Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, jst thought id share a little info i got from a little test i did regarding those 'octane boosters'

anyways I recently filled up with a bad batch of fuel and im getting 'safe' but increased knocks then usual; normal from watching my pfc hand controller for the past year is 13-27 (max 29-30 on a hot day)

With this current batch of fuel im getting 37 average at 6000rpm 2nd gear and 5000rpm 3rd gear.

Info from pauls pfc faq tells me that its still safe but i thought it would be a good chance to test some octane boosters to see if there is a difference. Anyways I drove the car as-is; warmed it up for 15 minutes and ran on a stretch of road in 2nd n 3rd gear (2nd to 6000 and 3rd to 5000)

Result was: 38knock in 2nd, reset n 36knock in 3rd.

I added the nulon octane booster (the pro strength thing from autobarn at 25bux) and drove for 10 minutes to disperse the contents then ran the same stretch of road again; results were: 25knock in 2nd @ 6000rpm and 29knock in 3rd @ 5000rpm.

anyways just wanted to share the info with you guys cos im pretty happy, dont take it as 'proven' jst wanted to share.

-Johnny

post-4266-1251690922_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285847-octane-boosters-test-n-results/
Share on other sites

Didn't some mag do a test on all the octane boosters and the Nulon Pro Strength was the only one that made a decent difference? While working at Autobarn the Pro Strength was definetely the best seller.

Edited by PM-R33

I find they work well with shitty fuels, but don't expect it to anything after adding it to fresh premium petrol.

I have an octane booster that I import from America for about $2.50 a bottle (treats 20 gallons / 80 litres). When I mix that with regular unleaded it feels just like Optimax.

One thing to be weary of is these additives sometimes leave deposits in the fuel system.

Ive tried heaps of them and i found out that the only one i noticed made a difference in driving as well as knock was the Nitro NOS octane booster ill post a pic up so you see which one i mean but these do come at a cost though at $40 a bottle to treat one tank of fuel lol and i also found that martini ones are not bad either but be careful, some of them contain lead as well as other chemicals that are not good for Oxygen sensors valve seats and etc.

heres a photo

post-46081-1251701851_thumb.jpg

agree with the others, i dont see the point of octane boosters

either

a) get proper 98 fuel

b) tune your car on the best fuel you can get ie 95 penis if your in a shit area etc

c) if you get a bad batch of 98 PFC users can use temp ign adjust to back out a few deg, or just baby it around

c is my preferred if i buy 98 and its penis fuel 98ron

b is recommended instead of using 95ron and octane booster each time

a is preferred for all around

i found the big wynns race formula to be the best... mind you i just bung the lot in.... they are all evil on spark plugs

http://www.wynns.net/retail_raceformula.aspx

http://www.wynns.net/product_files/Race%20...43905%20PIS.pdf

Edited by URAS
Didn't some mag do a test on all the octane boosters and the Nulon Pro Strength was the only one that made a decent difference? While working at Autobarn the Pro Strength was definetely the best seller.

This Bob Komtel - Street Machine article mentions it, and IIRC he wrote another column about a comparison of octane boosters and Nulon came out on top. Cant find that one tho.

you cant say its a waste of money, its just over priced for what they are.... and they dont create deposits, if anything they help burn the build up and clear it away....

it definately reduces knocking which on a track day could save your engine, not everyone tunes their car every time they throw on new bits... fuel is never at a constant ron rating.... sometimes we will think we're buying 98 ron but we get 97, sometimes its 99, if a car is tuned at 99 and you get a 97 ron in it you will feel if not hear the difference.... then octane booster will help aswell.

ive only used the stuff once and the car does run smoother, but thts in my car, yours may behave different.

either way the stuff is too expensive for what it is

they are all evil on spark plugs

And here in lies the problem :laugh:

If you love changing plugs every few tanks - go for it.

Otherwise, just use good fuel.

Octane boosters are a one-tank wonder, nothing more.

The best thing you can do is buy a drum of race fuel, mix a tank 30/70, much better than these additives.

Thankyou for this reply, i actually went to autobarn to buy a drum of race fuel to mix a tank but they said that i required some form of liscence to buy it; now is this right or is the bloke at the store just a 'know-nothing, know-it-all'

seems they had a leaded 100octane there for 75dollars/20litres

I actually bought 2 addidtives; the nulon one and another best seller which ill try next time.

with this new spark plug issue thats jst come up, ill be looking at mixing race gas with my pump tune for a litttle extra safety.

any info on the liscence???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they do. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec How does the liner interact with that? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...