Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what's involved in doing a pump r and r in an R32 GTR with the engine in? doable within reason? those reimax gears look the goods.

you wouldn't do it...seriously, pulling the donk and doing it properly is a piece of cake. Id hate to see your anguish after seeing the sump leaking after trying to do it in the car only to go through the process again to try and fix leaking again.

Shanef ,can you elaborate on the powertune gears? are these sh1t ?

I wouldnt say they are shit, they are however made of a low grade material. They have a nice CNC machined finished aswell.

Saying that, in my view they can be improved upon in many ways :D.

too late shane, whats the reason behind that though?

I threw the stock on in the bin, shit :D

they are a saw tooth gear design...not a gerotor like other RB pumps. Saw tooth pumps are less prone to breaking due to harmonic vibration.

Hey Paul, i was almost set on getting a Tomei pump for my 2530 , there like high $1600's delivered (well they were 2 days ago, now 1750.... but the dollar is set to climb apparently.)

Do you seriously reccomend a Nitto over one of these ? If so what can you do one for ?

Gary

Wow a lot more response than I thought,

I can see there is a lot of banter about N1, I agree any pump will fail due to serious abuse, but how often do you hear of any Greddy, Jun, Tomei, Nismo etc pumps just randomly failing even when not abused? Before I rebuilt the RB25 it had 6 times more abuse at similar and higher RPM than this N1 and the stock pump held just fine even with the crap 1/4 depth pump drive.

I am surprised no one has commented on the Nismo pump considering it is in the middle of the price range.

I am thinking about doing some testing on the materials used in as many of the pumps I can fidn, does anyone have any old parts of inner and/or outer ring's they would like to mail me (only need 10-15mm of each each), get a good profile of all the different pumps?

Hey Paul, i was almost set on getting a Tomei pump for my 2530 , there like high $1600's delivered (well they were 2 days ago, now 1750.... but the dollar is set to climb apparently.)

Do you seriously reccomend a Nitto over one of these ? If so what can you do one for ?

Gary

Reslo bought, or is buying the last one from the group buy...around $500 cheaper than the Tomei pump. The Nitto gears are designed and manufactured in Germany and are made from superior material than any other OEM style pump. If Reslo pulls out of the sale the last one is yours, if not ill contact the group buy supplier to see if they will do another lot of 5 pumps at the reduced price.

Edited by DiRTgarage
fark me, i took the cover off to have a look as well and being a noob though the saw design looked pretty rubbish

might go cry myself to sleep

back on topic

same design the tomei pump is based on, hence its awesomeness

Reslo bought, or is buying the last one from the group buy...around $500 cheaper than the Tomei pump. The Nitto gears are designed and manufactured in Germany and are made from superior material than any other OEM style pump. If Reslo pulls out of the sale the last one is your, if not ill contact the group buy supplier to see if they will do another lot of 5 pumps at the reduced price.

why do they need to be made in Germany? Its not like there arent any machines here in australia that can't do the job. You don't even use a bloody conventional CNC to do them properly.

plus all (from what i've seen) aftermarket pump housings are shitty cast housings, f**k me they'd only cost ~600 to make

or is Germany code for Taiwan?

Reslo bought, or is buying the last one from the group buy...around $500 cheaper than the Tomei pump. The Nitto gears are designed and manufactured in Germany and are made from superior material than any other OEM style pump. If Reslo pulls out of the sale the last one is yours, if not ill contact the group buy supplier to see if they will do another lot of 5 pumps at the reduced price.

Just awaiting shipping prices :D

reZlo

Ok, thanks Paul, let me know.

Just out of curiosity, assuming money wasn't a consideration, would you pick the tomei over any other ?

So the Tomei uses a Saw tooth design ? Anyone got any nice pics to show of one open ?

Also for the guru's..... whats the disadvantage of the saw tooth design ?? I ask as i assume the newer gerotor design is better somehow since nissan swapped to them. (from a factory motor point of view not racing)

Gary

Ok, thanks Paul, let me know.

Just out of curiosity, assuming money wasn't a consideration, would you pick the tomei over any other ?

So the Tomei uses a Saw tooth design ? Anyone got any nice pics to show of one open ?

Also for the guru's..... whats the disadvantage of the saw tooth design ?? I ask as i assume the newer gerotor design is better somehow since nissan swapped to them. (from a factory motor point of view not racing)

Gary

Saw tooth or not ive seen what a Nitto pump is capable of...im not gambling on other brands when i know i don't need to. Id buy a Nitto over a Tomei.

Gerotor pumps are more efficient in working, but easily damaged from foreign material running through them, whilst gear pumps (saw tooth types) can easily pass crap and not get damaged (too badly)....they are more forgiving and genereally more reliable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • have you rotated the car yet? if so how smooth was it?
    • And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR
    • The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket.  As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness)   and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done  
    • OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95  and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission.   From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)  
    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
×
×
  • Create New...