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Hey guys,

I'd just like to say thanks for the advice given in regards to my questions about the TD06 stuff in the other thread, based on that and a fair few hours searching I decided to purchase a GT3076r instead as it appears it will be cheaper and easier in a number of ways including installation, while still giving the output I desire, or close to.

I just want to check everything is all ok, as my knowledge of this stuff is pretty minuscule compared to others.

It is an external gate, I asked for a .82 housing but apparently that was going to be too laggy, so i got a .63 rear housing instead.

I ordered an anti surge compressor housing, which it came with, just wanted to ask what this component is as i have not seen it in pictures on the net (see below) and I am assuming it is necessary not just an option to put on?

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I was told (and from what I have searched) this turbo will be quite responsive, and put out a substantial amount of power.... roughly 270-280rwkw on about 17psi with supporting mods?

Also, I need 4 longer studs for this to suit the 10mm spacer.. anyone know a place? or the part number or dimensions I need to ask for?

And a final question, what size oil feed line do I need and oil feed bolt?

Thanks, and sorry for the multiple questions, just want to make sure I got the "right one".

Adam

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the optional thingy you have just covers up the surge slots. up to you whether you want to use it or not, will work fine either way.

power will depend on the dyno and the car etc but 270-280rwkw sounds about right.

for the longer studs i just got some from metric man, the thread on the manifold side of the stud is different (cant remember what it is) so make sure you pull one out and take it with you

WYTSKY I have tried for ages to get someone to take pics of the fasteners (grub screws) that hold the funnel mouthed insert in the port shrouded compressor housings .

Can you possibly take a picture of the side of the insert so we can see what the profile of it is like . I'm curious if they have holes or dimples that the three grub screws butt up against .

Also if possible a close up of the grub screws by themselves , I gather they're allen or hex head grub screws .

From what the ID tag says it's a HKS spec Garrett GT3037 56T which is the same as a Garrett GT3076R 56T .

They both start out as turbo assembly no 700382-12 but HKS fit that bell mouthed insert and one of their custom turbine housings and call it a 3037 .

So yes , it's the right one . If it came through a Garrett dealer I'm surprised it has the insert and screws .

Cheers A .

How can you tell from the ID tag that its HKS spec? It looks identical to what I remember mine looking like.

Interesting the .63 is considered more responsive than the .82, on mine there was barely a perceptible difference!

I'm guessing the GT3037S-56T on the tag led to that comment.

Mine also has that tag, it's just what Honeywell apply in the factory. Same item as supplied to HKS, so it really is HKS spec too :)

Good choice BTW Adam. What are you going to use for an exhaust manifold?

Regarding studs, they come as a 10 x 1.5 / 10 x 1.25 combination. Don't fall into the trap of using double ended 1.5 thread pitch. Not a good enough pull down on the gasket, and probable poor seal in the longer term.

Edited by Dale FZ1

Yes both are the same thing . The only difference I've ever noticed is that early HKS ones had BSK1 cast into the compressor housing instead of KTT1 . I believe the difference is the angle of the compressor housings outlet , the BSK1 is at a slightly more acute radius away from the volute so maybe a slightly more compact plumbing option . The HKS bling (blue) tagged ones nowdays use the KTT1 housing as well .

What Garrett originally marketed themselves was not a 3037 as in the 37 or GT37 series compressor wheel , the T series compressor was ~ 76mm OD and used the T04S compressor housing .

The most important thing on the tag is the 700382-12 assembly part number , it means the same thing as 3037S-56T .

My lists of HKS apps also show turbo number 700382-11 which uses the same cartridge (meaning the same compressor) and I'm going to assume it means 3037 , no "S" , so std non port shrouded compressor housing . Other lists I have confirm the non "S" variants as having a 70mm inlet boss vs the S types 100mm one .

Cheers A .

Must remember one day to chase up the 48T versions availability , pretty sure they were 700382-5 and cartridge 700177-5 .

Only one type listed and non ported comp housing , shows same 420 PS output as 2835R and 2835 Pro S and gut feeling tells me it's what the GT3071R should have been .

Edited by discopotato03
Also, I need 4 longer studs for this to suit the 10mm spacer.. anyone know a place? or the part number or dimensions I need to ask for?

Adam

I have just purchased a full fitment kit for a gt3076r IW

The spacer plate will only be needed if using a standard cast manifold

Since yoo have a external gate, you have to use an aftermarket manifold. As previously asked, what make manifold have you got?

Have you trail fitted the turbo to it to see if it hits the new manifold? If you need long bolts, the only place I found was GCG. $36 set with nuts.

Thanks for the input guys, makes me feel at ease ;)

I bought it from Japwarehouse in Melbourne, who got it off their offiical Garrett/Honeywell distributer, Dave was really friendly and helpful and it came the next day!

He believed with a .82 that full boost would be on at about 4,000-4,500 and the .63 at about 3,400-3,500, so i wanted better response.

So if i want anti surge I am meant to take this funnel off?

Disco,Pics are bellow, Tell me if u need any more, this wont be on my car for atleast a month...Yes, they are allen key type, and the funnel DOES NOT have any dimples, or holes for them, the bottom of the fasteners just look like they grab the funnel, but there is and edge surrounding it so it can't slip in or out...

Dale, thanks for the help with the studs and pm, just doubling what I said in the pm:

I have been told I do not need a hks manifold for my application and modifying the stock manifold would be fine. What do you guys think? the only concern i have is if the welds crack if they use a different metal to the manifold that reacts and expands differently to heat and then cracks... but if I get an aftermarket manifold it would be low mount.

I was looking at putting a Tial 44mm gate with it, so as not to get boost creep as I believe it would be large enough?

Cheers,

Adam

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So if i want anti surge I am meant to take this funnel off?

Adam

You will have anti-surge regardless of whether or not you fit the funnel. With the funnel on, the surge path comes back out through the circumferencial slot created between the outer edge of the funnel and the inner intake edge of the compressor cover as depicted in the pics in your initial post. The air will then recirculate back into the funnel mouth.

Edited by juggernaut1
He believed with a .82 that full boost would be on at about 4,000-4,500 and the .63 at about 3,400-3,500, so i wanted better response.

So if i want anti surge I am meant to take this funnel off?

I have been told I do not need a hks manifold for my application and modifying the stock manifold would be fine. What do you guys think? the only concern i have is if the welds crack if they use a different metal to the manifold that reacts and expands differently to heat and then cracks... but if I get an aftermarket manifold it would be low mount.

I was looking at putting a Tial 44mm gate with it, so as not to get boost creep as I believe it would be large enough?

Hmm I had a .63a/r turbine housing and wasn't really happy with the amount of exhaust manifold pressure I was getting - not to say it was a big problem but not ideal, especially if you are going to shoot for near 300rwkw. I am running a .82a/r internal gate and am making 1bar by 3500rpm.

Don't modify the factory manifold, in my opinion - you get an uneven feed to the wastegate and it can also cause havoc with the exhaust flow. I would either run a spacer with a wastegate feed off it, or modify the turbine housing with a feed to the internal gate. I reckon the 44mm will be a winner.

The .82 wont be that much laggier. GT35Rs hit full boost at around 4300-4500rpm.

My 3076 is a .82 at hits 25psi at 3800rpm.

If you are only aiming for 270rwkw then the .63 is a good choice.

With the manifold your cheaper option will be the stainless china jobbies. The best ones ive seen are Tune Agent slash GCG type ones.

Then there is ETM or 6BOOST for the custom steam pipe ones. A little more expensive but worth every penny.

To my understanding that funnel is to keep the spool noise down a little and to funnel the direction of incoming air.

LOL, good buy. But 25G will still smash it :P

In power or spool? Would love to see dyno plots of such a setup as I have always been a bit curious. I doubt spool as a mate has a 20G on his RB25 and it spools about the same as mine, and needs a little more boost to make a couple kw less.

dont external gates spool quicker then an internal

Im currently doing the external gate mod to mine now

Kyle from 6boost is modifying the housing so I can run an external gate

my old setup was the .73 internal gate and it was sloppy with the boost

where as im hoping the new .82 external gate will be a bit friendlier with both power and response

The .82 wont be that much laggier. GT35Rs hit full boost at around 4300-4500rpm.

My 3076 is a .82 at hits 25psi at 3800rpm.

If you are only aiming for 270rwkw then the .63 is a good choice.

With the manifold your cheaper option will be the stainless china jobbies. The best ones ive seen are Tune Agent slash GCG type ones.

Then there is ETM or 6BOOST for the custom steam pipe ones. A little more expensive but worth every penny.

To my understanding that funnel is to keep the spool noise down a little and to funnel the direction of incoming air.

Thats pretty good response, and a ton of pressure! but yeh, i'd say for now i'd like to cap psi to about 15-16 max and no more then 270rwkw... I can always change the exhaust housing later.... but given the compression ratio of the n/a motor and the fact it is not forged yet and its my only car... saftey of the motor would appear to be more important.

I would want something decent and low mount if I have to get a manifold and I want to do this right, so yeh HKS, or 6boost or something up there... Lithium's got me a bit worried. :P

LOL, good buy. But 25G will still smash it :D

haha, thanks for the input :D U know I would have gone down that route if I had the time and money to get it hooked up... gl with it though.

I would want something decent and low mount if I have to get a manifold and I want to do this right, so yeh HKS, or 6boost or something up there... Lithium's got me a bit worried. :P

My bad, which bit did I worry you with? In terms of wastegate placement I just warned you off one way and recommended two better ones - off the turbine housing is near the best setup you could do, so long as you're not too vain.

The only thing I'd be worried about is .63a/r hot side on an NA motor, you're potentially going to be quite timing limited.

I've got one with a HKS cast low mount, good turbo, bit lazy at 270rwkw though.

They have good potential to for +300, but you need a built motor, head gasket, or WMI to eliminate knock. But I like the headroom, lets you play and progress the power without having to change turbo's too soon. Only change I would have made was to the larger 0.82 exhaust side, the 0.63 may be more responsive, but it is also more restrictive - you loose your headroom.

And Disco, I didn't know you wanted pics of the cover, I've got one sitting on my shed bench, never used it, could have taken pics any time - hell you can borrow it if you want.

sort of on the topic of the thread, but im wondering how on earth do i make the 3076r not as loud when spooling, its giving me the shits and sounds pretty annoying (that sounds only good on a 450rwkw setup not a 280rwkw one haha), its on an rb30 and its whistling its head off at under 2000rpm on normal acceleration when driving in traffic.

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