Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys I'd like to replace my factory water temperature probe/sensor ..the one that sits near the coolant bleed screw at the front of the engine. The reason for this it's reporting temps to the ecu (confirmed via consult) higher than my aftermarket gauge which has a temp sensor measuring temps on the same radiator hose only about 20cm distance from the factory one...

It's for an R34 GTT (rb25det NEO) .. if anyone knows the nissan part # and approx. cost please do tell Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284792-factory-water-temp-probesensor/
Share on other sites

I got this part # from nissan over the phone .. 22630-44b20 Googling for it, it does look like the right part. The nissan guy I spoke did mention there's another 'sender' unit for the actual dashcluster gauge, does anyone know where this one is located? I changed my thermostat the other day and didn't notice it there anywhere

there's another 'sender' unit for the actual dashcluster gauge, does anyone know where this one is located? I changed my thermostat the other day and didn't notice it there anywhere
It should be right beside the ECU temp sender - it's the one with a single pin connection.

I think its really unlikely there is a problem with a coolant temp sensor, they are a very simple thing. Is it well grounded? Any sign of trouble with the wiring (check continuity to both ends of the wire).

Much more likely the new gauge is wrong (probably not well earthed) than the standard one being wrong.

And the new sender is in the return hose to the radiator, not the one from the radiator right>

what do you mean by continuity? the other end of the wire is on the ecu loom ...

I've earthed the new gauge properly ..even had a sparky run a secondary ground to battery from the sensor. Both the factory sensor and my aftermarket one are on the top left radiator hose (inlet?) - 20cm distance between them. I will be replacing the factory sensor tommorow so I'll know soon enough if that was the issue :)

well it wasn't the factory coolant sensor ..$100 down the drain :P

The new ECT sensor shows the same temps as the previous stocko one .. still about 10 degrees Celsius difference between the factory and aftermarket sensor grrr. Gonna check with a sparky to see about the stocko sensor wiring...

sorry very slow response. anyway checking the continuity of a wire makes sure there is no break hidden in the loom somewhere.

these senders work by increasing resistance to earth as they get hotter. if earth is bad they will give wrong reading (too low) which is the most common. If not that, problem in the wiring between gauge and sender. If not that bad power or earth to the gauge. Inany case an auto sparky should be able to sort it.

thanks mate that really helps :laugh:

I've already figured out that my ecu factory sender was OK ..my cooling system temps have come down significantly since upgrading radiator/fan clutch.

My aftermarket gauge is still WAAAY off though but I just remembered I did one hell of a hack job on the power/earth connection to the actual gauge as the original connector broke and I had to improvise. Will need to fix that and I reckon the aftermarket gauge will be spot on just like the ecu one. Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...