Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

-------------

quick question for those that don't want to read the rest:

does running a 7psi or 10psi actuator make a difference in boost response if i am running a boost tap controller? theoretically the boost controller should keep the wastegate completely shut until a certain level, right?

-----------------

long version to help those with infinite boost issues in the future:

i have a hybrid boost controller installed on my rb20. ever since i bought my car it has boosted to 14psi even on its lowest setting and finally got around to investigating.

1. took the boost controller out and routed vacuum line straight from compressor housing to STOCK rb20 actuator. took it for a spin and still boosts to 14psi but just more gradually due to lack of boost controller solenoid.

2. took the actuator rod off the wastegate thingy and took it for a spin. gunned it up a hill in 2nd till 6000rpms and it only hit around 9psi at 6krpms after a laggy build-up. i have an aftermarket x-force dump but i am pretty sure the wastegate isn't hitting it. the wastegate swingy thingy on the outside hits the heatshield attachment first before anything else. so my wastegate should be opening all the way if i don't go straight to 14psi, right???

3. so, went back to the vacuum hose from nipple to actuator, pulled it off and chucked a new one on to eliminate the split hose issue. went for a spin and still hitting 14psi.

4. now i'm here. i assume the actuator is f**ked but dont have access to compressed air to check. might get my girlfriend to try and blow 10 psi into it - hahaha. so this comes back to my quick question - i'm chucking an r33 turbo on soon and it has the 7psi actuator. should i run the 7psi or the 10psi r32 one with my boost tap for best responsiveness or it won't matter? could anything else be causing my overboosting problem that I haven't covered, cos the last thing i want is blowing my new turbo if it's something engine related.

thanks folks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285852-actuator-question-quick-one/
Share on other sites

no it might not be hitting, what turbo is it.

I.E. if you put a T2 turbo with a small wastegate on the rb25 and run it with up the actuator dissconnected it'll produce a large amount of boost before it chokes because the wastegate can't pass enough gas and therefore forces gas through the turbine and boost is produced.

What your problem is is that the wastegate isn't big enough to pass enough gas to drop the boost below 9psi in the top end. this is your lower limit and you can't run less that that. Any actuator you put on the turbo will then increase the figure because you are adding a further restriction on the wastegate.

Go get you wastegate machined and fit a bigger wastegate flap.

Edited by D_Stirls
how far does it move before it hits the heat shield you mentioned ?

moves around 50-60 degrees, i do get your drift though. how far should it be swinging? if it swings as much as it should, could it still be hitting inside? factory heat shield on a stock rb20 turbo.. shouldn't be an issue but i'll check anyway to be sure.

stock rb20 on rb20det

don't think that's the issue.

i'll be swapping over a turbo in a couple of weeks so i'll make sure the r33 turbo doesn't hit before going on. reckon a dremel is powerful enough to scrub a dump pipe down if that's the issue?

no it might not be hitting, what turbo is it.

I.E. if you put a T2 turbo with a small wastegate on the rb25 and run it with up the actuator dissconnected it'll produce a large amount of boost before it chokes because the wastegate can't pass enough gas and therefore forces gas through the turbine and boost is produced.

What your problem is is that the wastegate isn't big enough to pass enough gas to drop the boost below 9psi in the top end. this is your lower limit and you can't run less that that. Any actuator you put on the turbo will then increase the figure because you are adding a further restriction on the wastegate.

Go get you wastegate machined and fit a bigger wastegate flap.

oh shit actually it is getting about 90 degrees

starts at around 10 oclock and swings anti-clockwise till about 5-6

need to take geometry again i think

f**kk. so it should be opening all the way.. could it be that i didnt wire it open? thought that exhaust gas would be suffiencient to push it open.

Edited by rawd

what boost do you want to run?

are you sure its a stock actuator? (stock gtr ones are 14psi) might be worth looking into!!!!

also what exhaust do you have excessive back pressure may be the cause. eg (blocked cat)

running a 7psi or 10psi actuator make no difference in boost response. eg will still hit 7psi at same rpm but the 10pis one will keep climbing until 10psi

I want to run 12 psi on the r33 turbo - right now I can't get it under 14psi

Could be a gtr - replaced by the previous owner maybe. Still doesn't explain the disconnected actuator still climbing to 9psi. Think I swung the wastegate thing the wrong way though when i disconnected it so I'm gonna do the test again - plus it's fun giving it with the wastegate roaring.

X-force exhaust with twin pipes instead of cannon.

Thanks for the short answer - I guess I'll run r33 actuator with the boost controller then. Cheers.

im fairly certain gtr's are 14psi but they also run a boost restricter (solenoid on the drivers side)

moving along

is dump and front in one (turbo to car in one)

or is it a 2 peace

i have xforce dumps on my gtr and they over boosted like shit

look them off and relised where the split type dumps join the hole was way smaller than the actuator pipe eg (pipe 1inch hole 0.5 inch)

i opened the join out as far as i could never had another problem!!!!!!!

i have attached a pic showing what i am talking about

hope this helps

post-36631-1251796530.jpg

Interesting that so many people, myself included, have overboosting troubles with aftermarket dumps. They must be manufactured pretty poorly. Alot of them advertise guaranteed boost gains so I don't doubt that sometimes it's on purpose, but most of the time it'd be poor weld jobs / pipe positioning.

In process of trying to get a refund off my supplier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
    • I hear the old "I'd never use a pressure washer on my motorbike" BS in the dirtbike community too.  The only people that have had a problem from using a pressure washer on anything are the people that aren't using them properly.  If you hold the wand any more than 45 cms away from pretty much anything (radiators, wiring connectors, paint, etc) you aren't going to cause any damage.  We've had detailers wreck moulds and seals on cars at work before and the only reason why is they held the pressure washer too close and on the one spot for too long.  If you have 5% more brain power than a detailer then you know not to not do that and you'll never have a problem.
    • I'm pretty much healed up post surgery so I spent another almost full day out in the shed re-arranging everything to make room for all of the shit that I've taken off the car.  I need to get everything off the floor and away from the car for when I start making a massive mess stripping off the remaining body deadener and then for the the painting process.  Almost got the shed to a point now where I feel I can actually start working on the car again (clean shed clean mind or something!).  Almost 11 years of accumulated car parts, building supplies, tools, junk, etc have taken a long time to get in some sort of order again!  Most stuff is now boxed up and in the back shed if it's not car related.  Most people would still be horrified walking into my shed but it's significantly better than it was before!   For those that saw my separate post the other day, yeah I ordered one.... This version- I convinced myself to stop being a clown, wake up to yourself and realise it will take you 5 weeks to make one by which stage you're over working on the car again...  Maybe I am getting on top of my "mental ailments" and making smarter choices.... $1450 delivered which will take my miserable half-dutch arse a few days to get over having spent that much!  If I don't have a use for it straight away after my car is off it I might even see if there is a "rental market" for them.  See if anyone wants to hire it for a period of time.  $25 a week or something like that.  I'll worry about that when my car is actually ready to come off it though as that might be a while away!! There's now no excuses now for not ending up with an underside you could eat off! Away for kids sport the next few weekends so hopefully can get the rotisserie assembled ready to go for the car to go straight on it the next available weekend.    
    • I always use my Karcher, but it's only a little one that I picked up from Supercheap  The only issue I ever had with a pressure washer was when I was a kid cleaning coaches, they had a hi-po industrial sized petrol jobbie that would strip paint if you got to close I saying this, we have a fairly high power washer at work with a diesel powered heater that sprays water at about 60°c, it works great for removing old wax and road grime on the underbody after some foam cannon action, albeit from a "stand off" distance of a few feet
    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
×
×
  • Create New...