Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

driving home and as soon as the car hits 3000 rpm it decides it wants to stall,,,,, not stright away but eventually does after spitting for a bit,,,, then it wont start again for about 5 to 10 min.

the idle is a bit lower than normal aswell... bout 600.....

any ideas?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284458-rb-25-wont-rev-over-3000-rpm/
Share on other sites

can you hear ur fuel pump whining in the boot?

Engines need;

Compression, Fuel, Air and Ignition to run.

Air is usually not a problem, and ud know if you had no compression, so check Fuel next, does sound like a AFM plug loose tho

fuel pump is humming away....... compression is good....

ill clean the afm tomoz and reset the ecu see if that makes a differance........

maby injectors blocked????? or fully open?????

is it only if you are giving it a boot or is it even under light acceleration? if only when you give it the beans then it could be that once it comes on boost it is forcing open a gap somewhere (such as a split cooler pipe or joiner) which is making it run very rich and making it stall.

driving home and as soon as the car hits 3000 rpm it decides it wants to stall,,,,, not stright away but eventually does after spitting for a bit,,,, then it wont start again for about 5 to 10 min.

the idle is a bit lower than normal aswell... bout 600.....

any ideas?????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
    • Yeah, that and throwing away opened, part used, closed back up bottles has got to be bullshit. Brake fluid sits in not-very-well sealed master cylinder reservoirs for literal years and keeps working (albeit we know we should flush it every couple of years - it actually still works). Anything kept in a bottle in the shed with a tightly capped lid has got to be a million times better than what has been in the car for the same length of time.
    • Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?
    • The plan is to get it out of the shed. The reality may fall some way short. But hope is as cheap as despair as they say. Will go a wide band I think. The coils are ok so maybe I’ll miss the $1500 on the R35 coils etc. Im still on the fence about a trigger kit. The HKS one looks nice ($1k) - not sure how it works with the Link or if Link prefer something else. Oil pressure is fine so I’m not that concerned there. Fuel pressure I’ll have a think about. The IAT got changed for the Link anyway as the old RB26 ones were really slow reacting and pretty poor. The Power FC just worked. Wasn’t terribly refined but it just worked. Probably made a mistake replacing it really. E85 isn’t available locally - it is 100+ kms away which puts it in the too hard basket. Lastly I understand Tunecorp in Perth are pretty good so was probably going there.   As for turbos is there are new age -5 drop in replacement? Turbos have come a long way in 20 years, everyone is big single which is fair enough but I prefer the old school complication of twins. Wasn’t chasing more power (well, not much more) but more efficiency would be ok.
    • I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/
×
×
  • Create New...