Dished Wheel, Boost Gauges X2, Bov X2
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I joined this group years ago when I got my hands on an R33 GTS-T and was excited to get some mods on it. Unfortunately, I had to do the adult thing and sell it to buy a house. Fast-forward six years later, and I have been blessed to be in a position to buy an R33 GTR next year. I am getting close to buying my dream car, I would like to get the community's advice on modifications. I have researched mods in the past but I feel newer and better things have come out since then (2018). Goals: I would like to have a 400-500hp daily driver. I would also like to get the engine dressed up (Wire tucks, rocker cover pain etc etc). I would also like to use it for track days but more for fun rather than competitions. I am moving to Brisbane, Australia so any good mod garage recommendations in the area would be appreciated. -
Thanks everyone for the replies/suggestions on my issue here. I'm still trying to diagnose the root cause of this. Things I have done so far: A week ago, I disconnected my 12v constant relay mod and returned it to the stock FPCM wiring: I could hear the sound of the fuel priming was different because of the FPCM limiting the amount of volts going to the fuel pump. From memory I think it also primed to 43psi. It was very hard to start it. I don't think from memory I could start it at all. I had to then ground the fuel pump to the chassie and then it could start after a couple of cranks. Fuel pressure did drop a bit to about 45psi (i think). It was idling even worse than before. 🤔 It was also doing the same weird RPM tacho thing. So I've returned it back to the constant 12v relay mod for now as I investigate more. Right now, I'm in the process of deleting my aftermarket immobilizer, an old Japanese turbo timer, and another aftermarket transponder immobilizer that the previous owners put in years ago (from sexspec days). Just curious to see if this whole bird nest would cause some weird electrical problems. The Viper 5900 immobilizer stopped working a few years ago, and I pulled out the main fuse on it years ago to stop it from being a parasitic battery drain and I haven't bothered to clean up the mess there, so now is a good time to. There was a RPM signal wire that spliced into the RPM tacho signal from the ECU harness. I've taken it out. I've already pulled out the Viper immobilizer and returned all the joints wires/splices back to factory. I let the car idle and it's still the same idle and RPM tacho idle issue. Now I'm going to delete the turbo timer and the other key transponder immobilizer (autowatch) and return splicing/wiring back to factory setup. Just to see if this might be causing some electrical issues. It might not, but I just want to get rid of it anyway. True!, I was actually thinking this the other day. I will check with another new vac line to make sure this is not the issue. This is actually on my to-do list, and you might be right, this might be a shit batch of fuel because I filled the tank up to 3/4 full from near empty, then I went to the shops and it happened straight after that. I've always filled up from this servo for years with no problems, but yeah might be my first batch ever batch of shit fuel from them. Will be doing this next when I get my hands on a container/jerry can. I just didn't think to do this straight away because it doesn't really explain why the tacho RPM thing is happening. Maybe I'll chuck some injector cleaner in the new batch too? -
The videos on Youtube look terrible, they don't seem to do much to a fire at all. I wanted to replace the extinguisher in my car with something smaller but I might hang off this move until there's good evidence. -
I'm a frustrated audiophile. My "listening room" is also the big TV/movie room. So the stereo speakers are also the front pair for the surround. They are Ascension Summoners, by Adelaide Speakers. The guy who runs Adelaide Speakers designed and built for a couple of the renowned speaker manufacturers that were based in SA back in the day. The centre channel ends up looking a lot like yours. It's the same driver setup as this type But I got him to put them into a sideways oriented cab the same size as the side/rears I got. The fronts are flat down to ~20Hz, so I don't have a sub. This is all driven by a very high end Pioneer receiver - so nice but nothing special. And worse, because the fronts can draw so much power at high volume levels, the bloody amp goes into self protection and shuts down if you turn it up too high. 8 ohm nominal can easily mean 6 and modern consumer oriented amplifiers are not as well reinforced on the supply side as they could be. I keep meaning to do something about it, but somewhat like my earlier obsession with DSLRs and Lenvy, I actively resisted dropping more money in there until the urge decreased. If I keep listening to music at really high volume levels I'll just cut more notches in my hearing anyway. They one at 6kHz is bad enough - I need to behave myself now. -
After a few weeks with the new layout, I'm thinking.... Change "Engines & Forced Induction" to "Brooom brooom pssht!" Change "Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain" to "Rattle rattle, shriek, crunch". Will be better.
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