Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am tired and not thinking very well but if you wheel is hitting something now (like LCA or chassis) knuckles will not solve the problem as your rim is already hitting with the limited lock. You need to figure out what and where is hitting so you can fix it.

If it is just the knuckle knob thing hitting LCA lock stop then yes, modifying knuckles and/or LCA will get you more lock but then you may run into other issues of hitting depending on offset, tyre etc.

My R33 knuckles are getting modified today by Nigel. Should have them in soon but the next drift day isn't till December for me to try them out :P

Edit. Forgot to mention Nigel also supplies spacers that help with binding issues. They aren't cheap but look like a must when wanting that extra lock.

Edited by gunmetalgrey

with 17x9 +30 and 235/45 and spacers i can almost guarentee u its on the chassis rails. not much u can do but go lower offset, smaller tyre, or longer LCA's (R33 etc).

nigels knuckles will lower the ackerman, as well as give u more lock, so to even consider getting the most lock out of those ur gonna have to go 17x9 +10ish

going to try and modify my current set, well the rears at least, making them 17x10 +12, which will allow me to run 25mm spacers up front to make the fronts 17x9 -1, this will give me tonnes of clearance up front.

with 17x9 +30 and 235/45 and spacers i can almost guarentee u its on the chassis rails. not much u can do but go lower offset, smaller tyre, or longer LCA's (R33 etc).

nigels knuckles will lower the ackerman, as well as give u more lock, so to even consider getting the most lock out of those ur gonna have to go 17x9 +10ish

looks like nigels knuckles and new rims. Stagea for sale BTW :)

Is it going to be doing damage to the rails?

looks like nigels knuckles and new rims. Stagea for sale BTW :)

Is it going to be doing damage to the rails?

nah not really, it's ur tyre rubbing, might make a bit of a mess of the thin metal at the seams that comes off the rails, but nothing structural.

Running 17x9 35+ ofset, 225 40 tyres, and rubs on chassis at full lock.

Thinking about r33 LCA's and lock spacers, or even just R33 LCA's.

But s14 rack sounds like a fun job!

:)

add some 25mm spacers and it'll be gravy

i got r33 LCA's tie rods with extra lock 7 deg castor 3 deg camber bumper steer adj running 17 x 9 +17 P1's with 235 /45 ku36's on front and got no probs with hitting anything and decent lock

pic below but obv not full lock got one somewhere will put up if i find

post-41809-1252977333_thumb.jpg

Edited by bcozican
This is a picture of one installed.

All the info you need about them is in this thread...amongst the 40 or so pages lol

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...823&st=1080

Hope you like reading.

Guessing that is the knuckle thread? Currently reading that, about 30% of the way through... up too post 521

are all r33 LCA's the same? i.e turbo/ non-turbo, coupe/sedan? how much difference do they make compared to standard ones? also to put the s14 steering rack in was there any modification required?

cheers

Sedan to coupe defiantly are and I am confident non-turbo/turbo would be as well. Off the top of my head I think they add around a degree or so. Its a cheap alternative to camber arms to gain that extra bit in the front.

I've heard it's more like 3 deg camber gain

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...