Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my RB30 + Turbo set up

This was built by myself and dad (mechanic), block work done by Westend performance and tuning by Tom and BD4s

Engine has ran flawlessly for the past 4000km and a lot of good parts have gone into it..

Car ran in on 230rwkw and ran for about 1000km with 270rwkw with the small 8cm rear housing turbo

This will fall into an gtst with no issue.

Off the top of my head parts & work done:

Rb25de head (rare r32 head, no VCT)

Reco rb30 block (bore, hone, acid dip etc etc)

Reco rb30 crank (crack test, linish etc etc)

Cp pistons 9:1

Restrictors in block

Reco head

Gtr valve springs

Cpc custom plenum with billet throttle body (will come with acc cable to work in gtst also master cylinder to provide room)

Gates powergrip timing belt

New waterpump

Recondition oil pump

Crank shaft collar

Tomei cam gears

All new gaskets

Tomei head gasket

New tensioners

New king bearings, all replaced

Powder coated cam shaft covers with welded -10 bungs

Reco power steering pump

Hks fconV pro with map and air temp sensor

Gtr injectors

Price 5.5k

I'm sure there parts i've forgotten to list also

TD06 20g with 8cm read housing

Had this set up previously on my rb20 and made 260rwkw

anyone with it will tell you its one of the best rb20 set ups you can buy.

comes with:

recondition Td06 20g turbo 8cm rear housing

new front comp wheel

Front dump pipe

Oil line

Custom exhaust manifold

braided drain pipe

Tial 38mm Wastegate

Price $1.7k

If you want the turbo set up + motor i can provide a good price

extra parts i can sell to make the install easier are:

Custom power steering reservoir with lines and earls fittings

Custom radiator over flow bottle

Apexi pod filter

UAS catch can with light weight braided hose

rb20 gear box in good condition

Everything is in sydney and i prefer pick up..

Make an offer if you like but nothing stupid.

Thanks

John

Edited by silver gts-t
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...