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Update... After my last update there was two issues I ran into. The first was the driveshaft, mainly that I wanted a 1350 joint on both ends as I am making ~700+whp... Spicer makes a 1350 yoke out of the CD, but looking everywhere all I could find was 1310's for the rear diff face yoke for the R200 (Mine happens to be a z32 swap). Until I found Driftmotion out of CA makes billet R200 flange yokes, I reached out to them to verify if they offered an Old style R200 not the 350z style, and Arron said they had a few in both styles. Anyways Arron over there is awesome, so I gave him my measurements and a week or so later I got my new driveshaft. The fit up is solid, however I did need to remove the cup on the back of my CD as the shaft yoke was too wide to fit in the cup. The driveshaft is sorted and will handle everything I throw at it. I also tig'd up a mild steel trans mount. I used an energy suspension T56 trans mount as they work for the CD, it's universal so cheaper and easier to find. I made a decent mount, I am absolutely not a fabricator but It will work. I intend on replacing It at some point with something I model in CAD and send to send cut send. When I built it I used some trig to get the operating angles right since I did not have a driveshaft at the time. I left myself some gap to shim the trans up with plates to get it dialed in. The only thing that bugs me is I went a touch too narrow on the cross bar, but it supports and functions well. However my current and persisting issue is with the clutch. The first pass of "Final" install on the trans I reused the pivot ball and fork from the CD as the setup was identical to what I was running on my RB big box. However once it was installed it was clear I did not get the full travel only half. I thought it could be that I am running the transmission plate or the fact there is really 2 pivot ball sizes 41mm and 54mm. Mazworx was not super helpful and said "the bell housing was dimensionally the same an OEM one", and that I need to "use an RB26 push config" which is technically what I was using. So I ordered the 54mm pivot ball incase that is correct, Tonight I swapped it in and it also does not seem correct. I am going to spend some time researching, because I hope they don't mean I also need to run the stamped steel RB26 fork, and I want to avoid purchasing the $500 tilton kit. Either way this is where I am currently stuck... One other note about the Mazworx housing, the clutch slave provision does not fit either, so I will need to clearance material to make it sit flush with the mounting face. Side note, I am using a RB25 Spec twin disk clutch, It worked great on my previous box, their kit is the same for GTS-T and GTR so I don't think the clutch is the problem. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
100% I actually enjoy driving the Tiguan around, has adaptive dampers, launch control, TRI zone climate control. With the old set of tyres, Continental Sport Contact 5, it kept up to my friend's S13 going through Old Pac. Yeah of course, drove it literally just 2 months ago. -
If you have an active leak it would be badly contaminated again by now....I'm pretty sure it is just residual. BTW I suggested checking under the oil cap, not radiator cap. Finally, cooling system pressure testers are cheap to buy, that will tell you with a reasonable degree of confidence if there is a leak anywhere in that system. -
I don't imagine so. It's less about "parts" than it is about process. You just have to screw on adapter ports, because R143a systems have different port valves to R12. Then you need to pump down the system, inert it and extract the old oil and replace with new R134a compatible oil and the refrigerant itself. All done by an AC mechanic (who are the only people licensed to handle refrigerants in Oz). Yes. Absolutely. 60km/day to/from work and whenever else needed. I don't care what anyone else thinks. They're just dirty old Datsuns that were built to be used**. Not f**ken' hero cars to be kept in a shed. **Says he who has one of the nicest, cleanest ones around. -
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