Up Grading Brake Boster/master Cylinder On S1

[25stagea]

Hey all ive done a r33 gtst brake conversion and now need to up grade my booster and master cylinder to cope with the new brakes

has any body done this if so what have you used ( out of what car)

cheers

Lachy

[KiwiRS4T]

Why do you want to upgrade? I have been told my existing MC will cope with GTT brakes (haven't had time to fit them yet but I believe others have done it with no MC change).

[StageaTypeS]

I changed my brakes on a S2 to R33GTST calipers and I still use the original Master Cylinder. Car seems fine, it did seem slightly different initially e.g. slightly more travel but otherwise there fine.

[syzsounds]

Tried a brake stopper ?

Supposed to make a huge difference what with the bulkhead flexing a touch.

I'm getting mine made and fitted this afternoon.

I'll let you know how it works out.

Oh, And i also have some GTT brakes to fit too .. If the go under my wheels .

[darrinspencer]

When I fitted R34 GTT brakes I put the R34 booster and master in as well

Fitted fine, looked exactly the same as the series 2 stagea one but did have a different part number.

[25stagea]

i tried re bleeding the brakes as i thought that might have been what was making the pedel feel spungy and long in travel , but it didnt make a difference.

i think i will try fitting a 33 boster and master cylinder as they are 33 brakes i am using

[KiwiRS4T]

Finally fitted my GTT rear brakes. Thanks to other people's "how tos" I bought some metal cutting blades for my angle grinder to cut the lip off the backing plate and pulled the nipple out of the inlet (although the banjo bolt was a fraction too long that way so cut a couple of threads off it). The main bolts were exactly the same as the stockers. The master cylinder is coping fine now but I'll see how it is when I get the fronts on. I am using the GTT 4 pot calipers but have brackets, to space them out for bigger rotors, which I am not sure goe with the GTT calipers so I'll see soon!

[STAGE1]

Hi

I have recently done the R33 upgrade on my S1. I did the front a while ago (calipers only) and everything worked fine except the peddle had a little more travel. Now I have put the rears on I thort that I would do the m/cylinder (that’s m/cylinder only $80.oo 2nd hand) at the same time. That’s because when you upgrade to bigger brakes they require more fluid to operate. The standard S1 m/cylinder is a BM50 and the R33 is a BM57 (1-3/16”) so now my peddle only travels about 25mm and has a very firm and positive feel to it.

I used one of these to cut the dust cover off it’s a punch so there is no sparks to worry about. $70.oo from Supercheap

Get one of these from Auto barn ($11.oo) and you can do the brake bleed yourself. It has a spring and ball in it so it holds the brake fluid in the clear tube so you can check for air. You pump the peddle five or six times check for air fill m/cylinder and go again if there is air in the tube

Hope this helps

[DaveB]

Awesome thanks Phil. I don't know why but for some reason I always thought you had to pressure-bleed cars with ABS. Apparently not... = easier

Edited September 26, 2009 by DaveB

[KiwiRS4T]

Good write up Phil. So you're saying the R33 (presumably turbo) has a bigger master cylinder than the S1 Stagea? We certainly have been short changed on a few components. Good to know it doesn't have to be a 34GTT mc but can be off a 33GTST.

[DaveB]

Just checking... does the R34GTT use the same master cylinder (BM57) as the R33GTST?

Edited September 26, 2009 by DaveB

[STAGE1]

I was told by the gent at the import wreckers that it was off an R33 so I can’t say whether it is the same as an R34 but it doesn’t really matter all we need is one with BM57 written on it and it will bolt straight up. As far as pressure bleeding goes if you bleed the m/cylinder first it should push all the air through to the wheels (I had the car on four stands on level ground weather that makes any difference). I did have someone give me a hand at the end (blister -turned up when the work was done lol) but there was no air in the system doing it the usual way with two people.

I am running EBC Green stuff all round (Front-DP21200 Rear-DP2826) I found they work really well although you have to watch your first brake application in really cold weather (firm peddle reduced braking till they get a little heat in them). They are very dusty for the first five hundred KL aprox but after that there is nothing to speak of.

I am very happy with how they work. We went on the SE stagea cruise 20.9.09 and I had four adults one child and an esky on some windy roads and it didn’t matter how often I used the brakes the feel was the same.

[KiwiRS4T]

Now doing the fronts on my S1. I have a set of R34 calipers and rotors and they fit no problem - the bolts are the same just have to change the inlet on the caliper to use the banjo fitting. As it happens i saw a big brake kit after i bought the R34 stuff which gives me slightly bigger again rotors (324mm) but these are heat treated, as new, and slotted, whereas the R34 ones would have had to be skimmed and slotted, and there's a bracket which moves the R34 calipers out a touch. Brakes work fine but i have lined up a bigger m/c as above just to reduce the pedal travel.

[DaveB]

What m/c will you be using? Is the R34 m/c a BM57 as well?

[STAGE1]

One thing I did not mention was that I had to change the resoviour so the wiring would plug back in.

I held the m/c in the vice and used a file between the two to pop it off then it’s just a matter of putting yours back on

[KiwiRS4T]

What m/c will you be using? Is the R34 m/c a BM57 as well?

Dunno but I imagine so. the one I bought off Trade me turned out to be a BM44 - my fault for not checking - so I am still on the look out for a BM57!