Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clearing out the shed, and have a few bits and pieces that I need to get rid of

Set of Apex'i shocks, with 1 1/2 inch lowered and nice and firm Apex'i springs. Shocks are damper adjustable, and in really good condition - only selling due to having fitted a set of Coilovers - $550 - offers considered

Trust/Greddy dual pillar mount gauge holder, used for about a month, not a cheap copy, but a proper Trust one, with box in as new condition - $130 *SOLD*

Stock R32 turbo, in good condition, never boosted above stock and very minimal play in bearing etc, with water banjo fittings and stock dump pipe - $250 offers considered

Set of stock R32 rims, with a few scrapes on them and newish fronts and 60% rear tyres - $400

Stock fuel pump and holder (complete) with stock pump that was working 100% when removed - $150

Speco oil temp gauge - mechanical guage with fitting for sump plug, used - $40

2 x 18" Michelin slicks from GTP car (look like about 265x35) used but still good for a bit of fun $50 (Adelaide only)

2x 17" BF Goodrich slicks, of GTP car, 235x45, used bit still ok for a bit of thrash $50 (Adelaide only)

Used R32 GTST front brake rotors, need machining but otherwise ok - $70 *SOLD*

New set of Bendix Ultimate front brake pads, suit R32GTST (not sure but also might fit R33 and S14) $50 *SOLD*

Two fog lights out of R32 GTST Type M in good condition, working with globes - $70

thats about all I can think of for now, will post others stuff once I think of it

post email adress if you want pics of any of the items

Thanks, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28598-r32-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

Brody - pads are brand new, sealed in plastic. The rotors are in pretty good condition, need a machine though as they have a bit of a lip on the outer edge. I was gonna do that but got slotted rotors and racebrakes pads instead, hence why I have a set of new Bendix pads for sale

Enrico - Will take some pics on the weekend and email them to you, they are in ok condition, I was going to use them but never got around to it

All PM's replied to

I am off on holidays as of monday, but still will be able to check PM's etc, but I apologise if it takes a little longer than usual

It will give me plenty of time to get frieght organized for those of you who have bought some of my parts

Regards, Chris

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...