Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

just wondering if someone can help me identify what a hose does and what i can do with it when i put in a pod filter.

the hose i am talking about is connected to the right hand side of the filter box and apparently connects to some kind of sensor according to one of the guys at autobarn who had a quick look for me.

i will try to get some pictures to help tomorrow or next monday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285037-r34-pod-modification/
Share on other sites

I believe I know which one you're talking about. It's a vacuum line.

There's a vacuum assembly towards the back of the engine, two vacuum lines run together past near the power steering reservoir, one of them goes into the airbox, the other one keeps going down to the charcoal canister. The one that goes to the airbox just needs to be tucked away when you remove the box to fit a pod.

Don't block this vacuum line! This vacuum line ultimately connects to the variable air intake control actuator in the intake plenum on RB25DE NEO's. Basically when you look at the intake plenum where the Y piece connects to it, you'll see the rod for the solenoid. Inside the middle of the plenum is a butterfly valve that partially separates the intake into 2 parts. At around 4700RPM this valve in the plenum opens completely. This is to assist with response in the low RPM on the N/A RB25DE NEO Motors. If this vacuum line is blocked, this valve won't function properly and power will be lost. Tucking it out of the way and removing the airbox for fitment of the pod won't effect anything, so long as the vacuum line isn't blocked.

Edited by N-DAWG
I believe I know which one you're talking about. It's a vacuum line.

There's a vacuum assembly towards the back of the engine, two vacuum lines run together past near the power steering reservoir, one of them goes into the airbox, the other one keeps going down to the charcoal canister. The one that goes to the airbox just needs to be tucked away when you remove the box to fit a pod.

Don't block this vacuum line! This vacuum line ultimately connects to the variable valve solenoid in the intake plenum on RB25DE NEO's. Basically when you look at the intake plenum where the Y piece connects to it, you'll see the rod for the solenoid. Inside the middle of the plenum is a butterfly valve that partially separates the intake into 2 parts. At around 4700RPM this valve in the plenum opens completely. This is to assist with response in the low RPM on the N/A RB25DE NEO Motors. If this vacuum line is blocked, this valve won't function properly and power will be lost. Tucking it out of the way and removing the airbox for fitment of the pod won't effect anything, so long as the vacuum line isn't blocked.

thank you for the reply.

so if i understand correctly as long as i do not block it in anyway i do not have to connect it to anything once i fit the pod?

  • 2 years later...

I believe I know which one you're talking about. It's a vacuum line.

There's a vacuum assembly towards the back of the engine, two vacuum lines run together past near the power steering reservoir, one of them goes into the airbox, the other one keeps going down to the charcoal canister. The one that goes to the airbox just needs to be tucked away when you remove the box to fit a pod.

Don't block this vacuum line! This vacuum line ultimately connects to the variable air intake control actuator in the intake plenum on RB25DE NEO's. Basically when you look at the intake plenum where the Y piece connects to it, you'll see the rod for the solenoid. Inside the middle of the plenum is a butterfly valve that partially separates the intake into 2 parts. At around 4700RPM this valve in the plenum opens completely. This is to assist with response in the low RPM on the N/A RB25DE NEO Motors. If this vacuum line is blocked, this valve won't function properly and power will be lost. Tucking it out of the way and removing the airbox for fitment of the pod won't effect anything, so long as the vacuum line isn't blocked.

what number is it on the diagram?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...