Stroker Kit Decisions

[SysLink67]

After research for a long time, looking at all the rebuild threads, stroker kit comparisons on SAU and other sites I'm still left thinking which kit....

I have chosen all the head parts, bearings etc etc just the kit.

Goal is to have a street response monster.

2.8L kit for extra cc to achieve faster spool and torque etc etc

I had decided on a HKS Step 2 config - for quality ans strength, but I have been reading response can suffer because they weight abit.

Then after reading atomicbombermans build thought his config would be excellent for response to.

I also just found this kit http://www.reimax.com/pages/products/block/index.html made by reimax- anyone had exp with kit of have in car?

Or going the full nismo route and the GT500 rods, pistons , crank etc etc...

I will be using the 28605-7 turbos.

Probably looking at 272 10.2 tomei cams

Anyone shed some light / direction...... EXP based would be best.

Cheers

Rob

[Finchy33]

No 3L???

[R.I.P.S NZ]

RB30.

[Duncan]

rb30....better at about 1/3 the price of an rb26 stroker. And if you like you can still people you have xyz brand crank because no-one will ever know once it is inside the block

[bradsm87]

That cam and turbo match is pretty wrong. Cams too big for the turbos ur using. Response AND power will suffer. If it's response ur after, the VERY biggest I'd go would be 260 degree 10.25mm lift but i think with a stroker and -7 or -9 turbos, ur already gonna max out the turbos with 256 cams so why not just go 256?

Don't use -7 turbos unless u already have em. The -9 turbos are much more efficient and continue to make power a fair bit further. -9's are pretty much a newer, better version. Same spool-up, more power.

[R31Nismoid]

For such small turbos - IMO the cost & effort simply is not justified.

It will already be silly in the response department, i think I've got a 4,500rpm range of solid area with GT-SS and stock 2.6ltr.

I also do not agree with the cam choice, too big.

Chucking on the biggest/best of everything does not equal the most response.

Stock rods & crank are beyond anything you will need for 330rwkw.

[SysLink67]

I mainly looking at the RB26 stroker choice due to hassel free upgrade, that is off the shelf no scouring for a block etc etc. I have no double that the RB30/26 is a monster.

I have currently 260 9.15 poncams running Garret 2860R-7's with all supporting mods and FC d-jettro.

I'm not really with this config. My aim is too build a very strong , reliable, high response street car.

The 2.8L is for extra CC to spool turbos quicker. The 272 cams were chosen to allow for more of an aggressive response.

Maybe my config I have in mind is wrong for my goal. Also I want it tough, as in HKS 2.8L config in case I want to chnage to a single top mount and also to be a very strong build. Or to go the stock 2.6 and use quality forge...

I thought the extra CC would allow me the extra flow without having to rev so hard.

Or should I go the same route as atomicbomberman and use lightweight crank etc etc

Any help for config Ideas would be welcomed.

Also anyone have exp or know much about the reimax stroker kit?

Cheers

Rob

[bradsm87]

I mainly looking at the RB26 stroker choice due to hassel free upgrade, that is off the shelf no scouring for a block etc etc. I have no double that the RB30/26 is a monster.

I have currently 260 9.15 poncams running Garret 2860R-7's with all supporting mods and FC d-jettro.

I'm not really with this config. My aim is too build a very strong , reliable, high response street car.

The 2.8L is for extra CC to spool turbos quicker. The 272 cams were chosen to allow for more of an aggressive response.

Maybe my config I have in mind is wrong for my goal. Also I want it tough, as in HKS 2.8L config in case I want to chnage to a single top mount and also to be a very strong build. Or to go the stock 2.6 and use quality forge...

I thought the extra CC would allow me the extra flow without having to rev so hard.

Or should I go the same route as atomicbomberman and use lightweight crank etc etc

Any help for config Ideas would be welcomed.

Also anyone have exp or know much about the reimax stroker kit?

Cheers

Rob

Those cams will go backwards for response. Keep what U have. 272 cams with -7 turbos is a terrible match. Also I forgot to mention, For HUGE response and drivability, go with about 9.5:1 compression ratio with the pistons and run low boost. Would make a crazy mean street machine with a stroker . I would recommend selling the turbos and buying some -9's but I can understand if that seems too much stuffing round. They WILL make more power with same or better response.

Edited August 24, 2009 by bradsm87

[bradsm87]

Just to put in into perspective, my mate makes 420AWKW with 260 degree cams. The bigger u go, the more response U lose.

[SysLink67]

So is a 2.8L plausible for a response car? Lets say my aim was 430AWKW single goal a strong built response monster.

With that AWKW goal in mind I thought the 2.8L would be more applicable.

Just need some direction..... so I can start my build asap.

[Fishpaste~]

I think you might need to do a bit more research before you go jumping into things... also if you have been getting advice from someone about your parts i think you need to consider a new sorce of information!

who is tuning your car for you??!?!? i'd start by asking them what they would recomend (unless they are the people that told you to get 270+ cams for a responce monster)

sourcing a block? i could point you in the direction of 3 or 4 sites that will supply you an RB30 bottom end (or even a fully built motor)

also you need to check some of your assumptions, like large cc helps responce. there are sooo many other things that effect responce i'm not even going to go into explaining it, but what cc does effect is the size of turbo you use.. just because your throwing more cc at a small turbo doesn't necisarily mean u'll get more responce

lastly, since your still a bit confused about the cams things i'll save you using the search button:

The answer on duration depends on what RPM range you are targetting, be realistic.

If you intend to use 7,000 to 9,500 rpm, something around 272 to 288 degrees would be the go.

For 5,500 to 8,000 rpm, around 260 to 272 and for 4,500 to 7,500 rpm then 248 to 260 is the go.

That's a simplification, but you get the idea. As for lift, once I know the effective rpm range,

I then choose the highest lift I can for that duration.

What valve springs you are using will also determine the maximum lift

thats from a long time member of these forums... so by using the 272's your saying you want your power to be somewhere around the 6k rpm mark?? responce monster, i think not =\

[unique1]

dont waste your money on stroker kits they are stupid expensive and the rb30 is better way to go unless you go the os giken 3L kit. I wish i went a RIPS rb30 and saved the money back when i built my jun 2.7l stroker motor. The stroker kit (just crank, rods and pistons) is worth as much as a complete built bottom end from RIPS which is complete and ready to go from what i can tell and is proven to hold over 1200hp.

for your goals i would save alot of money and have a better setup using a rb30 and a t04z, it will be perfect for 430awkw and have decent response too.

[Fishpaste~]

So is a 2.8L plausible for a response car? Lets say my aim was 430AWKW single goal a strong built response monster.

With that AWKW goal in mind I thought the 2.8L would be more applicable.

Just need some direction..... so I can start my build asap.

mebe you should look at the RB26 and RB30 dyno thread

430kw responce monster? how much extra do you think 200cc is going to really give you? and 430 out of -7's??? more reseach is needed, but i guess thats why you asked instead of looked? the information is there

RB30 is where you want to be... no point in even attempting the build u have mentioned as you'll just be broke and dissapointed (i'd almost liken it to paying for sex but finding out you got a ladyboy).

Edit: it might also be worth pointing out that reliable RB26 does not equal forged rods/crank/pistons... there is soooo much more than that

Edited August 24, 2009 by Fishpaste~

[SysLink67]

I understand that a reliable RB26 is more then forged rods, cranks and pistons.

As I have said I have been researching for along time and there seems to be so much information and mis-infomation as to what would be an excellant combo for a very strong 400AWKW engine that has a primary goal of achiving responce.

Head wise - I was going to go for port polish - ie some thing like a stage two ie porting and polish without going to drastic and removing the quish pads etc

Over size valves ie 1 ~ 1.5mm oversize etc etc mainly from supertech catalog

As for cams Like I had stated I wasn't too sure on what too pick.

Haven seen alot of RB30 results and all very impressive but theres a few aspects I don't like.

I have seen the results that Gav and John from WA have had and ant scali from xspeed also runs a 2.8L.

On the RB26thread there doesn't seem to be alot of people with 2.8l's showing results or many of then using / nismo or HKS lighten standard 2.6 config.

So very much in limbo atm......

[N I B]

I dont even go past 260 cams in my race engines. Ants 2.6 was a full second faster over the 1/4 than his 2.8 was.

The best RB26 blocked GTR I ever saw was a Tomei 2.8 with GT SS Turbos and 260 Tomei cams with all the right support parts, this car is owned by a guy that always had V8s and hated the lack of bottom end power the Stocker had, His order was build a package that you would build for your own car.

Response is amazing and the car would eat much wilder cars.

[bubba]

Didn't Ant's 2.8 have trouble getting a clean pass down the 1/4 due to clutches?

[Beer Baron]

there is nothing wrong with a good jap 2.8 kit. Some of the most impressive RB set-ups I've been in have been jap built 2.8s. there are lots of them running around in japan and there are a few that stick in my mind.

I agree with NIB that if you wanted wicked response a HKS or tomei 2.8 with mild headwork (skip the oversize valves for your application), mild-ish cams, some GT-SS or even 2530s and some agressive tuning it would be a pretty serious piece of gear. outright peak power tells bugger all of the story. case in point. R35 GTR makes peak power of 300awkw.... I know lots of GTRs making peak power of 300awkw but none of them hold a candle to the 35 in either straight line or circuit. that's because peak power is only a number at one single RPM point. if you looked at say 50rpm points from 3,000rpm to peak the R35 I bet would have miles more power than the 300awkw R32 at every point. and that's where the race is won and lost.

There are now some good RB30s out there, but lots of the earlier ones I was in did not impress me as much as I would have hoped. a lot of that though was down to all the other components in the build as most of those owners went RB30 as it was the cheap way out and they took the cheap way out in other areas too and it showed. where as typically the guys who are willing to pay up on a jap 2.8 are also willing to do everything else 100% right.

The 30 is undeniably good value but it does change the nature of the engine a fair bit. and don't forget to factor in sump adapter, mods for clearance etc. and the fact that you are changing the block has rego implications too.

there is a third option which I like a lot, and my example would be Mark and Russ's R32 engine. it was using a standard size block (but a GT block). with a beautiful full forged, full counter tomei 2.6L crank, good rods and pistons, largish cams and good head gear, ported head, small-ish turbos (garret 2530 sized), lots of boost, and it was mega responsive and make ample power. there is obviously a little more to it than that, but that's the basic package. it was and still is one of the fastest circuit GTRs in the country. Hell it's even in the top 10 drag GTRs in full circuit config.

[Beer Baron]

have a look at proengines RB30 packages. If I was doing a 30, I would be getting it from greg no doubt. he's built a number of engines for friends and people that I have referred to him and they have all been happy. he's a smart guy and charges fair rates for his standard of work. considering that for about $8000 you can have a built 30 bottom end complete with his own sump adapter ready to go it's not bad value. I would then look at one of those endyn or bullet CNC heads (go the OS valves on the 30 for sure). get that sent to greg too, decide on cams, add some valve springs etc and get him to bolt the whole thing together. around $12-$14K would see you with a complete top notch forged, 2630 with a sweet head. bolt on a set of 2530s and enjoy 400awkw and very decent response.

a top notch 26 will work out about the same price.

a top notch HKS or tomei 2.8 about the same price too.

$15,000 is what it will realistically cost to get a top level GTR engine no matter what the capacity.

[SimonR32]

I dont even go past 260 cams in my race engines. Ants 2.6 was a full second faster over the 1/4 than his 2.8 was.

your a idiot!

[discopotato03]

Don't know if this idea is a silly one but .

Is there any oxygen in having a spacer plate made up fitted and bore the whole lot for thin walled liners ?

If the idea flew you could keep your block number and retain its piston oil squirters , do the usual with an RB30 crank and rods and have your three liters ?

Thoughts , cheers A .