Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Noise From Front

mike40sydney
 Share

Recommended Posts

mike40sydney Experienced

mike40sydney

Posted
Posted

Hey guys ive had a wierd noise for a while sorta a grinding but not noise from the front when rolling slow or at speed.I put it down to the new tyres but now im not convinced.It had a flat bat the other day and we had to push her out to jump start it.it felt like it was in gear like the front diff is engaged or something.And yes it was in neutral lol Any help would be apreciated regards mike .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284615-strange-noise-from-front/
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
Hey guys ive had a wierd noise for a while sorta a grinding but not noise from the front when rolling slow or at speed.I put it down to the new tyres but now im not convinced.It had a flat bat the other day and we had to push her out to jump start it.it felt like it was in gear like the front diff is engaged or something.And yes it was in neutral lol Any help would be apreciated regards mike .

A grind sounds like a bearing. Where it is though is anyones guess. Suggest jacking front and try turning various parts to find the culprit. A stethoscope helps.

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
Hey guys ive had a wierd noise for a while sorta a grinding but not noise from the front when rolling slow or at speed.I put it down to the new tyres but now im not convinced.It had a flat bat the other day and we had to push her out to jump start it.it felt like it was in gear like the front diff is engaged or something.And yes it was in neutral lol Any help would be apreciated regards mike .

+1 on the visual inspection, but they are mighty heavy to push The additional resistance of the transfer case etc. makes a difference!

mike40sydney Experienced

mike40sydney

Posted
  • Author
Posted
+1 on the visual inspection, but they are mighty heavy to push The additional resistance of the transfer case etc. makes a difference!

feels like its in gear.i have done all the usual checks wheel nuts etc no loose bearings no play anywhere

  • 4 weeks later...
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

Just came across this one - might be the same issue I've had since I bought my M35 last october.

I did some tyre swapping early this year (well, swapped different wheels with the spare to try to identify the problem) and it seemed to me that it was just purely tyre noise in my case.

However, ~6 months later and the noise has been slowly getting worse. Hard to say if it gets louder with speed, if anything its loudest around 30-40km/h and kind of stays fairly constant after that.

Lately its started doing a really low-pitched grinding noise around 10-20km/h and this noise will continue if i stay under 20km/h. The vibration can be felt through the car, although more through the floor at the front / steering etc.

I was originally suspecting wheel bearings when I bought the car but I'm not so sure. When I put the spare wheel on the front the noise almost disappeared. Its definitely speed related which just points to anything AFTER the gearbox I imagine.

Its booked in for the 100,000km service this week - might get the mechanic to sus it out while its in there.

Other symptoms include when cruising at say 60km/h, sometimes it will all of a sudden feel like the brakes are on and it starts slowing down quicker than normal - feels like the gearbox shifts to a lower gear which is strange, normally at this speed it will be in 4th or 5th when cruising.

And yet another symptom is the sensation that something is "slipping" either when changing from reverse to drive or if just slowly taking off up an incline. This doesn't occur when driving normally though...only when first taking off from standing still.

mike40sydney Experienced

mike40sydney

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just came across this one - might be the same issue I've had since I bought my M35 last october.

I did some tyre swapping early this year (well, swapped different wheels with the spare to try to identify the problem) and it seemed to me that it was just purely tyre noise in my case.

However, ~6 months later and the noise has been slowly getting worse. Hard to say if it gets louder with speed, if anything its loudest around 30-40km/h and kind of stays fairly constant after that.

Lately its started doing a really low-pitched grinding noise around 10-20km/h and this noise will continue if i stay under 20km/h. The vibration can be felt through the car, although more through the floor at the front / steering etc.

I was originally suspecting wheel bearings when I bought the car but I'm not so sure. When I put the spare wheel on the front the noise almost disappeared. Its definitely speed related which just points to anything AFTER the gearbox I imagine.

Its booked in for the 100,000km service this week - might get the mechanic to sus it out while its in there.

Other symptoms include when cruising at say 60km/h, sometimes it will all of a sudden feel like the brakes are on and it starts slowing down quicker than normal - feels like the gearbox shifts to a lower gear which is strange, normally at this speed it will be in 4th or 5th when cruising.

And yet another symptom is the sensation that something is "slipping" either when changing from reverse to drive or if just slowly taking off up an incline. This doesn't occur when driving normally though...only when first taking off from standing still.

let us know how it goes bud

alu-siv_stagea Community Regular

alu-siv_stagea

Posted
Posted

could be bearings mike, i just found out this arvo that my rear bearing is cactus on the pasanager side, my disk has quite a bit of monement and i had some weird krieking noise from the area for past couple of weeks.

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

Well I have the verdict on mine already - the mechanic just rang and confirmed it is just the tyres. He said they had it on the hoist and the wheel bearings seem fine. This is the same as what my dad and I diagnosed on it about 6 months ago so I'm happy now.

The tyres are really ribbed, particularly on the inside. The tread is just getting sharper and sharper edges on it the more its worn. So now its making a shudder at 10-20km/h and also the whining noise as you go faster.

So in some ways its a good result but now I've got the choice of either drive a nice car that handles like crap (and sounds like a council bus) or hand over ~$700 for new tyres.

I really really want new tyres now - this has been driving me up the wall for the past 10 months!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • Butters
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Butters · Posted

      I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • Lithium
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Lithium · Posted

      BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...