 and spacers i can almost guarentee u its on the chassis rails. not much u can do but go lower offset, smaller tyre, or longer LCA's (R33 etc).

nigels knuckles will lower the ackerman, as well as give u more lock, so to even consider getting the most lock out of those ur gonna have to go 17x9 +10ish

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

going to try and modify my current set, well the rears at least, making them 17x10 +12, which will allow me to run 25mm spacers up front to make the fronts 17x9 -1, this will give me tonnes of clearance up front.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
with 17x9 +30 and 235/45 and spacers i can almost guarentee u its on the chassis rails. not much u can do but go lower offset, smaller tyre, or longer LCA's (R33 etc).

nigels knuckles will lower the ackerman, as well as give u more lock, so to even consider getting the most lock out of those ur gonna have to go 17x9 +10ish

looks like nigels knuckles and new rims. Stagea for sale BTW :)

Is it going to be doing damage to the rails?

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
looks like nigels knuckles and new rims. Stagea for sale BTW :)

Is it going to be doing damage to the rails?

nah not really, it's ur tyre rubbing, might make a bit of a mess of the thin metal at the seams that comes off the rails, but nothing structural.

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
Running 17x9 35+ ofset, 225 40 tyres, and rubs on chassis at full lock.

Thinking about r33 LCA's and lock spacers, or even just R33 LCA's.

But s14 rack sounds like a fun job!

:)

add some 25mm spacers and it'll be gravy

bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted (edited)

i got r33 LCA's tie rods with extra lock 7 deg castor 3 deg camber bumper steer adj running 17 x 9 +17 P1's with 235 /45 ku36's on front and got no probs with hitting anything and decent lock

pic below but obv not full lock got one somewhere will put up if i find

post-41809-1252977333_thumb.jpg

Edited by bcozican
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
This is a picture of one installed.

All the info you need about them is in this thread...amongst the 40 or so pages lol

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...823&st=1080

Hope you like reading.

Guessing that is the knuckle thread? Currently reading that, about 30% of the way through... up too post 521

r32_det Contributor

r32_det

Posted
Posted

are all r33 LCA's the same? i.e turbo/ non-turbo, coupe/sedan? how much difference do they make compared to standard ones? also to put the s14 steering rack in was there any modification required?

cheers

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted
Sedan to coupe defiantly are and I am confident non-turbo/turbo would be as well. Off the top of my head I think they add around a degree or so. Its a cheap alternative to camber arms to gain that extra bit in the front.

I've heard it's more like 3 deg camber gain

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...