Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

fark that car is outrageously quick if it only has 650hp...good work! its abolsutely killing those cars on the straights and still going thru the corners well.

well driven too

do you have more specs/info/pics of the car?

I think Power figures are Over quoted in Australia. The Dyno says more but the Turbo wont flow more than 650fwhp, Thats why I quoted the more real figure. The Engine ia an RB25, Stock head with Poncams, Greddy intake,6Boost manifold, Wolf V500 ECU, GT35 with small exhaust housing, CP pistons and Rev rods,All About 4 years old now, It started out in Hill climbs/Speedevents Also.Uses KW Coil overs and Arizona Zcar Willwood brakes, PPG gearbox

When we get the chassis right we will run an RB26/30 with a Spool 3.4 crank, Ive talked Steve into letting us sort handling before we fit it.

New Engine Package is around 900HP, As you can see Steve still has a bit to learn and we still have suspension issues so it can sit and wait.

My Son Jeff Built most of the car.

Some early Build pics here. http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg225/Stevethomas/

All co-incides when he clipped the ripple strip on the S bend. May have unsettled the car to lose traction, but looks like it may have caused the driver to give the accelerator an unintentional jab at that time.

Boost obviously comes on really hard, so balancing the grip and torque in the wet would no mean feat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...