Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i would suggest test driving both of the sorts of skylines such as turbo and non turbo and see which one you would go for and how long you would keep it for. There are plenty of dealers that will let you test drive or even private sales if you were serious enough to come up with a deposit

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dude, buy a POS nissan pulsar or corolla for now (how about a ke70??? still rwd fun, and there getting VERY popular at the moment) can pick one up for $1000-$2000. and there a basic car to work on which will give you good experience for when the skyline comes along. and it wont be a big deal if you crash it (and there will be times when u come close to incidents/crashes, everyone has them)

chuck some old school jap wheels on there, stiffer springs and it will go til' the cows come home

u definately have to stage your cars capabilities as you get more experience, otherwise u'll kill yourself

for example:

1st- ke70

2nd- r33 gtst :(

3rd- r3x gtr/evo

4th- some feckin off chops thing :devil:

dude, buy a POS nissan pulsar or corolla for now (how about a ke70??? still rwd fun, and there getting VERY popular at the moment) can pick one up for $1000-$2000. and there a basic car to work on which will give you good experience for when the skyline comes along. and it wont be a big deal if you crash it (and there will be times when u come close to incidents/crashes, everyone has them)

chuck some old school jap wheels on there, stiffer springs and it will go til' the cows come home

u definately have to stage your cars capabilities as you get more experience, otherwise u'll kill yourself

for example:

1st- ke70

2nd- r33 gtst :(

3rd- r3x gtr/evo

4th- some feckin off chops thing :devil:

or an 85 skyline? they're fairly cheap now and still have the retro-ness i love

yeah go that!

rb30!

few manuals around.

if u look hard enough you might come across a r31 which has been a little old grandma's or grandpa's car which they used to go to the shops and lawn bowls on sunday.

score of the century

just get a r33 Non Turbo and then get a turbo one later...

i did the same. although i regretted getting the non turbo coz i was not on my P's or anythin i just got it coz i wanted a skyline and couldnt afford the turbo one.

but finally got a turbo one and love it. :thumbsup:

good luck

I had this type of "glory" srounding the skyline.. Let me tell you they are a wikid car and verry well built.. i got a r33 gtst for my verry first car and i learnt along the way about controling my right foot.. but all in all be prepared to open your wallet alot.. lol

also u want a test drive i have a skyline for sale... check it out.. 10500 +

post-54415-1251030558_thumb.jpg

lol, u cant fish tail a fwd buddy.

that would be your problem.

by reading the first page or so, id say ur better off deleting your account and trying again.

The only reason im still hanging in here for advice is because these members probably saved me from making a mistake, 'or a statistic'

im listening to what people are saying and taking advice readily, otherwise i would have just bought a skyline already and probably been interviewed by aca

My logic is retarded

logout and buy a honda

haven't you been following the thread? thats what ive already got.

and after a discussion with mum, she wants to sell it and buy a merc. so ill have to make my decision with a car very soon

Edited by Bmboy

hey wassup g, i have a twin turbo 33 gtst that i use as a thrashy, you can test drive it this week bro and who knows,, if you like it ill sell it to you cheap.. ps dont worry you wont have any problems fishtailing the beast..just need proof that you finished the driver courses you stated.. cheers mate

http://www.aussiev8.com.au/questions-boys-...my-licence.html

who said anything about weaving in and out of traffic? im talking about the accord going from stationary to moving (at like a T or + intersection), and if some coot is speeding i cant get out of the way. umm and im sure i can afford the costs with a skyline, otherwise id be going cheap us or chinese cars... ;)

Chinese cars are f*cken awsome! Have you seen the amount of

they have? :D

Sucked in Volvo, Chinese cars have way more crumble zones than you! :laugh:

Hehe, man this got more attention than my infamous cruising idea a few months ago =]

Just wanted to mention this firstly, you say your mum's buying a Merc, having had an Accord, which makes it sound like you come from one of those families who upgrade cars every few years. Now, I'm looking at a wikipedia page as we speak (....? dividing by zero here possibly, since it's the middle of the night), and so assuming your family's done this anytime in the last three years, means your Accord will be 06+. Now, where I'm actually going with this is, wikipedia says 06 Accords are measured at roughly 244hp, which I would like to point out is say 28hp more than my relatively stock 33.

Now, I have a nice A'PEXi AVCR constantly giving me readouts, graphs, and all sorts of funky figures that you'd be silly to examine while you actually drove, except for one, percentage of throttle used. In a car less powerfull than yours, apart from taking off from lights, or occasionally overtaking people, my throttle doesn't stray anywhere near as 20%, and I'd say I drove pretty nippily, I don't hoon or do silly things, but I'm a firm beleiver in getting to the speed limit quickly, and driving quickly and efficiently, without being a dickhead.

So, not to rip into you at all, but there is a point I think is coming from a completely different direction, and may be of some use.

PS: Yes, to all the above posts, especially those about changing your attitude once you actually have a 'line. I'm still 18 and on green P's, and for months and months every time I saw a policeman, I got pulled over, breath tested, drugs tested, sat down, and interviewed about my car; and plus, one night on the way home from a cruise, I went around a wet corner, not too fast, and overcorrected, and payed $1500 to get my car running again, and off some lady's front lawn, and I drove slower then than my 12-20% throttle now.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...