Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Had Headlight Polished

julz2bit

By julz2bit,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

julz2bit Contributor

julz2bit

Posted
Posted

Just had my headlights polished today, because they were going milky and I thought I would post some pics of them.

The place I used was called GT Glass Technology and he comes out to you, I just had the plastic cut back and polished and they resealed

so they wont fade for a couple of years. Here is his number if you want to ring him 0412 844 697. Price will vary it depends on how bad you plastic is.

Before post-54859-1251455901_thumb.jpg

After post-54859-1251455973_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285525-r34-had-headlight-polished/
Share on other sites
craig132 Collaborator

craig132

Posted
Posted

i think you can buy a tube of that polishing stuff, just rub it on and it comes up the same as that we did it too my car once it was similar to your r34. id imagine it would be cheaper by doing it ya self. cant remember what its called but id presume theyd sell it at autobarn n such places. its amazing how good it comes up and how different it looks

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
I had it done in Warradale He was from Chrisities Beach but im not sure how far he goes just give him a call.

pretty sure he is from lonsdale off o'sulluvans beach rd. , spoke to him a while back about polishing my scratched back window. from all reports he is the only person with the stuff to do it right in town ????

FYI, you can polish your own headlights for cheap as hell. using 2000grit wet sandpaper, polishing compound or aviation window polish.. and some masking tape to protect the rest of the car. a small buffer speeds the process but can be done by hand.

the auto stores plastic polish crap wont cut it , unless its not bad off. and dont forget some polish can stuff up some types of plastic

its not regular plastic its lexan , much stronger

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
The stuff that most people use including myself is meguiars PlastX.

just to save some money, it doesnt work if your lights are yellowing , it is a very mild abrasive .....most lights need more help then that provides.

you can use Megulars M105 it works a treat on lights

julz2bit Contributor

julz2bit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What was the price for getting yours rubbed back? I've been considering getting complete new headlights due to a small crack and really bad fogging, but that has come up really well :)

I payed $132 for both lights, beats buying new ones . Mine has cracking around the edges of the light which dont come out because its all the way through. but he will tell you if it can be done or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • GTSBoy
      Can't put strut back

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...