Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clearing out the shed, and have a few bits and pieces that I need to get rid of

Set of Apex'i shocks, with 1 1/2 inch lowered and nice and firm Apex'i springs. Shocks are damper adjustable, and in really good condition - only selling due to having fitted a set of Coilovers - $550 - offers considered

Trust/Greddy dual pillar mount gauge holder, used for about a month, not a cheap copy, but a proper Trust one, with box in as new condition - $130 *SOLD*

Stock R32 turbo, in good condition, never boosted above stock and very minimal play in bearing etc, with water banjo fittings and stock dump pipe - $250 offers considered

Set of stock R32 rims, with a few scrapes on them and newish fronts and 60% rear tyres - $400

Stock fuel pump and holder (complete) with stock pump that was working 100% when removed - $150

Speco oil temp gauge - mechanical guage with fitting for sump plug, used - $40

2 x 18" Michelin slicks from GTP car (look like about 265x35) used but still good for a bit of fun $50 (Adelaide only)

2x 17" BF Goodrich slicks, of GTP car, 235x45, used bit still ok for a bit of thrash $50 (Adelaide only)

Used R32 GTST front brake rotors, need machining but otherwise ok - $70 *SOLD*

New set of Bendix Ultimate front brake pads, suit R32GTST (not sure but also might fit R33 and S14) $50 *SOLD*

Two fog lights out of R32 GTST Type M in good condition, working with globes - $70

thats about all I can think of for now, will post others stuff once I think of it

post email adress if you want pics of any of the items

Thanks, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28598-r32-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

Brody - pads are brand new, sealed in plastic. The rotors are in pretty good condition, need a machine though as they have a bit of a lip on the outer edge. I was gonna do that but got slotted rotors and racebrakes pads instead, hence why I have a set of new Bendix pads for sale

Enrico - Will take some pics on the weekend and email them to you, they are in ok condition, I was going to use them but never got around to it

All PM's replied to

I am off on holidays as of monday, but still will be able to check PM's etc, but I apologise if it takes a little longer than usual

It will give me plenty of time to get frieght organized for those of you who have bought some of my parts

Regards, Chris

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...