Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 SII front disc brake rotors

make a donation to the SAU >$40 and pay the frieght and they are yours.

Dimensions are:

30mm overall thickness, 10mm per side.

295mm diameter

54mm dish height.

Are they actually 30mm thick, measured with calipers? Are they perfectly flat or do they need machining? Any lip on the edge? How much is freight?

I used a micrometer [better than a vernier], there is no lip on them, I have no way of measuring any 'runout', however they sit flat on a laminated bench top.

I can find out about freight if you are interested.

Are they actually 30mm thick, measured with calipers? Are they perfectly flat or do they need machining? Any lip on the edge? How much is freight?

Just confirming, they are meant to start out at 30mm thick aren't they? Which implies that they are near new. If so, please give me a freight quote and I'll probably take them.

Ok, I'll get you a price on freight during my lunch hour [being in the country, I can nick home and grab them, get them weighed at the post office]. I'll sort it out.

I don't know if they are meant to be 30mm std, but they don't look worn, they came with the car [in the boot], DBA slotted's had been fitted. And considering that they are 10mm thick per side, and all measure the same, this indicates [to me] that they are as close to std thickness as you can go.

Just confirming, they are meant to start out at 30mm thick aren't they? Which implies that they are near new. If so, please give me a freight quote and I'll probably take them.

Been waiting for you to confirm that you have deposited the money???

Once this is done, I will check my account to verify and then post the goods...........

Just then verified with my bank, money is in, all OK. I will post the discs asap[today] .

Thanks for that.

Danny.

Prank I will get the $40 to you within the week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for ?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for  >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate modern almost all cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
    • Let's be wary though, if cranking is so far off, what else isn't set right? Are the dead times set right, voltage compensation etc?   It definitely sounds like it's cranking fuel issues, and holding flat to the floor is shutting them down, but I'm with Duncan that if nothing was changed in the ECU at all, and then this started, I'd be more thinking a leaking injector.   Do as Duncan said, drop the oil and make sure it's not full of fuel.
    • It actually means give it less throttle.
    • Yeah if the goal is to drive something then modifying a car is a bad idea.
    • Wowee! She looks like a major handful out there Pete!
×
×
  • Create New...