Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeap...thats what i have Strich9ine....slip and a-lsd light...and the a-lsd light keeps coming on....when i check it out, it says the tps needs changing...but i got it changed and its still happenin! which is why i think the powerfc might not support a-lsd or something....

Hi There.

You are a very lucky man to have an R33 with A-LSD. Rare option, about $5,000 from the factory! It magically splits the torque between the two rear wheels to make sure maximum traction is delivered. A very very fancy LSD.

The A-LSD actually has a seperate computer behind the back seat. I'm not sure what sort of outputs from the standard computer it needs, but TPS sounds like a logical one it would need.

Have a look behind your seat and compare it to a mates who doesn't have that option. You will see the difference.

BASS OUT

Lucky girl you mean :)

Yeap...already spotted the ecu that controls the a-lsd...the ecu was telling me that there was a problem with the tps. I swapped out the tps, but the light is still on...now, the missing link here is the engine ecu (powerfc)...everything else is working fine...so thats why i'm thinking it might be something to do powerfc not supporting a-lsd :)

also forgot to mention that while i had my orginal ecu, i did not have this problem...

any other suggestions anyone?!

hey

http://www.apexi.com.au/ takes you to unique autosports.

http://www.apexi.com takes you to the us site, with a link to Japan.

You could start there I guess.

Where did you get it tuned.... they should know.

I've got a better idea though........ make a strip of oil on the road for one wheel, then accellerate over it and if it spins the whole way, then the A-LSD isn't working. If it takes off nicely, then its working....

BASS OUT

whats up with the apexi site going to unique!!!!!!!

Tried the US site...they only have numbers...might call them...the japan site is in japanese ;) can you read japanese?! maybe you can e-mail them for me :)

Hmm...thats another thing...i haven't had the car properly tuned...have always had a slipping clutch so there was no point...thats fixed now...but now no money ;)

As for you test...thats already scheduled to happen this weekend :)

I have the hydrolic diff in my car as well. The two little lights on the dash.

That is a really interesting question that I never really thought about then thinking about ordering a pfc. I've just asked my mechanic and he's going to be back to me and when I have an answer I'll let you know moanie.

PS. Dont break your diff. They are ****en expensive to fix! Trust me.

As I've said before,

The Active LSD has it's own computer next to the battery in the boot.

I don't see how it can have anything to do with the PowerFC.

Are you sure the problem lies with the PowerFC? Have you actually sat there and done this?

Step 1. PowerFC plugged in. Drive around. A-LSD light comes one and indicates a fault

Step 2. Take out PowerFC. Put in Stock ECU.

Step 3. Drive around.... No more errors.

Step 4. Put PowerFC back in again.

Step 5. Drive around... Error comes back again.

You're a computer geek... This is basic troubleshooting that I assume you have done............... RIGHT?? :shake:

If so, then the fault is definitely with the PowerFC (and I'm still unsure why, as it has no bearing on the A-LSD.

Next step, as I already told you, was to grab another KNOWN GOOD PowerFC, and plug it into your car.

i had a problem with my hicas once and was told that the power fc would not be able to communicate with the hicas computer and thus, would not be able to troubleshoot what was wrong with the car...so i brought the stock ecu in and everything was diagnosed immediately...maybe u should try doing that

NISMOGIRL! Thanks chickie! any info would be appreciated! :)

Merli: You don't read do you!!!! I said i had no problems when my stock ECU was in...and the only times i have the alsd light on is when the powerfc is in...which is why I am saying its a powerfc problem! Plus I know the alsd ecu is seperate to the powerfc...but its all feeds back into the powerfc...well..this is what i have been told...basically i've checked stock ecu...its ok...alsd ecu...its ok...tps....its new and perfect! the missing link? powerfc!! Plus i recall a convo we had on thursday over the cb where i said i had another powerfc and i was going to test it this weekend! sheesh! whats with the attack! I'm just trying to see if anyone else has had the same problem and what they did to fix it!!!

rb26: How did you diagnose with your stock ecu? is this by checking the flashing light on the alsd ecu?! I did that while the powerfc was in, and it was indicating the tps needed changing...i changed it...the problem is still occurring and still telling me the same thing! :) When the stock ecu was in, there was no problem indicated...

Is the a-LSD option definately supported by the PFC? I had a quick look at the applications list at the Jap website using babelfish for a translator. It doesn't mention any specific exclusions so i'd assume so. do s1 and s2 r33s use a different pfc?

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...werrfc1025.html

Try out the second PFC if it's available for use to you, if it's still not right then i'd source a wiring diagram and find out what outputs go from the stock compuer to the lsd controller and check the signal out that is being sent. Then do the same for the PFC.

Id also do an onroad test as suggested earlier and see if it is working even though you have an error light. You may just have a dud output or a short on the warning light.

Hope you can sort it without reverting to tracing wires and checking signals, it's a horrible job!

Good luck

Attack? What attack?

I was just re-iterating our conversation in case you didn't remember parts of it.

I did read, but you weren't exactly clear on how or when you swapped out the stock ecu for the PowerFC, and what conditions your "test" was done... My method of troubleshooting rules out any other external influences and is a straight out troubleshooting test. You didn't say whether you did it like that, or had the stock ECU in for a a year, put in your new clutch and at the same time swapped out for the PowerFC, whatever... So I was making sure it was a controlled test and ruled out any other changes that might have possibly affected the HICAS.

If you don't want my help, that's fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...