Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have u just had any of ur belts replaced?

cause i had the same problems when i have my timing belt replaced, its making noise if i had her on idle or at low rpm, like parking...

so i brought it back and have it retensioned and it is smooth as ever since

my 2c

bly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284033-whirring-noise/#findComment-4775452
Share on other sites

Matt, when you say throw the clutch are you referring to pressing the clutch pedal in? If so then I would say it is a bearing rollover noise in neutral. Will need these bearings replaced to get rid of the sound. The unfortunate thing about this noise is, depending how loud it is, you can never *guarantee* getting rid of it...sometimes reconditioning the gearbox will only silence the noise or quieten it down a bit. This applies particularly to the older Nissan boxes such as R31 and R32 (also diesel GQ Patrol gearboxes for the people who give a shit). Given you have an R33 box it may benefit you to recondition the thing but you need to determine whether it's a sound you have to listen for to hear / turn down your stereo to hear, or if it's loud enough to be instantly recognisable by someone from outside of the car.

If the problem goes away when you release the clutch pedal then it is almost certainly thrust bearing related.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284033-whirring-noise/#findComment-4775951
Share on other sites

If the problem goes away when you release the clutch pedal then it is almost certainly thrust bearing related.

You mean if the noise goes away when you press the clutch pedal IN, right ?? Because that's when mine goes away..With clutch released and in neutral is when it IS making noise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284033-whirring-noise/#findComment-4776114
Share on other sites

Nope, I meant what I said. It makes sense if you relate it to the original poster's context. If you take your foot off the clutch pedal in neutral and it starts making the noise, it is very unlikely your thrust bearing. People often confuse these symptoms, but the thrust bearing only starts spinning when it acts on the pressure plate as per you pushing the clutch pedal in - all other times it usually remains idle sitting on the input shaft sleeve, therefore will not make a noise.

It is however a good idea to replace this bearing (and your clutch) at the same time as fixing your gearbox, just to save you possible future troubles from it, but I'm 95% sure the TB is not your problem Wacky Dee. You too have a gearbox rollover noise in neutral.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284033-whirring-noise/#findComment-4776279
Share on other sites

Another cause can be your exhaust...It may be too quiet!! Larger systems fix a whole range of annoying and groans and rattles...

but seriously +1 for the gearset / bearing rolling noise...At idle, even in neutral, with clutch engaged (pedal up) input shaft, most bearings, gears /synchros still spin. Only thing not spinning is the output shaft. Put foot on clutch and everything in g/box stops (as long as car is stationary) except for throwout bearing which then has fair load on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284033-whirring-noise/#findComment-4776326
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
  • Create New...