Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey they sponsor my racecar so i mention them where i can...lol

did somebody say Vi-PEC ? :blink:

Haha, forgot about that one.

Did you say Vi-PEC, I have a Vi-PEC too! We should all get Vi-PEC's...

Vi-PEC!

Edited by bigmikespec
Were the Group A GTRs from the early 90's a dry sump or externally oiled?

interesting question - anyone have the answer?

i question the reliability of an external oil pump although i might be on the wrong page :blink: ...what are the points of failure other than the 1st & obvious being the belt drive? i'd guess this belt could randomly snap just like any other belt - my thoughts is that its great for circuit where the car is highly maintained but for the street...would it be a feasible option?

paul, you have a nitto pump right & its fine for your monstrous setup?

the likes of crd dont recommend external pump (unless it is an extreme application)

interesting question - anyone have the answer?

i question the reliability of an external oil pump although i might be on the wrong page :blink: ...what are the points of failure other than the 1st & obvious being the belt drive? i'd guess this belt could randomly snap just like any other belt - my thoughts is that its great for circuit where the car is highly maintained but for the street...would it be a feasible option?

paul, you have a nitto pump right & its fine for your monstrous setup?

the likes of crd dont recommend external pump (unless it is an extreme application)

I run a JUN pump on mine...ive been smashing it off the limiter for a few years and now the anti-lag.

I wont be running an OEM style pump on my engine when i pull it for a freshen...external is the way to go. For all my tough street builds i exclusively use Nitto...the best.

Edited by DiRTgarage
interesting question - anyone have the answer?

i question the reliability of an external oil pump although i might be on the wrong page :D ...what are the points of failure other than the 1st & obvious being the belt drive? i'd guess this belt could randomly snap just like any other belt - my thoughts is that its great for circuit where the car is highly maintained but for the street...would it be a feasible option?

paul, you have a nitto pump right & its fine for your monstrous setup?

the likes of crd dont recommend external pump (unless it is an extreme application)

If they are setup properly in the first instance there is no plausable reason why they should fail. And by setup properly i mean having the correct alignment in both planes, belt guides on BOTH pulleys & correct belt tention.

The only ways i can see that it could fail other than incorrect setup would be:

- teeth wear (same as ur cam gears though, how fast do they wear? not very fast at all)

- belt damage i.e little snick from debris hitting it etc

- bearing material passing through the pump scratching both the pump housing & gear sets (you should be running a pre-pump filter anyway)

The only downsides for running an external pump in a street based car are:

- Required to run thermo fan setup as pulley on front of balancer hits clutch fan

- Little fiddley to setup correctly

Other than that its full of win :D

P.S You should be maintaining your car properly anyway, if you let maintenance or regular checks lapse, thats when a big failure is most likely to happen.

My purchased new from nissan N1 failed 2 weeks ago, nailed 2nd, hit the limiter & thought I heard something..... checked my oil pressure to notice it was down to about 15psi & dropping to zero not long after. shut it straight off so hopefully not to much damage. been on my 26/30 making 455rwhp for about 3k, all balanced with Ati balancer, pro engines collar.

pulled the pump off to find gears smashed to pieces, minimal damage to the crank collar. Ill never use an N1 pump again, massive waste of money to buy and almost cost me a fortune in f@#ked motor. think I was lucky to catch it before massive engine failure.

The question now is what pump. I have an RB25 pump, anyone had any problems with them breaking? or does an RB30et toothed oil pump perform good enough to support twin cam setup? Thoughts?

My purchased new from nissan N1 failed 2 weeks ago, nailed 2nd, hit the limiter & thought I heard something..... checked my oil pressure to notice it was down to about 15psi & dropping to zero not long after. shut it straight off so hopefully not to much damage. been on my 26/30 making 455rwhp for about 3k, all balanced with Ati balancer, pro engines collar.

pulled the pump off to find gears smashed to pieces, minimal damage to the crank collar. Ill never use an N1 pump again, massive waste of money to buy and almost cost me a fortune in f@#ked motor. think I was lucky to catch it before massive engine failure.

The question now is what pump. I have an RB25 pump, anyone had any problems with them breaking? or does an RB30et toothed oil pump perform good enough to support twin cam setup? Thoughts?

Nitto pump is the only OEM style pump ill use or recommend using.

I will have a dry sump kit available in a week or so just waiting on the last few bits to be anodised. The kit has been tested on two 500+HP GTR's for the last 18 months without a problem. For anyone interested PM me for details.

Other than the gear set's in the N1's are there any other problems/design faults to be aware of? eg if/when I run a splined collar and gear set with an oem N1 pump, will somthing else fail?

NB: In the states, N1 pumps sell for as little as 192USD + shipping. I bought 3!!!

that's a bit worrying.

splines are the best option imo without opting for a dry sump. using a splined system you can use a material that does not have to be as tough as the OEM system (which is very very tough but also brittle).

Ideal gears will have the plastic deformation limit quite far from the UTS. As obviously the closer the plastic limit to the UTS the more brittle it is. Personally id rather the gears round themself off than sheer in to pieces.

what material are these splines/gears going to be made off?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...