Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Master Cylinder Leaking...

AdMan
 Share

Recommended Posts

AdMan Collaborator

AdMan

Posted
Posted

Its been happening for quite a while now, was fine when driving the car... just topped it up and all was well. Can see it peeling the paint off the booster.

Since defect it sat for 3 weeks, (completely forgot about it) which gave it long enough time to completely empty itself. Now with air in the system, brakes are useless.. So cant drive it to get repaired...

So my question is, should I just take it off & get the seals redone? Or is there more to it then that. Or just buy a completely different unit? Anyone here that can vouch for a place to do it? Was going to just bleed the brakes and put new stuff through it, but seeing as its gonna do it again anyway.. might as well do it once, and do it properly. :)

I would take it off myself, never really looked at the thing so just wondering if its an easy task...

Thanks.. much appreciated. :)

Adam..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285023-brake-master-cylinder-leaking/
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

both, i could be wrong and R34's for some reason are stupidly expensive, but to give u an idea i paid under $100 for mine in the 32.

i deal with all clutch and brake down here in SA, maybe try them and see if they can send u something.

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
Posted

i just rang nissan here in brisbane they want $460 for a R32 new brake master cylinder and around $190 for a rebuild kit

i'm a bit weary of the rebuild kit though, i really can't be f**ked pulling it apart once to see if it has scoring along the barrel then trying to put it back together so i can drive my car in the 10 days i need to wait for either one depending on the condition of the barrel to come from Japan

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

http://www.autobrakeservice.com.au/index.php

Still have the baggie, it was sitting in my rubbish for when I clear away that area..

protex 210J0159 is what is on the label.. Make sure it is the 1" master, and I can't remember if it was the nabuko or tokiko, think it was nabuko..

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

Remove the master cylinder, pull it apart, follow the workshop manual, easy as.. make sure everything is sparkling clean, you don't want any little bit of dirt getting in there. after you remove the piston assembly you can shine a torch in there and you will be able to see if there has been any corrosion, contamination, scoring, etc. In my case it was just old seals that lost tension.

Brakes are better than they have ever been. Transfer case clutchpack decided to die shortly after as well, never ends.

Edited by heller44
Mr GTR-32 Community Regular

Mr GTR-32

Posted
Posted

Thanks a million Heller44 for you info this will help me alot and hopefully keep my wallet alot heavier as well :( and yes it never ends a love hate relationship.

Cheers,

Dave

Remove the master cylinder, pull it apart, follow the workshop manual, easy as.. make sure everything is sparkling clean, you don't want any little bit of dirt getting in there. after you remove the piston assembly you can shine a torch in there and you will be able to see if there has been any corrosion, contamination, scoring, etc. In my case it was just old seals that lost tension.

Brakes are better than they have ever been. Transfer case clutchpack decided to die shortly after as well, never ends.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Excuse me, but 2) does apply 1) Would also apply if you consider how much is spent in the alternatives. Also there's the option of 3), buy one pre-built that you can put your family in (it's me, it's my car)   That said, I went on a ~500km drive the other day. I didn't use anything more adventurous than 3rd/4th gear at about ~3000RPM and 50% throttle and I was going as fast as anyone has any sense doing on a public road, with enough grip to the point where I didn't want to go any faster. I was obviously under the limit of the current car etc etc. MX5 with 2.5 N/A to achieve the same speed would be more fun for any road scenario. Maybe consider cams. I wouldn't boost it. The use case is just not there and it won't actually make the car more enjoyable unless you really do plan on wringing gears from 1st to 3rd (at least) at 100% WOT on a public road to 150+kmh.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Great if: 1. You had all of the money for everything else that is required  2. Lived in a country where you could actually do this and drive it legally on the road Sadly, neither applies to me As for the turbo, I am having second thoughts, mainly for engineering/registration legality reasons and insurance  Not saying I've finished doing stupid things that I probably should do to the MX5, but boost, and V8 engine swaps isn't on the cards Strange, but true 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I like this page, better than that silly turbo kit   https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      That would be my Shoei helmet
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Yes shipping here can be a pain, was about to purchase timing belt replacement kit, but it tends to get expensive due to shipping (and customs if importing from non-EU which the UK now falls under).
×
×
  • Create New...