Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm currently in negotiations to buy a V35 line, owner of the car says that he bought it in Sydney and had it shipped to Perth and now has WA rego.

What documents should I request for to make/verify that this car

1. Legit

2. Easier to sell in future

3. Easier to get finance approval

4. get a bit of background history of the car

5. hasnt been in a major accident/insurance claim in Sydney?? << does a REVS check span across state borders?

also appreciate if you could tell me what other important things I've missed out.

Thanks all.

Hi all,

I'm currently in negotiations to buy a V35 line, owner of the car says that he bought it in Sydney and had it shipped to Perth and now has WA rego.

What documents should I request for to make/verify that this car

1. Legit

2. Easier to sell in future

3. Easier to get finance approval

4. get a bit of background history of the car

5. hasnt been in a major accident/insurance claim in Sydney?? << does a REVS check span across state borders?

also appreciate if you could tell me what other important things I've missed out.

Thanks all.

Start at the beginning and work your way forward.

1. The Japanese de-registration papers

2. Invoice from the japanese seller

2. Docs to prove it was brought into the country the normal way - ie, on a boat (invoice for shipping)

3. Registration papers from NSW

4. De-registration papers from NSW (does NSW issue this?)

5. Registration papers for WA (duh)

6. REVS check - you can get this yourself for a fee - get the rego number and the VIN.

I have a wad of paperwork from when I brought my car. If the guy you are buying from is the first aussie owner, he should have something similar.

Start at the beginning and work your way forward.

1. The Japanese de-registration papers

2. Invoice from the japanese seller

2. Docs to prove it was brought into the country the normal way - ie, on a boat (invoice for shipping)

3. Registration papers from NSW

4. De-registration papers from NSW (does NSW issue this?)

5. Registration papers for WA (duh)

6. REVS check - you can get this yourself for a fee - get the rego number and the VIN.

I have a wad of paperwork from when I brought my car. If the guy you are buying from is the first aussie owner, he should have something similar.

Thanks man. Looks like he's only got 5 &6 at the moment. Think I'll give this car a pass and look some more.

For the WA Rego side of things - ask the current owner for the current regoistration papers for the vehicle so you can see the engine/VIN number, when the registration expires and the current owners full details.

If he is a legitimate seller, he should have no problems getting these papers and showing/giving them to you.

For a REVS check you need the engine #, VIN # and registration number. REVS phone # 1300 304 024.

When you call REVS, they will advise you if there is any outstanding monies owing on the vehicle (loans, speeding/parking fines, anything). However, if there are speeding/parking fines, they stay with the owner and in the state they were incurred. Only monies owing to financial institutions will stay with the vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...