Jump to content
SAU Community

What Would You Do To Your R35 With 25 Grand?


druzilla32
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'd sell it and buy a ZR1 :P

No wait, I'd buy an exhaust system for several thousand dollars :)

Seriously though, if I had an R35 that I planned on keeping for a long long time I'd probably look at an exhaust system and some sort of ultra professional custom colour for it. Would be nice to see a couple of out-there, different colours on the R35...even if it depreciates the hell out of the thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See R35 Development thread. $25000 would be a down payment on all that carbon!!!

I would love to paint my R35 but $10000 on a paintjob that makes my car worth $10000 less

is a bit of a bitter pill.

Or you could just spend the $25000 on a nice R32 GTR to thrash to the shops & keep the

kays down on the R35!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Save the money for genuine service costs...

Thata a bit boring... lol

See R35 Development thread. $25000 would be a down payment on all that carbon!!!

I would love to paint my R35 but $10000 on a paintjob that makes my car worth $10000 less

is a bit of a bitter pill.

Or you could just spend the $25000 on a nice R32 GTR to thrash to the shops & keep the

kays down on the R35!

Nah, I bought the 35 to thrash it, not to baby it around and show it off to friends from my garage

Switzer package

Might be a little full on? Maybe the p600?

Put a down payment on a new transmission for when it shits itself...

sheil be right!

in all seriousness, I would like to get 10.xx down the 1/4.

Whats it take for the gtr to run 10's?

keep in mind its still going to be a street car.. will be used on track more then drag, but still want to own a 10 sec car before i die.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well haltech ran 11.1 in their car with boost and ecu tuning. I would say a 10.9 is possible with some boost, exhaust and some tuning. I would also say the haltech is probably the pick of the ecus around.

but it you want it to be a consistent 10 second car and stay reliable then I'd be doing a fair few more upgrades. look at a small turbo upgrade so you don't have to run the stockers so hard, you may or may not need bigger injectors to go with them, and look at things like transmission cooler to give the thing a chance at a long life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...