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Need More Lock On R32

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nisskid
nisskid

well first it's good to know exactly what's restricting lock. the steering rack only moves so far, the knuckles have a stopper which corresponds with a little tab on the LCA which stops lock, the tyre

nisskid
nisskid

stolen from ns, nice and simple:

Posted Images

Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)
  Quote
S13 / S14 rack apparently 10mm or so longer ... more lock

no, a s14 rack is longer then a 13 so yes more lock, but a r32 rack is a bit more longer then a s13 rack.

i know that the s13 has a better turning circle from factory specs compared to the r32 so that might have some thing to do with the wheelbase/ the different front suspension set up

Edited by Dan_J
snappy_ Proficient

snappy_

Posted
Posted

Okay my turning circle is farkin shithouse, my car isnt for the track or anything just something to get around in.

I have 17x9 +24 and im about to put r33 lcas, and should i get the spacers in there too?

will this setup scrub the rails at all?

oh and front is lowered 2.5inch if that helps too.

32_Dave Mentor

32_Dave

Posted
Posted (edited)

1. 33 LCA or s14 same thing

2. remove bump stop

2. 33 steering rack or s14 same thing

2. Gktech spacers some jap branded ones are bigger

3. Cut and shut steering rack 10-20mm forwards depending how game u are (corrects tie-rod angle)

4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit.

5. look into properly branded knuckles that correct suspension geomatry and dont f**k your ackerman.

and u will have something like this...

Image0200.jpg

Edited by 32_Dave
nsmo30tt Enthusiast

nsmo30tt

Posted
Posted (edited)
  32_Dave said:
1. 33 LCA or s14 same thing

2. remove bump stop

2. 33 steering rack or s14 same thing

2. Gktech spacers some jap branded ones are bigger

3. Cut and shut steering rack 10-20mm forwards depending how game u are (corrects tie-rod angle)

4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit.

5. look into properly branded knuckles that correct suspension geomatry and dont f**k your ackerman.

AND!

looks like it. if the arm isnt flat you need to get it as close to flat as possibly you will need to do some measuring etc. but its usually around 20mm or even as high as you can get the arm, you should also look into your rear geomatry, it will be f**ked at that height. check simons thread in DIY.

Thanks Dave.. not always easy to find someone who has done it and can actually help. I feel embaressed for asking this, but what exactly do you mean cut and shut.. even better got a pic of yours?

And sorry for being a bit slow with handling components, but when you say to redrill the the front LCA's are you meaning where the castor rods bolt in?? If not please let me know

Also is a S13 steering rack pointless and I should just sell it and buy a S14/R33 one?

Edited by 30edR32
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

cut and shut rack= rack steel mounts cut off and welded forward on the crossmember

redrill?= i guess u mean #2 ,grind the thing on ur front lca that looks like a V that ur tie rod ends hits ( or gets close to ) at full lock as wen u get too much lock it will foul on that stopping anymore lock. oops that for the s13, for the gts4 ( not sure if gts front lca are the same) u have this lil square block thats on an angle(i think thats the one as there isnt anything else there?), grind that down.

keep the s13 rack while u find the s14 one

the cut and shut is more for hardcore drifters

  Quote
4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit.

slander aint good, i hear there are great. also those knuckles are made to fix ackerman.

Edited by Dan_J
nsmo30tt Enthusiast

nsmo30tt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks Dan, I think I'll be looking out for s S14 rack and also I'm not going to keep the gts4 LCA's for long I'm on the look out for some S14 ones and I'll miss out on the cut and shut. I get what I'm grinding off, but I'll go jack my car up and have a look at my LCA's now to see what I'm redrilling as I'm still not 100% certain.. I'm sure it will become clear after I have a look.. or I'd hope so. Sorry I didn't make the re-drill question very clear I was going off this

  Quote
if ur car is low low you re-drill a hole higher then original to re-gain factory suspension geomatry.
from Dave.

Ok I didn't jack it up but from what I could see.. im confused so if anyone has pictures of what the re-drilled, that would be extremely helpful.

Not too sure how LCA's in my car look normally, but here is mine.. I hope its not meant to be flat.. (please excuse the bad phone pic)

mylca.jpg

Also another side question.. are these recomemnded?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/im...nTieRodEnds.jpg

Thanks

Edited by 30edR32
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

oh ok, the redrill will have to do with camber. this doesnt effect lock, just tyre wear and with extreme camber will cause understeer ( VIP style cars etc). some amount of front camber more then factory is good for turnin / oversteer( more front grip). you dont need to worry about it as it is fine the way it is for your street type set up. there are aftermarket ball joints that do the same thing as far as i know they are only for the rear lca.

as above, if the front lca where flat( stock ride height or the redrill method) u would have less camber as when u lower a car u get more camber aka the angled lca's as in your pic

you dont need them really as they dont give u any lock as far as i know..... putting washers ooops, i mean 'lock spacers' in your rack will give you more lock, they are just easier at times because they are adjustable

Edited by Dan_J
nsmo30tt Enthusiast

nsmo30tt

Posted
Posted (edited)

well would using "drop down tie rods" as in my link above increase handling at all or wear less than normal tie rod ends seening as theyre not at a angle. And surely someone must make drop down style ball joints.. but going the other way around obviously for the front LCA's or LCA's that have them built in

Edited by 30edR32
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted

no idea, i've never used them or read much about them ,but surely it'll be answered soon enough by another member.

here is the link to the trader that sells the camber correction ball joints, think they only do rear r33 stuff

www.importautoparts.com.au

http://www.forums.secretdrift.com.au/index...t=0&start=0

32_Dave Mentor

32_Dave

Posted
Posted (edited)
  30edR32 said:
Thanks Dave

nothing wrong with the s13 rack if its good condition

here is a pic of the xmember.

Image0101.jpg

can barely tell can ya. moved forward a good 15mm

  XRATED said:
Has anyone used the "powered by max/gtfactory" super steering angle kit on a 32 gtst?

yes, i designed my own based on these they are a little diffrent but as pic above u will get similar results

  Dan_J said:
cut and shut rack= rack steel mounts cut off and welded forward on the crossmember

redrill?

the cut and shut is more for hardcore drifters

slander aint good, i hear there are great. also those knuckles are made to fix ackerman.

cut and shut is a basic fabrication term for cut and re-weld.

redrill LCA piviot bolt do not re-drill castor that'll f**k the pickup point.

todd from SD, had powered by max, went to nigels and had more dramas, should of just kept the max ones.

Edited by 32_Dave
32_Dave Mentor

32_Dave

Posted
Posted
  30edR32 said:
Can i just grind the bump stop off.. and thanks for clearing that up.. didn't think doing the castor rod holes would have worked out.. you got a pic of yours redrilled anyway?

have not required to re-drill. car is just bellow flat at the front but must come up a tad. yeah just grind off the bump stop but make sure the rack isnt going 100% travel (therefore being its own bumpstop)

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yes grant....that is a perfect example of a car that is way too low and probably has f**ked geometery.

I think someone mentioned "drop down ball joints" above. You can get longer ones from fulcrum suspension, or we got ball joint spacers from Unique Autosports that move the lower arm mount 20mm which would help heaps. Top arm is still wrong though.

nsmo30tt Enthusiast

nsmo30tt

Posted
Posted (edited)
  Duncan said:
yes grant....that is a perfect example of a car that is way too low and probably has f**ked geometery.

I think someone mentioned "drop down ball joints" above. You can get longer ones from fulcrum suspension, or we got ball joint spacers from Unique Autosports that move the lower arm mount 20mm which would help heaps. Top arm is still wrong though.

Thanks Duncan... now I know where to get them I definitely will be getting some.

I have found these. Opinions?

They are adjustable for camber and have well what appears to be "drop down" ball joints

Front-Lower-Control-Arm-240sx-200sx-Silvia-S13-S14-S15-for-sale_320364888711.jpg

The only thing is they don't seem to have any brand.. and for $500 I'd prefer to buy something that is used and works well, anyone use anything like that?

Maybe they're okay.. driftworks and some others look exactly the same just different colours

Edited by 30edR32

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