Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heya guys,

just want to know.. im thinking about taking my car to wakefield and i know that the stock r33 gtr turbos being cast wheels are very shit and tend to go when pushed..

my question is, what is a safe amount of boost to run 10 psi ??

its a stock engine.. just filters cat back exhaust apexi PFC. everything else is stock.

thanks in advance for your help. i just dont want to do any damage to my car.

thanks chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283780-need-help-from-you-skyline-gods/
Share on other sites

just want to know.. im thinking about taking my car to wakefield and i know that the stock r33 gtr turbos being cast wheels are very shit and tend to go when pushed..

my question is, what is a safe amount of boost to run 10 psi ??

The turbine wheels are ceramic and yeah they go pop. Mine did at 13psi with a very conservative 11.5 AFR tune, at Wakefield. Fortunately i could drive home - i hear to tow back to sydney is ~$800.

Anyways, the more boost the more risk, and if you're unlucky the motor can be destroyed when they go. So yeah, just run them at stock boost, and try and get some steel wheeled replacements as soon as you can. FWIW the stockers are supposed to be rebuilt every 100,000kms.

i have a high flow cat. 14.5 psi is what it is running.

this is going to be my first taking it on the track so i wont be going too crazy. i think ill just run it at 10 psi. and let it cool down every 15 mins ( as its 15 mins on the track at a time )

n1 oil pump and acl race bearings have been fitted also.

so yous are saying 10 psi will be safe ?

there is no way to guarantee what is safe and what isn't. I have run one R32 GTR on stock turbos at 14psi at lots of track days without problems. on the other side I know of plenty that died on their first track day at stock boost.

it's a risk. you might be fine, you might not. there is not way to tell. sure running less boost should improve your chances so keep it to 10 or 12psi would be a good idea. an oil cooler is a good idea too on any GTR going to the track and a proper oil pressure and oil temp gauge is handy too as the stock ones are pretty hopeless. keep the revs sensible (no need to rev a mild GTR past 7500 or even 7,000 really on track) and keep an eye on temps and you SHOULD be fine. no promises though.....

there is no way to guarantee what is safe and what isn't. I have run one R32 GTR on stock turbos at 14psi at lots of track days without problems. on the other side I know of plenty that died on their first track day at stock boost.

it's a risk. you might be fine, you might not. there is not way to tell. sure running less boost should improve your chances so keep it to 10 or 12psi would be a good idea. an oil cooler is a good idea too on any GTR going to the track and a proper oil pressure and oil temp gauge is handy too as the stock ones are pretty hopeless. keep the revs sensible (no need to rev a mild GTR past 7500 or even 7,000 really on track) and keep an eye on temps and you SHOULD be fine. no promises though.....

ahh sweet thanks for the info... like i said its my first time on the track i wont be going to crazy as i will only be just learning the limits of the car. ill run about 12 psi.. and as i have no oil cooler or anything. i will just take it easy and enjoy myself.

thanks for all the info guys ( just cross your fingers for me ) lol...

im going to wakefield on the 29th i think.. the end of this month, so ill let use know how i go.

thanks again for the help !! :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not!
    • So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years).   Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake.  This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.
    • Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.
    • You wouldn't get away with saying the opposite, if you were there.
    • Do some wool fluff testing on the vents
×
×
  • Create New...