Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had time to go searching the net tonight looking for info on the VQ25DET.

I have come across a site about some one who has done every possible mod to the M35 inside, outside and to the motor.

Not only has he improved the turbo and the manifold but he has taken it out to a 3.5L VQ25DET.

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...N%26start%3D150

Have a good look over the whole site and look for items to click on as there is all sorts of information in the background.

It looks like it is a company called TEPS that does most of the mods and using a Fcon computer.

This is soooooo interesting.

Cheers

Andy

Yeah, this was first posted in the "M35 info" a little while back (nice to be able to find it in its own thread though :( )

I am currently trying to get the intake available for everyone, but this may take some time.

The turbo is a GT-RS. Similar to Craigs(?)

Done some nice stuff to it, although everything that is not a "TEPS" item is pretty much a bolt on aftermarket item.

There was another one that installed a VQ35DET and was pushing 450awPS.

Edited by iamhe77
Yeah, this was first posted in the "M35 info" a little while back (nice to be able to find it in its own thread though :( )

I am currently trying to get the intake available for everyone, but this may take some time.

The turbo is a GT-RS. Similar to Craigs(?)

Done some nice stuff to it, although everything that is not a "TEPS" item is pretty much a bolt on aftermarket item.

There was another one that installed a VQ35DET and was pushing 450awPS.

Did you see the part where he installed a 20mm spacer at the top of the cylinders to increase the capacity to 3.5L.

Very tempting.

Did you see the part where he installed a 20mm spacer at the top of the cylinders to increase the capacity to 3.5L.

Very tempting.

Nope. Didn't read the whole site. I am more of a picture looker :(

Love the idea though!

Didn't TEPS use VQ35 cylinders and cams or something?

I certainly do like his plenum!

Edited by iamhe77
Nope. Didn't read the whole site. I am more of a picture looker :(

Love the idea though!

Didn't TEPS use VQ35 cylinders and cams or something?

You can click on a lot of the photo's and go to more specific information.

This is the section where he fits the 20mm spacer to the block. From what I can work out he does not change any of the internals at this stage.

http://66.102.11.132/translate_c?hl=en&amp...j5h2ecmEQpcR5uA

You can click on a lot of the photo's and go to more specific information.

This is the section where he fits the 20mm spacer to the block. From what I can work out he does not change any of the internals at this stage.

http://66.102.11.132/translate_c?hl=en&amp...j5h2ecmEQpcR5uA

Thanks for the link to the page, Andy.

Haven't seen that page before.

That is what we are looking at doing when I was referring to a plenum spacer. But we were looking at 10mm. May have to change that size.

Thanks for the link to the page, Andy.

Haven't seen that page before.

That is what we are looking at doing when I was referring to a plenum spacer. But we were looking at 10mm. May have to change that size.

From what I read it was a prototype and he seemed happy but in the end does get a full rebuild using 35 pistons and cranks etc chasing more power.

It is additive.

I was just reading about the replacing the intake before the throttle body and he talks about more consistency in boost and better throttle response. hmmm. so much to do and so little budget.

From what I read it was a prototype and he seemed happy but in the end does get a full rebuild using 35 pistons and cranks etc chasing more power.

It is additive.

I was just reading about the replacing the intake before the throttle body and he talks about more consistency in boost and better throttle response. hmmm. so much to do and so little budget.

Are you referring to the cone shaped piping between the 60mm rubber intercooler piping and the trottle body?

Scotty was kind enough to modify a 300x76mm piece of aluminium piping to use as a replacement (incorporated BOV mount).

Just need the larger FMIC and make up the rest of the piping.

So much on so little? Tell me about it!

Frustrated to Hell! :(

Are you referring to the cone shaped piping between the 60mm rubber intercooler piping and the trottle body?

Scotty was kind enough to modify a 300x76mm piece of aluminium piping to use as a replacement (incorporated BOV mount).

Just need the larger FMIC and make up the rest of the piping.

So much on so little? Tell me about it!

Frustrated to Hell! :devil:

Yes, The cone. I will wait for the HDI unit I think and see what it looks like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, well, mine were 31 years old last year when they finally got done. Started to leak a bit.
    • I've ordered a new fuel pump and plan to do all the fuel tank hoses at the same time. Those are the hoses I would rather not go on the road.
    • As a general rule removing rubber fuel hose is so difficult I would replace it if it hasn't been done in the last 5 years. The risk you damage the liner or one of the inner layers is pretty high if it's not almost brand new. BMW's recommendations around coolant hoses is similar. My R33's fuel hoses at the fuel tank were so perished that they were ready to burst FYI. 
    • Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
×
×
  • Create New...