Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so my r34 neo is overdue for a cambelt change, and im just curious how hard it is to do on your own??? im assuming ill also need to replace the tensioner pulley aswell

does anything besides the timing cover need to be taken off, like any of the other belts to allow easier access?

how easy to the cam gears turn once the belt is off? i know i shud make a reference mark on them incase they move but they shouldnt move cos all the engine internals will be holding them inplace right?

maybe its actually a really hard job and cant or shouldnt be done yourself, im just curious and always keen to save money on labour when possible

thanks in advance for any advice!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285022-cambelt-change-diy/
Share on other sites

its fairly simple but time consuming. you have to remove all belts and balancer. i removed the rad so it gave me a little more space to move in. once you remove the balancer, take the bottom belt cover off (4x10mm bolts from memory) and its pretty straight forward from there. i know when i did my 20, there were marks behind the cams and a mark on the bottom gear (you'll see it all when its all apart).

sorry for being so vague, its been a while since i did it last. if it was me id be replacing both idle and tension bearing bolts to be on the safe side. i had the idle bearing bolt brake on me at a track day resulting in a blown engine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...