Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Knore,

Do you mean EVERYTHING? As in all internal engine work, bolt-ons (turbo, FMIC etc...) & all lines polishing and so on...??? If so I'd take a few months at a rough guess. Sourcing all the parts, getting the time to do the work & then setting everything up can easily blow out to faaar longer though!

If you mean just the appearance stuff, then ~2-3wks.

All the best with it, which ever way you decide to go mate.

Hip,

Naa not finished yet. Still got a few more little things up my sleeve. The fuel lines & Speedflow fittings are yet to be done (see f/hose on inner LHS guard). The polished turbine heat shield is yet to go on. A few more silicon lines, new stainless clamps etc... Polished radiator air guide. New seats will go in early in the new yr too.

The list is endless...... :)

f*ck your cars clean whatsisname!

ohh you missed a spot on the firewall just behind the turbo :)

Doh! LOL :) Nice pick up! That's an area normally obscured by the dump pipe (off ATM being modified) Thanks for pointing it out, I'll give the area a once over :)

Mattress-The car is looking sweet dude.Are you still going to fit the Ricermatic? :D  :)  

           -congrats on the posting aswell.Damn that means i have to put up with Tania for a lot longer! :)  :)  

catch up with ya soon

G'day Matty,

Thanks dude :)

Mate I might go with 3 x Ricermatics, should be good for 15-20rwkw each! :)

Yeah we're stoked on the posting/promotion. More $$$, a nice fat lump sum payment, & best of all 3+yrs more in the defect capital of OZ - Adelaide.

You'll have to put up with Tan & me :D Well you see me & put up with Tan :) hahaha

Cheers mate.

Here's the new pic -

mypic16.jpg

No coolant, just water for the run in phase.

It'll go straight on the dyno, but only for a basic check & a bit of load to help with ring bed in.

It'll be a few wks before any serious dyno work takes place.

I've just put 700 kms on mine - It's sweet as ! Has the best exhaust note eva and power - sheeez - Only running 9 PSI and I reckon it has more power than the old motor running 14 PSI.

Yeah - same re Serious Dyno work !

Hope to hear about your results soon whatsisname.

Cheers,

Joel, I have found they tend they start to feel more responsive, rev easier and pull harder, but I have only run in 2 engines, and it could be a case of wishful thinking.

Then again, I rode my brothers new bike (picked it up), then again in a couple of months and it definately felt alot more responsive.

I hadn't actually Hip! :D

Edit - Ok... you busted me Steve :D

Well I picked the car up yesterday (15Dec) & after 80k’s it already feels soooo good to be driving a Skyline again! The down side is having to do 2000k's of painfully tame running in mileage :)

The engine starts & runs as if it were still stock on the inside (nice & smooth - nil piston slap). It actually feels "more" responsive than I recall, possibly helped by a dump pipe change & lighter reciprocating mass. It also still has plenty of RB25DET off-boost torque, something I’ll be using a lot in the next few 1000k’s.

I might see a few of you in the hills in the coming wks, I’ll be the one driving very sedately: )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...