Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have been looking at R31s, you DO have to remember to take into account that they are between 20-25 years old now...
Yeah, I think I might just have to give up on the idea.

And like I said in the post above yours, it's hard to find ones without problems and don't need a lot of work and maintenance.

Back to the drawing board. :D

They will require ongoing maintenance (as would the Stagea - or any car for that matter), but an R31 is a great first car and a good way to learn how to look after your car.

I had one as a second car (VH Commo was my first - I put it through hell for 4 years).

R31's have plenty of room to work on and a fairly large community here in Vic that can help out with any q's you have.

If you do go the R31 route, maybe talk to Classic Skyline's Australia (don't have their details on me), great group of guys/gals who really love their R31's.

As the others have said, wait until you are off your P's (do some driving courses during that time), then get your Stagea.

At the end of the day its up to him if he wants to head down the Stagea road or not... I've owned a VL Calais Turbo, VS HSV Senator and now the Nissan Stagea whilst on my P's and the only car i ever copped Police attendtion in was the VL.. Today i spotted a Red P Plater in a brand new Saab 93 2.0 Turbo and seen plenty of others in turbo's aswell... if you do decide to go a Steaga and get pulled over just keep a tube of anal lube in your glove box...

I'm guessing that one is being sold by Paul aka performance-wise on these forums.

ive said it before...

green stagea's are hideous

Hate to be rude,Rodney! Wash your mouth out.

Should I :D him, Hugh?

haha im sorry hugh

id like to apologise to all the fellow green stagea drivers out there

the lager said it,not me ;)

Hahaha, you're lucky! :)

my suggestion is

get a cheap car to as your first car as you willl most likely crash or damage it

learn how to drive

get off your P's and then get a turbo charged car

a stock stagea is slower than a V6 commodore or a 4L foulcan, its not some turbo RWD thing with a snappy chassis like an S13...(this is why mine is not stock)

I have never been pulled over in vic on my p's, this car was made to be steathy, and I would recommend it to a P plater... stealth exhaust, stock rims etc. I have been through defect busses on cruises and they asked me if i was with the other cars... To me, that passes the ninja test.

I have driven the stagea for the past 2years of my p's, and had stupid cars for the first year of my p's, if i could do it again, i would of had the stagea from day 1 of my p's. Its a safe car, with a sensible driver who listens to the car and doesnt let it do all the driving, they will be fine.

Just dont fit a cannon and bling rims!

Edited by RB_Ryan
a stock stagea is slower than a V6 commodore or a 4L foulcan, its not some turbo RWD thing with a snappy chassis like an S13...(this is why mine is not stock)

I have never been pulled over in vic on my p's, this car was made to be steathy, and I would recommend it to a P plater... stealth exhaust, stock rims etc. I have been through defect busses on cruises and they asked me if i was with the other cars... To me, that passes the ninja test.

I have driven the stagea for the past 2years of my p's, and had stupid cars for the first year of my p's, if i could do it again, i would of had the stagea from day 1 of my p's. Its a safe car, with a sensible driver who listens to the car and doesnt let it do all the driving, they will be fine.

Just dont fit a cannon and bling rims!

Bummed to see yours is a manual. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...