Swaybars

[shotter]

I haven't fitted it yet. But i was told to use the 3rd hole from the end. it's a 24mm bar and i will be using the std links. So i will just have to wait and see where they reach too. Also is it safe to remove the castor rod while the car is sitting on the wheels? Or does it need to be jacked up?

[siksII]

I haven't fitted it yet. But i was told to use the 3rd hole from the end. it's a 24mm bar and i will be using the std links. So i will just have to wait and see where they reach too. Also is it safe to remove the castor rod while the car is sitting on the wheels? Or does it need to be jacked up?

Remove them will the car jacked up - it would make the whole process harder by doing it with wheels on the ground. With standard links like mine, im pretty sure you will find they only reach to the rear two holes - wonder what the point of having the other two holes are.

I fitted mine last night and had several annoying hassles, issues were all related to manufacturer incompetence -

-One of the round bushes on rear link was split

-Stud was supplied instead of a bolt

-Nyloc nuts for the top of the front links were the wrong size

-Two holes on the front bar were not drilled cleanly so the bolts would not fit through

Perhaps they have a 2 year old packing the kits?

I had to steal parts of a friends spare bar to fit them up, will be following this up to get replacement link kits.

Attached are pics of the faulty/wrong parts (white nyloc is incorrect one that was supplied - correct size is the blue nyloc nut)

[shotter]

I was going to put the front up on ramps so i could get under there. Just so that way i could tighten everything up at ride hight. But i dont wanna pull the castor rod out if it's going to make the wheel's unstable up on the ramps.

[siksII]

I was going to put the front up on ramps so i could get under there. Just so that way i could tighten everything up at ride hight. But i dont wanna pull the castor rod out if it's going to make the wheel's unstable up on the ramps.

The only parts that you really need to worry about doing up at ride height are the castor rods, hence I would do it all on the ground, then drive the car up on ramps with the rods loosely on, then tighten.

You need the front wheels removed to fit the front swaybar, its very hard to get to the swaybar links with them on. You can fit the rear bar with the wheels on and rear jacked up. Might be hard on ramps as there is weight on the suspension arms and hence they will be hard to manipulate when fitting.

[08r3308]

you dont need to remove front wheels or back to do sway bars

did mine at home with rams and was pretty easy and straight forward

[shotter]

Well the fronts done. I jacked it up and pulled the wheels off to get easyer access and dropped it back down to ride hight to tighten everything back up. But the std link could only reach the 2 end holes.

[PM-R33]

You have to tighten the castor arms with the car at ride height? Shit i didn't do that, why's that? Just to make sure you get it tight?

Edited September 28, 2009 by PM-R33

[siksII]

Well the fronts done. I jacked it up and pulled the wheels off to get easyer access and dropped it back down to ride hight to tighten everything back up. But the std link could only reach the 2 end holes.

Thats what I found, however apparently the links will reach the front two holes while the car is at normal ride height, ie you need to do it on ramps or on a hoist. Have not tried this yet but will try on the weekend.

You have to tighten the castor arms with the car at ride height? Shit i didn't do that, why's that? Just to make sure you get it tight?

This is because the bush is held tight ie doesnt rotate inside the rod once you tighten it up - once you let the car down the bush will be twisted at normal ride height. By tightening at normal ride height the bush is not twisted while at normal height, only as the suspension moves up and down.

This is the case with normal rubber bushes on the car, not 100% sure if the same applied to urethane bushes in the front castor rods but it seems that way since the centre will not twist and the bush will not twist in the outer housing either... If you have castor rods with spherical ends then you dont need to worry about it in this case.

[shotter]

Yea i thought it may be able to reach at ride hight but i was already tightening everything up so i couldn't be stuffed. Please let us know if you can reach those holes.

[PM-R33]

This is because the bush is held tight ie doesnt rotate inside the rod once you tighten it up - once you let the car down the bush will be twisted at normal ride height. By tightening at normal ride height the bush is not twisted while at normal height, only as the suspension moves up and down.

This is the case with normal rubber bushes on the car, not 100% sure if the same applied to urethane bushes in the front castor rods but it seems that way since the centre will not twist and the bush will not twist in the outer housing either... If you have castor rods with spherical ends then you dont need to worry about it in this case.

Hmm makes sense. Maybe ill check over mine, problem is there's no way my car will get up ramps. Will have to do it another way.

Edited September 29, 2009 by PM-R33

[DaveO74]

Hey I went to get my Selby Adjustable Swaybars fitted today and the rear one appears to have the wrong type of link.

I was given the "Double Eye Type Link" but by the look of the mounting area on the car i need a "Eye/Pin Type Link"

Can somebody confirm this for me?

[siksII]

Hey I went to get my Selby Adjustable Swaybars fitted today and the rear one appears to have the wrong type of link.

I was given the "Double Eye Type Link" but by the look of the mounting area on the car i need a "Eye/Pin Type Link"

Can somebody confirm this for me?

Assuming you have an r33 gtst then yes you are correct, you were sent the wrong links.

[DaveO74]

Yeh 33,

thanks for the info