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N1 Oil Pump - Epic Fail

Rezlo

By Rezlo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted

Don't understand why people won't spend an extra $500-$700 on a better pump rather than play oil pump roulette... I will build mine to last the hard time I want to give it not baby it because I am too much of a tight ass.

ive smashed an n1 pump - now using nitto!

n1 is like that movie fatal attraction

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Marko R1
Marko R1

fuel cut explains the massive flames that gtr's shoot out on the limiter - most gtr's u will see in japan run this way. so my guess is that fuel cut is acceptable but not sure if its better or worse t

zebra
zebra

errr....might want to re-read what you just wrote Marko. No fuel = no flames

JonnoHR31
JonnoHR31

same shit for an oil pump, engine is still stopping and starting in the same way. the only difference would be between different ecu's, for example, a stocker rb30e ecu cuts fuel to all cylinders when

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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

No pump is safe from being destroyed if you limiter bash. Even Tomei's can be killed.

spending more is not necessarily 100% fail proof due to the pump design!

Did not say it was 100% fail proof, but given the choice I do not see why anyone would go with an N1 considering their record. I would spend more (on a Nitto, Tomei, etc) to know that is was a 100% improvement over an N1.

And if you want to (or be safe from accidental) limiter bashing then go an external for slightly more coin.

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted

fuel cut explains the massive flames that gtr's shoot out on the limiter - most gtr's u will see in japan run this way. so my guess is that fuel cut is acceptable but not sure if its better or worse than ignition cut?

  • Nope 1
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

fuel cut explains the massive flames that gtr's shoot out on the limiter - most gtr's u will see in japan run this way. so my guess is that fuel cut is acceptable but not sure if its better or worse than ignition cut?

errr....might want to re-read what you just wrote Marko.

No fuel = no flames

  • Like 1
RB30 Ceffy Enthusiast

RB30 Ceffy

Posted
Posted

Its been mentioned before so many times. But the clearance on the drive and pump is a problem in my opinion.

If you take a N1 pump gear and slide it over a R34 crank ir jun collar, there is .006" clearance each side. .012 total! It rattles like crazy when limiter is being hit. As mentioned just above. when limiter is reached the crank has to slow down before fuel is added to complete the combustion cycle. A loose crank/collar to pump is just smashing in there when its on the limiter. Every N1 pump or most pumps that have failed, crack right at the flat corner and then the rest is history.

Now i know im not the only person that figured this out. I have made new collars with .001" clearance each flat for a total of .002". Slips right on no problem but it doesnt have that loose fit like all the nissan cranks and Jun collars out there. i've gone through about 20 of them now with N1 pumps selling them to friends and stuff and not one problem yet.

Just look at this picture. Every crank you pull out looks like this. Its just retarded! the drive only has 3/16" contact. Crazy!

latepumpdrive.jpg

Ive seen almost every brand of pump brake. Looked at all the pictures people post up after and I always see the crank look like that.

Collar I made up. Just gotta flont the piece, lol. Im not saying there isn't a design flaw, but there is this one issue that is easily taken care of.

4580195670_3093230705_o.jpg

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

Would spark cut be easier on an oil pump than fuel cut?

same shit for an oil pump, engine is still stopping and starting in the same way. the only difference would be between different ecu's, for example, a stocker rb30e ecu cuts fuel to all cylinders when you hit 6200 and then cuts back in at around ~5800. a power fc randomly cuts cylinders to hold the motor at the set rev limit.

  • Like 1
SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Its been mentioned before so many times. But the clearance on the drive and pump is a problem in my opinion.

If you take a N1 pump gear and slide it over a R34 crank ir jun collar, there is .006" clearance each side. .012 total! It rattles like crazy when limiter is being hit. As mentioned just above. when limiter is reached the crank has to slow down before fuel is added to complete the combustion cycle. A loose crank/collar to pump is just smashing in there when its on the limiter. Every N1 pump or most pumps that have failed, crack right at the flat corner and then the rest is history.

Now i know im not the only person that figured this out. I have made new collars with .001" clearance each flat for a total of .002". Slips right on no problem but it doesnt have that loose fit like all the nissan cranks and Jun collars out there. i've gone through about 20 of them now with N1 pumps selling them to friends and stuff and not one problem yet.

Just look at this picture. Every crank you pull out looks like this. Its just retarded! the drive only has 3/16" contact. Crazy!

latepumpdrive.jpg

Ive seen almost every brand of pump brake. Looked at all the pictures people post up after and I always see the crank look like that.

Collar I made up. Just gotta flont the piece, lol. Im not saying there isn't a design flaw, but there is this one issue that is easily taken care of.

4580195670_3093230705_o.jpg

No doubt it's a shit design...

Good on you for trying to overcome the issue!

My beef has always been the fact that there is only 2 surfaces driving the pump, why not have more so there is less stress on the surfaces?!?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

My beef has always been the fact that there is only 2 surfaces driving the pump, why not have more so there is less stress on the surfaces?!?

It's a real pity the guy who was trying to make the splined gears got ripped off by his machinist :/

RB30 Ceffy Enthusiast

RB30 Ceffy

Posted
Posted

No doubt it's a shit design...

Good on you for trying to overcome the issue!

My beef has always been the fact that there is only 2 surfaces driving the pump, why not have more so there is less stress on the surfaces?!?

That may be my next step. Your totally right on tho!

What happened to the guy that was designing the splined gears? Machine work in Canada is relatively cheap. I got a few guys I use and its very reasonable. I'd like to see what this other guy ended up with as a design. Did he make new gears completely or just the inner gear and drive for the crank?

I think there has to be a cheap solution for everyone. Or we could all go dry and call it a day. none of this inbetween stuff ($1500 for same design pump)

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