Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing Ruzic Torque Split Controller

tricstar
 Share

Recommended Posts

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

got a Ruzic TSC , doesn't have much in the way of installation instructions.. I have done some work on my car Before eg, clutch, gearbox etc but nothing on the electronics side so could use some help with this one.....

most of the wiring looks to be straight forward, just match up the colours of the wires.. BUT I've pulled the dash, centre console and centre gauges, stereo etc to pieces, to connect wire to back of the front torque gauge to the + screw as described ( trying to follow instructions I found on here ) there is 4 screws with 3 of them marked os its not obvious which is the + one... is it the top right as I suspect.. ( when looking at the back of the gauge )..also is it ok to just tap into the stereo power + & - ,, as for the toggle switch can I use the aerial switch on the dash it only has two wires going to the back of it and the toggle switch only has two also, will that be ok ( the aerial has never worked but reception is fine )

If there is anyone in perth who has done this before and would be kind enough to come round and help or if anyone can just answer the questions above that would be awesome..........

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Try checking out this post for some tips if your still keen to try it yourself

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/As...ue-t266312.html

yeah thats the one I'm trying follow, lot easier when you have someone who's done it before with you......

I see he used the stereo power, I was just hoping there was somewhere more accessable...

cheers

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

The stereo power is right below the gauges (front torque split gauge) which I had to connect to, so I thought that was a logical place to get power from.

Good luck

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
paul (mountainrunner) is on these forums if you are stuck.

good buy :D

yeah he's just messaged me and said the best place to get the power is from the same place as ECU & also I think he said the wire to back of gauge is only needed for when you use external data logging !! just waiting for confirmation of that...will post up what I find out for others....

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok job done ...not exactly straight forward with those instructions and wiring diagram..firstly on all the paper work including the wiring diagram they refer to the G-sensor and then on the wiring table it starts talking about an Accelerometer ???? I asume that is is G-sensor ( if I'm wrong I've fkd it ) and also if you tap into the drivers side of the g-sensor plug (as these are wires the wiring diagram describes) then the Lateral G signal from G-sensor & lateral G signal out to computer-- are the wrong way round !!!!

anyway that was my experience ...... good luck to anyone having a go....icon9.gif

still haven't had a reply from mountainrunner, so I just took a punt and did it the way I thought made sense..

will test it out the track next weeksorcerer.gif

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

If you know how to improve the instructions I wrote please feel free to contribute, it wasn't a very difficult install but it could have been if I didn't get guidance from someone :down:

Yes, pretty sure accelerometer is the G-sensor located under the centre console in the R33/R32.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you know how to improve the instructions I wrote please feel free to contribute, it wasn't a very difficult install but it could have been if I didn't get guidance from someone :(

Yes, pretty sure accelerometer is the G-sensor located under the centre console in the R33/R32.

Certainly not criticizing your instructions, couldn't have done the job without them :blush:

as the unit doesn't come with any how to....

If I get time I might add some to your instruction tread..

cheers

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted (edited)

The product is obsolete or almost obsolete.

It's Paul's hobby and not really a mainstream business.

He only made a couple for enthusiasts so there was not enough profit to put a lot of R&D in the instruction.

I think he has been making a few more as requested but he is busy with other projects now.

I intalled mine and thought the instruction was fairly straight forward.

You should get a power source that is on when the key is ON and remains on during Start.

I wired up a relay switch from the ECU.

Edited by 9krpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looney_Head
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Looney_Head · Posted

      Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • GTSBoy
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      100% is gyprock, I agree. Slip of the keyboard. Haha! I left my indicator bulbs out to save a bit of weight.
×
×
  • Create New...