Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PM sent mate..

I've just a cam installation.. Either way, the rocker has to come off, and you've got to get the cams reshimmed, even if you are swapping stock cams for stock cams..

I've got some mild type A cams for sale if you're keen. As said though, refer to your PM. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283685-rb25det-cams/#findComment-4772336
Share on other sites

I've got the TYPE A (aka stage 1) Poncams:

ECR33 Series 2 (RB25DET) - Duration: IN, EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm

Lift is same as stock but there is a bit more duration which gives you a bit more breathing/grunt across most of the rev range.

Not too sure what stock is, but I had to get another set for my R34 and I ended up getting 260's instead, which is what you'd call stage 2 (or type B).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283685-rb25det-cams/#findComment-4772793
Share on other sites

PM sent mate..

I've just a cam installation.. Either way, the rocker has to come off, and you've got to get the cams reshimmed, even if you are swapping stock cams for stock cams..

I've got some mild type A cams for sale if you're keen. As said though, refer to your PM. :banana:

Marco, Neos require shimming due to the solid lifters.

Normal 25s have hydraulic lifters which take up their own clearance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283685-rb25det-cams/#findComment-4773892
Share on other sites

Marco, Neos require shimming due to the solid lifters.

Normal 25s have hydraulic lifters which take up their own clearance.

Doh! Indeed they do, completely forgot about the lifters.

What he said! :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283685-rb25det-cams/#findComment-4774232
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...