R33 Gts-t Series Ii Engine Jerks And Turns Off

[Fangz]

i was in 3rd gear siting on around 60k's and when i started to accelerate the engine jerked (like a chick trying to learn manual), lost power, makes like a popping sound and now it also turns off and when u try start it, it dies and it eventually starts after 6-8 tries

the anoying thing is it plays up, then drives normal for 5min then plays up again

also if it hepls, it only started doing this last night for about 30sec or so, i have driven about 50km today and it was perfect and tonight it was really bad i was lucky to make it home!

any ideas??

mods are: (stock bov)

power fc

nismo gtr pump

fmic

apexi pod

turbo back exhaust

turbosmart boost tap

thanks guys

[mosquitocoils]

My guess would be a fueling issue or spark issue. Was that pump installed recently/properly etc etc? Or has your power FC been fiddled with lately? It might be messing stuff up if it's sending the wrong signals now. Other than that I'd check your sparks/coil packs and all connections to them.

Although I just re-read your post and you mentioned a popping noise? Have you checked all your vacuum piping? Check all your IC piping and hoses and stuff too...

Not sure how much help I've been, but at least it might give you somewhere to start. Good luck mate, make sure you let us know how your hunt goes!

[mad082]

ok, well start with the obvious things, how old are your spark plugs? what gap are they? what type are they (copper, irridium, etc)?

[REDGTT]

99 percent of times Surging problems (Jerking) are fuel related.

Look at your fuel pump. Because misfiring is usually electrical or air leaks of some sort.

[Fangz]

spark plugs are copper and been in there for about 15,000k, i had irridium but the guys who dyno tuned the power fc said the spark was getting blown out so they replaced n gapped with copper and i also dropped in spitfire coil packs

the fuel pump is a tomei for a gtr, not a nismo, sorry!!

i have checked the fuel filter its clean, as is the regulator (no moisture in the vac line)

i didnt drive the car today, but i took it for a 15min drive and it was running perfect

so im gonna pull out the fuel pump n check the power wires and fuel pick up sponge thingo

just on another note, i cleaned my airflow meter and i noticed a lot of thick greasy oily crap in the inlet pipe after afm around the bov entry is that normal or related to my problem?

thanks for all the info so far guys!

[REDGTT]

spark plugs are copper and been in there for about 15,000k, i had irridium but the guys who dyno tuned the power fc said the spark was getting blown out so they replaced n gapped with copper and i also dropped in spitfire coil packs

the fuel pump is a tomei for a gtr, not a nismo, sorry!!

i have checked the fuel filter its clean, as is the regulator (no moisture in the vac line)

i didnt drive the car today, but i took it for a 15min drive and it was running perfect

so im gonna pull out the fuel pump n check the power wires and fuel pick up sponge thingo

just on another note, i cleaned my airflow meter and i noticed a lot of thick greasy oily crap in the inlet pipe after afm around the bov entry is that normal or related to my problem?

thanks for all the info so far guys!

Get some CRC contact cleaner and give it a good spray to clean it up. Will only improve things. Could be related.

[mad082]

yeah give it a clean. even if it doesn't fix it, it won't hurt to give it a clean.

as for your plugs, they are getting on a bit for coppers. so probably wouldn't hurt to throw a new set in as well

[Fangz]

Get some CRC contact cleaner and give it a good spray to clean it up. Will only improve things. Could be related.

yeah give it a clean. even if it doesn't fix it, it won't hurt to give it a clean.

as for your plugs, they are getting on a bit for coppers. so probably wouldn't hurt to throw a new set in as well

ok ill give it a go......i checked the contacts in the afm n harness and it looked like brand new

should keep me busy on my day off on thursday lol

[SL33K]

does the oil in the inlet pipe as Fangz described mean there is somethin Up with the Turbo?

[mad082]

does the oil in the inlet pipe as Fangz described mean there is somethin Up with the Turbo?

it depends. it can mean 3 things really. 1: the oil seal in the front of the turbo is shot (not good, but fixed by replacing the turbo and doesn't damage the engine or turbo). although it is common for there to be a very small amount of oil make it past the seal which is nothing to worry about. 2: the engine has some issues with oil coming through the breather hoses caused by blow by (also not too good). both of these issues will be accompanied by the oil level dropping between changes if it is bad enough. that brings us to number 3: the car has had either of the issues in the past, but is all good now and the oil is just there because the pipes weren't cleaned out after the issue was sorted.

[Fangz]

it depends. it can mean 3 things really. 1: the oil seal in the front of the turbo is shot (not good, but fixed by replacing the turbo and doesn't damage the engine or turbo). although it is common for there to be a very small amount of oil make it past the seal which is nothing to worry about. 2: the engine has some issues with oil coming through the breather hoses caused by blow by (also not too good). both of these issues will be accompanied by the oil level dropping between changes if it is bad enough. that brings us to number 3: the car has had either of the issues in the past, but is all good now and the oil is just there because the pipes weren't cleaned out after the issue was sorted.

as far as the past goes, i have had the car 5 1/2 years and its been really reliable and i have cleaned out all the pipes/intercooler/afm a while back. the breather has been blocked off as the hoses go into a catch can

how is blow by caused and fixed?? (if i have it)

i replaced the fuel filter and my prob went away for about a week or so. and all of a sudden it did it again (jerking n stalling) last friday night in peak hour traffic and hasnt done it since!! and i have driven to work everyday

ive noticed it only does this at night, like as if the cooler air makes it play up some how??

[Bitsushiti]

the anoying thing is it plays up, then drives normal for 5min then plays up again

I'd definitely say it's the AFM. My R33 S2 GTSt was doing the exact same thing. It was a real pain in the ass to diagnose as it was an intermittent problem that would always seem to behave itself whenever a mechanic was around.

The problem usually struck under acceleration at about 3krpm, just before boost. Sometimes it was fine and would pull to 7krpm without a problem, other times it would unexpectedly "cut-out" at 2 to 3krpm, as if the engine was suddenly completely shut off, which would catch me off guard and result in me being nearly being thrown over the steering wheel.

Take the AFM out, get a razorblade, cut the seal away from the plastic cover on it, open it up and resolder the plug connection. I did this with mine even though the solder on the plug looked fine and wasn't broken. Give it a generous blob of solder on each point, chuck the cover back on, re-yakfat it shut, reset your ECU and give it a go. It completely cured my problem.

It's easy enough to DIY, and there's a handy guide here on SAU with pics on how to do this if you need more info:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...-s-t113284.html

First post by the way, I'll get around to posting in the intro forum shortly

[Fangz]

I'd definitely say it's the AFM. My R33 S2 GTSt was doing the exact same thing. It was a real pain in the ass to diagnose as it was an intermittent problem that would always seem to behave itself whenever a mechanic was around.

The problem usually struck under acceleration at about 3krpm, just before boost. Sometimes it was fine and would pull to 7krpm without a problem, other times it would unexpectedly "cut-out" at 2 to 3krpm, as if the engine was suddenly completely shut off, which would catch me off guard and result in me being nearly being thrown over the steering wheel.

Take the AFM out, get a razorblade, cut the seal away from the plastic cover on it, open it up and resolder the plug connection. I did this with mine even though the solder on the plug looked fine and wasn't broken. Give it a generous blob of solder on each point, chuck the cover back on, re-yakfat it shut, reset your ECU and give it a go. It completely cured my problem.

It's easy enough to DIY, and there's a handy guide here on SAU with pics on how to do this if you need more info:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...-s-t113284.html

First post by the way, I'll get around to posting in the intro forum shortly

last night it happened again and i had the power fc on the sensor check screen

and guess what Bitsushiti your right! the afm voltage was .0 something and flashing. so i also say is definately the afm

mayb time for a z32 afm!!