Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm currently in negotiations to buy a V35 line, owner of the car says that he bought it in Sydney and had it shipped to Perth and now has WA rego.

What documents should I request for to make/verify that this car

1. Legit

2. Easier to sell in future

3. Easier to get finance approval

4. get a bit of background history of the car

5. hasnt been in a major accident/insurance claim in Sydney?? << does a REVS check span across state borders?

also appreciate if you could tell me what other important things I've missed out.

Thanks all.

Hi all,

I'm currently in negotiations to buy a V35 line, owner of the car says that he bought it in Sydney and had it shipped to Perth and now has WA rego.

What documents should I request for to make/verify that this car

1. Legit

2. Easier to sell in future

3. Easier to get finance approval

4. get a bit of background history of the car

5. hasnt been in a major accident/insurance claim in Sydney?? << does a REVS check span across state borders?

also appreciate if you could tell me what other important things I've missed out.

Thanks all.

Start at the beginning and work your way forward.

1. The Japanese de-registration papers

2. Invoice from the japanese seller

2. Docs to prove it was brought into the country the normal way - ie, on a boat (invoice for shipping)

3. Registration papers from NSW

4. De-registration papers from NSW (does NSW issue this?)

5. Registration papers for WA (duh)

6. REVS check - you can get this yourself for a fee - get the rego number and the VIN.

I have a wad of paperwork from when I brought my car. If the guy you are buying from is the first aussie owner, he should have something similar.

Start at the beginning and work your way forward.

1. The Japanese de-registration papers

2. Invoice from the japanese seller

2. Docs to prove it was brought into the country the normal way - ie, on a boat (invoice for shipping)

3. Registration papers from NSW

4. De-registration papers from NSW (does NSW issue this?)

5. Registration papers for WA (duh)

6. REVS check - you can get this yourself for a fee - get the rego number and the VIN.

I have a wad of paperwork from when I brought my car. If the guy you are buying from is the first aussie owner, he should have something similar.

Thanks man. Looks like he's only got 5 &6 at the moment. Think I'll give this car a pass and look some more.

For the WA Rego side of things - ask the current owner for the current regoistration papers for the vehicle so you can see the engine/VIN number, when the registration expires and the current owners full details.

If he is a legitimate seller, he should have no problems getting these papers and showing/giving them to you.

For a REVS check you need the engine #, VIN # and registration number. REVS phone # 1300 304 024.

When you call REVS, they will advise you if there is any outstanding monies owing on the vehicle (loans, speeding/parking fines, anything). However, if there are speeding/parking fines, they stay with the owner and in the state they were incurred. Only monies owing to financial institutions will stay with the vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...