Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1998 r33 gtst 150000 km, one of the last 50 r33s made

Engine

Forged Rebuild (have reciepts)(about 40000kms on rebuild I believe, runs smoother then toyota engines!)

Blitz FMIC & Pod

3" Nismo cat back Exhaust, 3" split dump/front

Blitz Dual SBC Boost controller

Apexi SAFC II(not tuned)

Turbosmart BOV

Saber Alloy radiator

Inside

Greddy Turbo Timer

Dildo Gear Knob

Blitz Boost Guage

Outside

Factory Aero (skirts & rear aprons)

stock s15 rims with t1rs

Suspension

Cusco Camber Arms

Cusco Traction Rods

G4 Coilovers (8kg front, 6kg rear)

Selling becuase I want something diferent, im open to swaps with cash either way

Car made 180rwkws a couple of months ago with just cat back exuast, have since put dump and front on.

Very well set up car, since owning the car I have changed the oil every 3000kms using Mobil 1. I have had this car for over a year and never had a problem with it

13 500 ono

pictures can be supplied upon request and or I will post some pics up later on when im on my other computer.

Cons: Has been keyed on both doors and minor paint scrapes on the front bar.

Picture is the car with volk gt-p, which are currently on my s14 but if the buyer wanted the rims with the 33 something could be arranged

post-30080-1250840653_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284433-1998-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • have you rotated the car yet? if so how smooth was it?
    • And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR
    • The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket.  As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness)   and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done  
    • OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95  and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission.   From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)  
    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
×
×
  • Create New...