Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've searched but just wondering for this conversion:

What do I need to do to use the R34 ECU in my R32? I believe I have to get my R32 loom spliced with the R34 loom and use R34 afm/etc

Do I just get the looms spliced, put the motor in, plug the loom etc up to the R34 ecu and turn the key?

It's an Auto neo but I'm using my RB20DET gearbox. Will I need to trick the ECU into thinking it's in neutral/park?

What clutch should I use so as not to crunch my box (I know it will happen but I don't want it to happen too soon)?

Is it possible to get a 'replacement' flywheel? I'm not really interested in a lightened one and the RB25 has an auto flywheel on it.

Where do you get flywheel bolts from? Nissan Australia?

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285675-rb25det-neo-into-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

The best thing to do is use the R34 loom and modify it to suit the R32. I normally remove the R32 specific wires (climate water temp sensor, wiper plug, fuel pump dropping resistor and body loom plug connectors) and integrate them into the RB25 loom. The only real issue you may encounter is using the AC. I can’t recall the detail but I noted it last I was reviewing the wiring diagram for the Neo.

If your car was originally an auto and you are converting it to manual you will need to bypass the inhibit switch but other than that I don’t recall any issue with the ECU.

With respect to your clutch you should be able to source one from your local wrecker, bolts as well.

The clutch you use will depend on your power requirements.

Hope this helps

  • 5 years later...

Hey guys

sorry to bring this up but i have just put a RB25det NEO into my R32 gtst,
everything mechanical is done, now I'm up to the wiring, i am using the NEO loom and ecu, basically the body wiring of the 32gtst into the NEO loom is what im wanting to do.
does anyone have a write up or guide for this ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...