Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Furthermore everyone should dry sump without question regardless of their needs or requirement as risk is not good.

problem with a dry sump setup is cost - for something decent you are looking at up to 7k

Ofcourse every oil pump is a risk. But we dont log on here to see every couple of months a comment about how my std oil pump just killed my motor, or my (insert brand name here) pump just shat itself...its always the N1 pumps that come up either on here, or in conversation/passing comment or someone at the track blows one up.

Its obvious the risk is higher using one, its virtually the point of this thread. Hearing one bad story should be enough. It was for me, except ive been exposed to multiple, whether on here or at the track. Im sure alot of people who have seen this thread will agree with myself and the others who share the same opinion about N1 pumps.

Its simple. You get whatever puts your mind at ease and fits in with your budget.

Dry sumps all round for everybody.....hooray :P

Edited by r33_racer

guys loosing sleep over the pumps go and buy the reinik (edit reimax... still getting used to name change) gears. they are very highly regarded in japan and folks smarter than me have been using them in aus with great success. they may not be jumping up and down telling everyone about it, but the price is right, they have the research behind them to back up their product and that should be the end of your oil pump problems.

If you're spending 7k on a dry sump setup you're spending too much.

nitto would be my choice, crd has been exposed to all oil pumps available and i trust the opinion of a man who started modifying gtr's when we were all still playing with matchbox cars and smashing them with hammers to simulate an accident

dry sump for me is overkill for a weekend warrior

guys loosing sleep over the pumps go and buy the reinik (edit reimax... still getting used to name change) gears. they are very highly regarded in japan and folks smarter than me have been using them in aus with great success. they may not be jumping up and down telling everyone about it, but the price is right, they have the research behind them to back up their product and that should be the end of your oil pump problems.

Where are these available from?

I still think the best fix would be a splined collar/gear.

Where are these available from?

I still think the best fix would be a splined collar/gear.

Cheapest Reimax gear set i can find so far is 670 au + del. through Greenline.

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct...&fromlink=1

It probably is best value for $$$ if you are planning on taking your engine to pieces or in the build stage.

Edited by Alf
Lookin forward to these new gears!

would they work on a stock pump? or does the stock pump not provide enough pressure?

say compared to a n1?

They can be made to suit a stock pump, but these first ones are going to be for the N1 pump.

Pump selection should be left upto the engine builder.

I to had a n1 let go on e and decided to go external pump

i have had no probles since and thrash it of limeter all day at the track and the cost was not to bad

$1000 for peterson single stage pump

$200 for mandrel for the crank

$200 for speedflow fittings

and 1 day in the gargae making a bracket for the pump

This is the way to go imo

I to had a n1 let go on e and decided to go external pump

i have had no probles since and thrash it of limeter all day at the track and the cost was not to bad

$1000 for peterson single stage pump

$200 for mandrel for the crank

$200 for speedflow fittings

and 1 day in the gargae making a bracket for the pump

This is the way to go imo

That's under valuing it a bit to say the least. Add another $600 and ur closer to the mark you woulda spent. (not saying u didnt spend that but just adding this so everyone doesn't jump to the conclusion it only costs $1400 to do a complete external oil pump setup)

Shane, are there different thickness N1 gears? I remember getting confused when I last looked at the Reimax ones

There are indeed my good friend. So what we'll have to do is the person after a set will have to specify what thickness gears they are after.

Group buy thread here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ts-t285926.html

There are indeed my good friend. So what we'll have to do is the person after a set will have to specify what thickness gears they are after.

Group buy thread here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ts-t285926.html

Cool, I'll try get my oil pump off this weekend and confirm thickness.

FWIW, here are some parts numbers that I came up with and pricing for an external oil pump kit. I only really needed to find someone to make a bracket for the pump itself, most of the parts are there minus the hosing and belt. Might be a couple of extra fittings required depending on where / how you wanted to mount it.

post-20486-1251791626_thumb.jpg

Some of the prices may have changed since I did it (about 4 months ago)

FWIW, here are some parts numbers that I came up with and pricing for an external oil pump kit. I only really needed to find someone to make a bracket for the pump itself, most of the parts are there minus the hosing and belt. Might be a couple of extra fittings required depending on where / how you wanted to mount it.

post-20486-1251791626_thumb.jpg

Some of the prices may have changed since I did it (about 4 months ago)

JWAuto are doing CNC brackets...their work is incredible...the same CNC machinist 888 Racing use. Top shelf stuff. They are doing the brackets in a kit only though...im doing a group buy on them as soon as they are ready. I saw one of their VL CNC'd rocker covers to suit single cam engines running roller rockers...porno! Ill see if i can get a pic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cleaner signal so timing is more accurate at all rpm also found it to start more on first rotation but could also be I've nailed prime and crank fuel. For under $400 and 30mins of your time, its a good solution especially once the optical sensor does start to play up you won't notice it until in higher rpm and it heat soaks.
    • On a 400hp RB, what benefits other than "it's not 30+ years old" are you seeing from the NZ Wiring Kit trigger setup? If it were me going to change triggering, my belief would be to go for a crank trigger to remove the issues caused by what people claim is belt stretch etc, but that's from my understanding a much larger issue for super high power, rather than those in the 400hp and below club.
    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
×
×
  • Create New...