Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well....why did the pump you see die? I am yet to be convinced there is some basic issue with n1 oil pumps.

they get used in lots (most?) builds?

those motors get treated very hard (otherwise why did the owner spend 5-15K to build it?)

anything goes wrong in the bottom end...first place a bit goes to is the tight clearance oil pump. put any shit through it and it breaks.

once the pump breakes due to the other problem the whole motor dies very soon after.

first thing you find when you pull a motor apart is a broken oil pump.

bottom line is....finding the *real* reason a motor dies is very very complex. oil pumps do not often die on their own but they are very often the first symptom of the real problem

It's usually always the same story......

No aftermarket harmonic balancer and/or rev limiter pump shock. This pump died from both at launch......broken inner gear.

Edited by JD74
as long as you dont smash the limiter you will be fine

heres one with gears broken

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/104505-n1-oil-pump-tomei.html

have a look around on the site you'll find more, and race pace had a couple break gears due to limiter bashing

i only got the tomei one cause im paranoid and a dry sump setup for me is over kill

just read that thread in the uk, it had only done 625km and looks like it had other issues that caused the failure.

been limiter bashing(7500) mine for three years now, hope it holds out for another three.

that....or you could give them a call and ask? 02 9648 4264

JD74 - as per duncans post & my original suggestion a lot earlier in the piece...pick up the phone & call the above number.

reason not many people know about this pump is because it is tried & proven, simple as that.

who cares if it was even made in india or vietnam at the end of the day, it is a great pump :)

if it can chew through bits of cast block that should compel you right?

My N1 pump has eaten something (scoring on the gears, probably left over thrust washer ;)) and not broken. Not happy with the wear on the drive face though. Personally I think it's a clearance issue as to why they break, aswell as others. If you look through that linked thread you'll find that the guy that broke the Jun pump was also using a beat up stock balancer.. poor drive clearances and shitty balancer = broken pump? seems like we're going over the same ground again..

JD74 - why dont you do the smart thing?

ring/email CRD and fken ask rather than harp on like a child?

Well, because up untill now NO ONE seemed to even know where they came from......even after I asked a few times.

Harp on like a child ? gimme a break.

I saw user CRD reading this thread and STILL not jumping in. What gives ?

Is CRD really NITTO ? Are NITTO parts really 'Jun Jobber Parts' that are resold under the NITTO brand ? .....sure looks that way to me.

HHmm....people are 'sourcing pumps through CRD'.....

I still can't get a straight answer and what's even more funny, the people that purchased these pumps don't even know for sure.

People are quick to jump to their...ehem...'THEIR' defence, when in reality......noone even knows who THEY are.

Thanks for the info......and thanks for calling me a child.

And the Google comment ? IT'S THE 21ST CENTURY. IF YOU CAN NOT BE FOUND ON GOOGLE, THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG.

I'm done.

Well, because up untill now NO ONE seemed to even know where they came from......even after I asked a few times.

Harp on like a child ? gimme a break.

I saw user CRD reading this thread and STILL not jumping in. What gives ?

Is CRD really NITTO ? Are NITTO parts really 'Jun Jobber Parts' that are resold under the NITTO brand ? .....sure looks that way to me.

HHmm....people are 'sourcing pumps through CRD'.....

I still can't get a straight answer and what's even more funny, the people that purchased these pumps don't even know for sure.

People are quick to jump to their...ehem...'THEIR' defence, when in reality......noone even knows who THEY are.

Thanks for the info......and thanks for calling me a child.

And the Google comment ? IT'S THE 21ST CENTURY. IF YOU CAN NOT BE FOUND ON GOOGLE, THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG.

I'm done.

Hey mate I feel your pain! Sometimes it can be like getting blood out of a stone...

FWIW

According to Godzilla Motorsport Nitto (Nitto Performance Engineering) is Croydon Racing Developments (CRD) own brand

found that with GOOGLE :D

Hey mate I feel your pain! Sometimes it can be like getting blood out of a stone...

FWIW

According to Godzilla Motorsport Nitto (Nitto Performance Engineering) is Croydon Racing Developments (CRD) own brand

found that with GOOGLE :P

Thanks man....... Your Google-Fu is stronger than mine ;)

I'm buying a Reimax anyways.....because it takes more than an upgraded Gear and a Jun Pump Housing to get my money.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive just spent a few hours reading every bit of this post and it was extremly informative

Problem was I was chasing info and opinions on the Reimax complete oil pump (not just the gears) and as soon as someone mentioned it ....... no more posts, what a crack up, I pissed myself laughing

Anyway what do people think? http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

The company certinly has the credentials

http://ganesh-cf.livejournal.com/16558.html

3791064180_9876a9eb57.jpg

Edited by lcgtr
Ive just spent a few hours reading every bit of this post and it was extremly informative

Problem was I was chasing info and opinions on the Reimax complete oil pump (not just the gears) and as soon as someone mentioned it ....... no more posts, what a crack up, I pissed myself laughing

Anyway what do people think? http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

The company certinly has the credentials

http://ganesh-cf.livejournal.com/16558.html

3791064180_9876a9eb57.jpg

i see your Reimax and raise you a newly released Nitto pump with billet rear cover for added strength.

RB_OIL_PUMP_v2.pdf

i see your Reimax and raise you a newly released Nitto pump with billet rear cover for added strength.

billet rear cover u say paul, so a full billet housing must be pretty good then huh? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...