Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

further to that you'd be mad to import any 89 or 90 models either as they require side intrusion bars etc and are generally more work = more cost to comply. so to be safe stick to 93 and 94 models. makes it easy. obviously mid-late 92 models are ok too but make sure you are 100% correct on the build date as you'd hate to buy a 92 and get knocked back due to it's build month.

Correct. Nissan imported and sold 100 GTR's in 1991 and 1992 for homologation reasons so that they were eligible to be entered at Bathurst and the touring car series (where they cleaned up). Since we can only import cars that were not sold locally in Australia, GTR's manufactured during that time are not eligible. This is the same reason we can only import certain build ranges for RX-7's, S15 Silvias, GTO's and 2+2 300ZX's... for some of their build life they were sold locally as new vehicles in Australia.

if you're planning to import that 90 model I would check whether or not it has side intrusion bars. I can't remember what year/month they start off the top of my head but I'm fairly certain most if not all 90 models won't have them. it's not a huge deal but considering there are ample nice cars both in aus and japan it doesn't make sense having to go through that effort and cost to import one unless it's something really special.

I have a 1990 model and intrusion bars needed to be fitted for compliancing.

But you did not need side indicators (On the front guards) but needed a rear parcel shelf brake light.

Needed an Unleaded Fuel Restrictor Cap, so only Unleaded Fuel Nosile can go in when filling up petrol... But we don't have Leaded Fuel anymore so it is pointless but it comes under the ADR's.

Check with David from Carizma International as he is on SAU.

I have a 1990 model and intrusion bars needed to be fitted for compliancing.

But you did not need side indicators (On the front guards) but needed a rear parcel shelf brake light.

Needed an Unleaded Fuel Restrictor Cap, so only Unleaded Fuel Nosile can go in when filling up petrol... But we don't have Leaded Fuel anymore so it is pointless but it comes under the ADR's.

Check with David from Carizma International as he is on SAU.

:) ...my front side guards got hacked. How come you got around that?

:P ...my front side guards got hacked. How come you got around that?

Really?

So they had to make a hole to get the indicators in yeah..?

Well one of my mechanics told me that was the reason, cuz it was a 1990 model, it did not need it...

Do you remember that whole "15 Year Old Rule" that came in?

There where it's Pros and Cons in the Rule,

What can be imported under the 15 year rule?

Anything as long as it is older than December 1988. Also, there are still a handful of 1989 / 90 models listed in stock which have import approvals issued under the 15 year rule before it changed last year, and these can still be imported under this rule.

Registration of 15 year old cars

We always suggest with 15 year old vehicles that an allowance of about $1,200 be made for the modifications required prior to registration (which can be done by anyone). These vary from vehicle to vehicle and State to State, and may include the following items:

o Seatbelts

o Sun visors

o Child restraint points on the rear parcel shelf

o High level brake light

o Catalytic convertor

o Driver's side mirror changed from convex to flat

o Unleaded fuel filler opening restrictor

o Side intrusion bars

o Dash dimmer switch

o Engineer's sign-off (some States only)

If you are uncertain about what needs to be done for a vehicle you are considering, you should ask the registration authority in your State for further information. Costs of the work can then be determined by contacting a workshop prior to going ahead. While you can make all the changes yourself, we can of course recommend a reliable workshop in your State should you require assistance.

Performance modifications

15 year old cars with performance modifications simply need to get through your State's registration process. The 15 year rule is separate to the new import scheme (SEVS) so there is no need to remove performance modifications for "compliance". However, each State has it's own rules on what level of modifications are acceptable, so you should check with your State's registration authority if you are unsure. For example, in SA which is the strictest State, any vehicle must be completely stock standard when registered except for wheels which can be aftermarket (but no more than one or two inches larger than factory).

- http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...rticle.php?t=11

I have a 1990 model and intrusion bars needed to be fitted for compliancing.

But you did not need side indicators (On the front guards) but needed a rear parcel shelf brake light.

Needed an Unleaded Fuel Restrictor Cap, so only Unleaded Fuel Nosile can go in when filling up petrol... But we don't have Leaded Fuel anymore so it is pointless but it comes under the ADR's.

Check with David from Carizma International as he is on SAU.

was your car complied under the 15yo rule? sounds like it was and if it was then what you're posting is irrelevant. no R32 GTR can be complied under that rule. it's been gone for 4 years now. THERE IS NO 15yo RULE. we now have a scheme which covers 1988 and earlier model cars. R32s of course are not in that category. all that rubbish you posted above from another website is out of date by 4 years...

they all must be complied under SEVS which is completely different. and no they do not require fuel filler neck restrictors.

:D ...my front side guards got hacked. How come you got around that?

don't listen to what he posted. he is talking about a now defunct scheme that has no bearing on current R32 GTR compliance. R32s do need the front side indicators done. yeah it's a shame but if it's in the evidence package it has to be done.

Correct. Nissan imported and sold 100 GTR's in 1991 and 1992 for homologation reasons so that they were eligible to be entered at Bathurst and the touring car series (where they cleaned up). Since we can only import cars that were not sold locally in Australia, GTR's manufactured during that time are not eligible. This is the same reason we can only import certain build ranges for RX-7's, S15 Silvias, GTO's and 2+2 300ZX's... for some of their build life they were sold locally as new vehicles in Australia.

Group A homologation was done prior to any GT-R's being sold in Australia. The two are not related. In any case the Nismo model homologated was never actually sold in Australia.

With regard to 15 year rules & quarter panel indicators if the car lacks them it usually means it was complied under the 15 year rule before the state regulatory authority in your state got their act together. I had a GT-R without & one with them.

Other stuff that appears to have gone by the wayside as far as SEVS compliance goes are the fuel restrictor & the dash light dimmer.

If you can find a 1992 model with an allowable build month (ie late, not sure how late) they can tend to be a bit of a bargain as every other dopey %*@# only ever contemplates 93 & 94 model years.

Edited by djr81
was your car complied under the 15yo rule? sounds like it was and if it was then what you're posting is irrelevant. no R32 GTR can be complied under that rule. it's been gone for 4 years now. THERE IS NO 15yo RULE. we now have a scheme which covers 1988 and earlier model cars. R32s of course are not in that category. all that rubbish you posted above from another website is out of date by 4 years...

they all must be complied under SEVS which is completely different. and no they do not require fuel filler neck restrictors.

don't listen to what he posted. he is talking about a now defunct scheme that has no bearing on current R32 GTR compliance. R32s do need the front side indicators done. yeah it's a shame but if it's in the evidence package it has to be done.

No need to get angry, a simple correction would have been nice...

If it is out of date then I am not to blame, the website which is still active, is where I got the source from... Go nuts at them...

lol, I wasn't angry? I apologise if you thought i was being rude, reading my post again it does seem a bit harsh. but I just said don't listen to something that has no bearing on current GTR compliance. purely to save people problems. they do have the correct information on that website though, if you actually read the link you posted it says:

What is the 15 year rule ?

Well, there are in fact four (4) methods of importing vehicles to Australia, of which the 15 year rule is only one method (see Importing Regulations). The 15 year rule is completely separate to (and unaffected by) the new import scheme (SEVS -- Specialist and Enthusiast Vehicle Scheme), and until May 2005 allowed for the import of any vehicle to Australia that was 15 years old or older at that time. However, DOTARS changed the rule in May 2005 to apply to December 1988 and older models only, and this will not change until about 2018 when 1988 model vehicles are 30 years old. Only then will the reference year of 1988 start moving forward again.

so as I said it does not apply to any R32 GTR and has not for nearly 5 years.

it's nice to want to help people out but I'm sure you can see the problem when you give people advice about stuff that is not correct. the next thing you know the bloke above is ringing his complier saying "hey you ripped me off, I heard you don't need to do indicators, you've wrecked my guards and charged me for it..." etc. or you have another bloke who guys and buys a 1989 R32 GTR expecting he only has to meet the 15yo rule which hasn't existed for 4 years.

I would advise anyone wanting compliance info ring a compliance workshop or even better... DOTARS. they set the rules and they enforce them. They are the people best placed to advise you. but the fact still stands. there is no '15yo rule' as such any more. it's now "pre 1988 rule" and will not change in the near future, if at all.

lol, I wasn't angry? I apologise if you thought i was being rude, reading my post again it does seem a bit harsh. but I just said don't listen to something that has no bearing on current GTR compliance. purely to save people problems. they do have the correct information on that website though, if you actually read the link you posted it says:

so as I said it does not apply to any R32 GTR and has not for nearly 5 years.

it's nice to want to help people out but I'm sure you can see the problem when you give people advice about stuff that is not correct. the next thing you know the bloke above is ringing his complier saying "hey you ripped me off, I heard you don't need to do indicators, you've wrecked my guards and charged me for it..." etc. or you have another bloke who guys and buys a 1989 R32 GTR expecting he only has to meet the 15yo rule which hasn't existed for 4 years.

I would advise anyone wanting compliance info ring a compliance workshop or even better... DOTARS. they set the rules and they enforce them. They are the people best placed to advise you. but the fact still stands. there is no '15yo rule' as such any more. it's now "pre 1988 rule" and will not change in the near future, if at all.

That's much better! :P

Thank you :) and thank you for clearing that up.

Cool!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...