N1 Oil Pump - Epic Fail

[R31Nismoid]

i currently run 20-60w in my engine but i question the oil pressure as its almost off the clock...on cold start up it reads 7bar and once warm reads 4bar when on idle, should i consider 10-40w as suggested by my engine builder? bearing clearance is 2thou

then again, oil pressure is my friend as it seems

Almost off the clock?

pfft - mine is soo far north of the end point it hits the gauge stoppper (over 8), but then it is a Racepace motor, they all are high.

[Marko R1]

ok - sounds like i have nothing to worry about then with running a thicker grade, thanks

[Swiper the Fox]

Paul you notice much drop in oil pressure if you open up conrod side clearances? Or you think the drop would be negligible?

its neglible...think about when a bearing is spun, the conrod thrust is not much of a restriction on flow as oil pressure plummets.

i cannot get my head around why this is being viewed in a ngegative light. Anyone who really knows and or builds these engines would see this as a bonus...Ash's post backs this up.

Edited November 2, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[Beer Baron]

my only question is if the pumps are made in australia why does the distributor claim they are made in germany? and pages before that someone claimed they were made in china or taiwan? I couldn't really give a crap where they are made but it would be good for guys who are selling them to at least all be saying the same thing.

hell I might even buy one for one of my engines.

though I'm still waiting on shanef's splined gears...... come on shane!!!

[Beer Baron]

I've got absolutely no issue with n1 blocks being manufactured in china, in fact I would very much welcome it.

nissan has not been casting n1 blocks for at least 5 years and globally all old stock has pretty much disappeared.

If Nissan is going not going to supply new blocks where will we get them from? Good luck to anyone that has gone to the effort of casting them, I'll take 5.

I haven't had trouble getting new N1 blocks in japan recently? or compelte N1 motors for that matter. direct from nissan. I think this whole no block making for 5 years must be a rumour. either that or they had stacks upon stacks of them sitting around waiting. can still buy one today if needed. either block or long motor. N1, N1 Nur or even standard 05U. pick one.

[r33_racer]

its neglible...think about when a bearing is spun, the conrod thrust is not much of a restriction on flow as oil pressure plummets.

i cannot get my head around why this is being viewed in a ngegative light. Anyone who really knows and or builds these engines would see this as a bonus...Ash's post backs this up.

I was only curious as others have said that oil pressure can drop if you open up side clearances too much as it escapes more quickly...But if you had enough flow, such as that provided from any of these aftermarket pumps (especially nitto) it wouldnt really matter as the pump will more then likely outflow what could be lost through these bigger clearances.

I thought RB's needed higher oil pressure to help prevent big ends from grabbing due to the cranks being cross drilled, rather then straight shoot like most aftermarket race cranks...the usual centrifugal forces trying to stop oil reaching the big end as crank rpm increases, generally more evident in higher revving RB's.

[shanef]

my only question is if the pumps are made in australia why does the distributor claim they are made in germany? and pages before that someone claimed they were made in china or taiwan? I couldn't really give a crap where they are made but it would be good for guys who are selling them to at least all be saying the same thing.

hell I might even buy one for one of my engines.

though I'm still waiting on shanef's splined gears...... come on shane!!!

they are close!!!

[SimonR32]

pressure is just the resistance to the flow of oil...simple stuff really.

only if the force behind the flow is constant

[Swiper the Fox]

only if the force behind the flow is constant

exactly...as flow increases the pressure increases if the restriction and oil viscosity are the same.

[W0rp3D]

Had a search but surprisingly could not find a single thread about rebuilding these oil pumps, given the price of them i would have thought that some one would have done it.

Also is there any way to test and oil pump that is off an engine, picked up and engine with a bottom end rattle and another good bottom end to go with it, problem is that the only oil pump that came with it is on the engine with the bottom end rattle.

[R32 Driver]

Just replace the gear with a replacement gear?

problem is they have different designs (thickness) and its not constant so its not 1 gear fits all

[JD74]

i just had a call from jim @ crd...we can finally put this to rest!

jim was heavily involved in the development of what he calls "the ultimate pump" for the rb, some compare it to tomei, jun etc...from this they decided to release a 2010 version which now includes a billet backing plate, the main reason for this is to give it a point of difference from the japanese competitors. he said its like buying a newer version commodore i.e. change the bumpers, headlights etc. simple aesthetic updates to pick up the anti. mechanically, it does not improve the car what so ever which brings me to the next point...he couldn't justify pulling out a 2009 version nitto pump & replacing it with a 2010 as only the headlights have changed so to speak. there is no advantage nor a requirement to run a billet backing plate BUT it sets itself apart from the rest & its another tick in the box, makes sense to me.

100's customers are using the cast backing plate with not 1 failure to date - perfect record!

the pump is competitively priced which also makes it the clear winner!

lastly, the nitto oil pump is MADE IN AUSTRALIA & as jim quotes, "we have some of the best engineers in the world, just look at what else is made here for these cars: gear sets & ecu's"

we even have the best tuner here in australia

LOL......

Why was 'The Ultimate Pump' created using a Jun 'jobber' Pump Housing ? I think during Jim's 'heavy involvment' he should have asked Shanef for a copy of his CAD file for his new pump housing with EXTERNAL pressure relief adjustment availability.

Let's face facts here.

1) The 'NEW' Billet back plate serves nothing more than as a 'name' plate and is a plucebo at best because housings DO NOT flex and to make this statement true (flex) the inner gears would have to be constantly bashing up the inside of the pump, breaking things....get it ?

2) It's an old housing with a new gear. The only thing 'different' is their marketing. Other Aus & NZ companies have done it as well, using Nissan housings rather than Jun.....and did it first.

3) Until NITTO have a website (not the tyre guys either).....they are a worldwide NOBODY.

As a side note, I saw a Nitto pump sell on Ebay the other day for $900 AUD.........

My thoughts are.....SHANEF's Housing machined to fit Reimax 85mmx12mm Gears will be THE ULTIMATE.

[Marko R1]

you are entitled to your opinion - go with your heart & buy suits your project

end of the day does it really matter what pump you use, no.

if your pump breaks though, you wont be happy & nitto have a clean record...the thing has chewed up bits of a cast block - case closed IMO

[bubba]

My thoughts are.....SHANEF's Housing machined to fit Reimax 85mmx12mm Gears will be THE ULTIMATE.

I think the splined gears that Shanef is making up will be the ULTIMATE oil pump setup... none of this two drive flats shit.

[STATUS]

i currently run 20-60w in my engine but i question the oil pressure as its almost off the clock...on cold start up it reads 7bar and once warm reads 4bar when on idle, should i consider 10-40w as suggested by my engine builder? bearing clearance is 2thou

then again, oil pressure is my friend as it seems

i would drop to a thinner oil, the pressure is not the issue but the extra loading on the crank flats and pump rotors is what im concerned with... especially cold starts with a 20w-60

[dazmo]

LOL......

Why was 'The Ultimate Pump' created using a Jun 'jobber' Pump Housing ? I think during Jim's 'heavy involvment' he should have asked Shanef for a copy of his CAD file for his new pump housing with EXTERNAL pressure relief adjustment availability.

Let's face facts here.

1) The 'NEW' Billet back plate serves nothing more than as a 'name' plate and is a plucebo at best because housings DO NOT flex and to make this statement true (flex) the inner gears would have to be constantly bashing up the inside of the pump, breaking things....get it ?

2) It's an old housing with a new gear. The only thing 'different' is their marketing. Other Aus & NZ companies have done it as well, using Nissan housings rather than Jun.....and did it first.

3) Until NITTO have a website (not the tyre guys either).....they are a worldwide NOBODY.

As a side note, I saw a Nitto pump sell on Ebay the other day for $900 AUD.........

My thoughts are.....SHANEF's Housing machined to fit Reimax 85mmx12mm Gears will be THE ULTIMATE.

ROTFL

Edited November 12, 2009 by dazmo

[Beer Baron]

people talk alot about the nitto clean record of no failures but to be fair N1 pumps have been on sale for nearly 20 years, Jun for about 13 or so and most of the other jap pumps at least 10. reimax (reinik) over 15 years too. so you would expect in that time some would get f**ked and quite possibly due to user or installer error not necessarily due to pump fault. though I'd wager there were/are faulty pump as well. nitto pumps have been on sale about 1 or 2 years and have sold no doubt much, much, much less than any of the others so it would make sense there are less (apparently none) failures. I'm not saying they are not a great pump. but saying we've had no failures sounds impressive, but if you've only sold 100 of them then it looks less so. if you've sold 10s of thousands like the nissan N1 pumps then it will be remarkable!!

I'm still holding out for the splined gears. the nitto pump is a very viable option and seems good value too. other than that I'm still a fan of the reimax gears in your old N1 housing or stock housing.

[lcgtr]

Nitto now has a website Ive found

http://www.nitto.com.au/products/oilpump-R...ory=engineblock

[XRATED]

I think the splined gears that Shanef is making up will be the ULTIMATE oil pump setup... none of this two drive flats shit.

I hope so!

people talk alot about the nitto clean record of no failures but to be fair N1 pumps have been on sale for nearly 20 years, Jun for about 13 or so and most of the other jap pumps at least 10. reimax (reinik) over 15 years too. so you would expect in that time some would get f**ked and quite possibly due to user or installer error not necessarily due to pump fault. though I'd wager there were/are faulty pump as well. nitto pumps have been on sale about 1 or 2 years and have sold no doubt much, much, much less than any of the others so it would make sense there are less (apparently none) failures. I'm not saying they are not a great pump. but saying we've had no failures sounds impressive, but if you've only sold 100 of them then it looks less so. if you've sold 10s of thousands like the nissan N1 pumps then it will be remarkable!!

I'm still holding out for the splined gears. the nitto pump is a very viable option and seems good value too. other than that I'm still a fan of the reimax gears in your old N1 housing or stock housing.

I'll provide plenty of feedback and testing back to back with an origional N1 pump, when I get my "shanef" gear set installed. I have the perfect rb25 in a 32 test bed... and a 26 crank-rods-piston set waiting to go in when/if it blows.

[KB240RB]

Is it possible to take the N1 Pump apart and take the old gear to a machine shop and have a new stronger gear made?