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  • 2 weeks later...

i just finished reading that thread... 43 pages!!.. and it starts off with alot of guys knowing very little, and learning lots along the way.

from what i can understand..

-steering rack spacers increase lock by allowing the rack to move further before stopping..

-less offset = less inner wheel scrubbing... need guard rolling though.

-modifed knuckles change ackerman so the wheels at full lock are close to the same direction as well as changing the

leverage points for the steering, so turns lock to lock are reduced and steering is quicker and has more movement for the same lock to lock turns due to the smaller arc which the tie rod end moves in. can also change tie rod height so -tierod angle can remain parallel with the ground on a lowered car.

-notching chassis, moving castor rod, removing stoppers and hammering up the chassis lip all help to reduce scrubbing.

-longer lcas push wheel out further from scrub area... same effect as spacers, - offset wheels

-at extreme lock, tie rods go over centre and want to go the other way rather than coming back, called binding.. rack needs to be moved forward or nigels spacers fitted to tie rods.

-low profile, stretched tyres ftw!

so start with the basics and work your way up.. lots of castor, steering rack spacers and low offset wheels with small tyres to start with.

alot of guys have found Roll Centre Adjusters arent worth the money in a drift environment.. money better spent on modified knuckles. different for Grip though.. but the ackerman angle is different for Grip aswell.

cheers

Linton

Good summary.

My modified knuckles, cut lock stop LCA's and spacers are all in the car and aligned now. The lock is pretty incredible compared to stock. Won't get to test it at the track until December :cool:

A note that I made in that thread is that you will run out of adjustment on your toe on the skylines. Well I did anyway. I installed some Ikeya Formula toe rods and this fixed the issue. You also need regular rack spacers (5mm ones) when running Nigels rack spacers. If you buy Ikeya toe rods brand new (I got mine from JIS for $250) they come with a 7mm set supplied as they have a longer thread than stock.

i just finished reading that thread... 43 pages!!.. and it starts off with alot of guys knowing very little, and learning lots along the way.

from what i can understand..

-steering rack spacers increase lock by allowing the rack to move further before stopping..

-less offset = less inner wheel scrubbing... need guard rolling though.

-modifed knuckles change ackerman so the wheels at full lock are close to the same direction as well as changing the

leverage points for the steering, so turns lock to lock are reduced and steering is quicker and has more movement for the same lock to lock turns due to the smaller arc which the tie rod end moves in. can also change tie rod height so -tierod angle can remain parallel with the ground on a lowered car.

-notching chassis, moving castor rod, removing stoppers and hammering up the chassis lip all help to reduce scrubbing.

-longer lcas push wheel out further from scrub area... same effect as spacers, - offset wheels

-at extreme lock, tie rods go over centre and want to go the other way rather than coming back, called binding.. rack needs to be moved forward or nigels spacers fitted to tie rods.

-low profile, stretched tyres ftw!

so start with the basics and work your way up.. lots of castor, steering rack spacers and low offset wheels with small tyres to start with.

alot of guys have found Roll Centre Adjusters arent worth the money in a drift environment.. money better spent on modified knuckles. different for Grip though.. but the ackerman angle is different for Grip aswell.

cheers

Linton

pretty much yep, im still learning a lot about knuckles myself, but ill be doing a fair bit of experimentation with clearance as ill be trying to run 235/45's up front, which is basically unheard of there haha, that's 4x4 spec in their eyes.

What does all that mess do to bump steer, or don't drifters worry about things like that? :P Looks `orrible ;)

there are measures taken like spacers in both the knuckle end, and the rack end, that counter the bump steer u get from lowering ur car.

but u have to remember, unlike grip, drift isnt about numbers and a single goal, yes grip and ultimately speed is important, but gaining controllability and ability for angle sometimes overtakes small gains in grip to give a better overal result.

btw rally have been modifying knuckles in a similar way for ever, this is nothing new, just diff geometry.

Good summary.

My modified knuckles, cut lock stop LCA's and spacers are all in the car and aligned now. The lock is pretty incredible compared to stock. Won't get to test it at the track until December :thumbsup:

A note that I made in that thread is that you will run out of adjustment on your toe on the skylines. Well I did anyway. I installed some Ikeya Formula toe rods and this fixed the issue. You also need regular rack spacers (5mm ones) when running Nigels rack spacers. If you buy Ikeya toe rods brand new (I got mine from JIS for $250) they come with a 7mm set supplied as they have a longer thread than stock.

Have a go in november man! You got the skills! haha.

Do the Ikeya arms you got have the longer ball joint?

What does all that mess do to bump steer, or don't drifters worry about things like that? :P Looks `orrible :(

alot of the silvia guys are doing crazy things to get the ride heights that they do.. one guy is modifying his rear cradle and top hats so the geometry is the same at 60mm off the ground as it was when stock. there arew some very cluey guys on that forum. and you only have to look at the way their cars perform at their given duties to see that stretched tyres do work.. extemely low ride height can work, and r33 lca's do work.. there have been full arguments on here about all of those things yet the proof is in the pudding..

Have a go in november man! You got the skills! haha.

Do the Ikeya arms you got have the longer ball joint?

Can't remember if the actual ball joint was any longer but the thread coming out defiantly is allowing you to run the 7mm spacer no worries.

I have decided with how much it costs me to go to Winton the small amount of track time won't be worth it. Instead I got myself a unreal, super low trailer made up with the money. This should make attending a lot more track days in Victoria and interstate easy for next year. I will also hopefully be having a crack at DECA days as well now that I won't have to stuff around finding and paying for a dodgy trailer the week before an event.

When is your sil80 drifter going to making the journey to the track?

Edited by Habler
Can't remember if the actual ball joint was any longer but the thread coming out defiantly is allowing you to run the 7mm spacer no worries.

I have decided with how much it costs me to go to Winton the small amount of track time won't be worth it. Instead I got myself a unreal, super low trailer made up with the money. This should make attending a lot more track days in Victoria and interstate easy for next year. I will also hopefully be having a crack at DECA days as well now that I won't have to stuff around finding and paying for a dodgy trailer the week before an event.

When is your sil80 drifter going to making the journey to the track?

Sweet. Deca is Nov 7th! Get there!

Sil80 will still be a while away. All parties involved have been busy. We built the trailer and lots of other things since we decided to do it. Latest is that it's been stripped and we've ordered the first parts of the cage (main hoop and front legs) and then we'll go about bracing it all.

Where do you live? Are you regional vic?

Horsham in regional Vic. Far away from all the tracks and events :)

What about Dimboola drags? haha.

I know horsham well. I work for powercor so I'm up there a lot. I once spent 8 months working at the transmission station out on williams road.

Not really helpful I know, but this thread is one of the rare moments where I'm happy I have a 31. Fark the turning circle is good! Pisses over small cars like my n14 pulsar and pretty much anything I've driven.

Not hard to beat the N14 cos it's got drive shafts up front.

anyone here actually done the s13 steering rack in the r32??

all fits up pretty much from what Ive read ?? is quite easy ?

what is the benefits of that?? ive not heard of that one yet?? do tell!

what is the benefits of that?? ive not heard of that one yet?? do tell!

S13 / S14 rack apparently 10mm or so longer ... more lock

sits in r32's fine just have to rejig the powersteering lines abit

i need a new steering rack anyway as mine is leaking badly so will prob have a crack at getting s13 rack in with my extra lock tie rods lock should be off chops (for a r32 ha)

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