After Market Parts For N/a Cars

[R34 -_-]

Has anyone else found it really hard to find performance parts for an N/A skyline?

All i can find is f**kn pod filters and exhausts.

Any help/links would be good cheers.

( btw i live in New Zealand )

[_bobo_]

not a whole lot you can do as it is without starting to spend big bucks..

basic mods...

pod with CAI & heatshield

exhaust

extractors

basic handling upgrades

and if you want, get a emanage blue i blieve + tune.

[R34 -_-]

I replaced the whole exhaust and intake, (yes even the intake piping from the throttle body) have a pod + heat shield. Got Tein springs and wider rims. I also had to replace the coil packs so i have brand new coils..

Only thing i haven't done is a tune, is there much a tune will do with such basic mods??

Btw its an R34 so it should adjust a few minor things by itself i think..

I'd be keen to do something else as long as it doesnt cost more than $2k (unless it gives an impressive increase to performance then i would look at spending more)

[AYW550]

I replaced the whole exhaust and intake, (yes even the intake piping from the throttle body) have a pod + heat shield. Got Tein springs and wider rims. I also had to replace the coil packs so i have brand new coils..

Only thing i haven't done is a tune, is there much a tune will do with such basic mods??

Btw its an R34 so it should adjust a few minor things by itself i think..

I'd be keen to do something else as long as it doesnt cost more than $2k (unless it gives an impressive increase to performance then i would look at spending more)

hey mate, im in NZ also, ive done all the same mods and after getting some advice from a couple of people on here i reckon the next best upgrade is gonna be new cams, especailly if you got a 2k budget!, but from what ive read our r34's will also need gtr solid lifters or soemthing like that, plus labour, so now cams is prolly tipping over 2k but they are supose to be good for like 30 kw with a good tune??

right now im just focusing on cleaning up the engine bay and trying to make the car lighter anyway possible with future upgrades

Edited September 1, 2009 by AYW550

[_bobo_]

well the ecus are capable of learning small mods like intake/exhaust by itself and adjusting...even if you reset the ecu so it learns how u drive i hear people saying that the car drives slightly better.

not to sure how much increase a emanage blue + tune will get you i still want to find out myself.

after all that not too sure what direction to go in mods..theres a topic all the top of the n/a section which tells you all mods you can do..

heres a good read for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html

[R34 -_-]

A guy was selling his R34 GT-R cams a while back and he said that they might be able to fit the rb25 (de and de-t). I'm not sure if thats true or even if they would be ideal in an N/A setup

ALSO

Is there anything cheap on the list below:

* Motor (shave the head and/or block to increase compression)

o Head

+ Port and polish (remove restrictions in the head)

+ Oversized valves (allow more air to flow)

+ Cams (regrind, intake and exhaust side to improve breathing)

o Gasket (thinner gasket to increase compression ratio)

o Block

+ Pistons (increase compression, light weight)

+ Crank (light weight)

+ Rods (increase compression)

Wouldn't mind having more bottom end torque/power as i don't like revving high lol..

And on a slightly different subject, what would i need to replace if i wanted to restore lost performance (my cars done just over 104,000 ks now) and doesn't seem as responsive as it was when i had it at 56,000ks

Edited September 1, 2009 by R34 -_-

[_bobo_]

heard about advancing the timing/ignition or something which is suppose to increase peformance.

cams or cam gears i think are $100-200 only 1-2kw i think and the other is real expensive but boosts 30kw as someone said above.

[R34 -_-]

heard about advancing the timing/ignition or something which is suppose to increase peformance.

cams or cam gears i think are $100-200 only 1-2kw i think and the other is real expensive but boosts 30kw as someone said above.

The R34's advance and retard the timing by themselves to the furthest point before pinging occurs. I'm sure you can hear it when you turn the car on (inconsistent idle for a few seconds), its especially noticeable when you disconnect the battery and restart the car.

Edited September 1, 2009 by R34 -_-

[AYW550]

A guy was selling his R34 GT-R cams a while back and he said that they might be able to fit the rb25 (de and de-t). I'm not sure if thats true or even if they would be ideal in an N/A setup

ALSO

Is there anything cheap on the list below:

* Motor (shave the head and/or block to increase compression)

o Head

+ Port and polish (remove restrictions in the head)

+ Oversized valves (allow more air to flow)

+ Cams (regrind, intake and exhaust side to improve breathing)

o Gasket (thinner gasket to increase compression ratio)

o Block

+ Pistons (increase compression, light weight)

+ Crank (light weight)

+ Rods (increase compression)

Wouldn't mind having more bottom end torque/power as i don't like revving high lol..

And on a slightly different subject, what would i need to replace if i wanted to restore lost performance (my cars done just over 104,000 ks now) and doesn't seem as responsive as it was when i had it at 56,000ks

2 words, 'cam' and 'belt' lol, mine is about 20 thousand over due for a change and i cant wait to get it changed, (will be done very soon) but i just changed the cam belt on my much smaller and more economical daily driver and its about a 500 dollar job but felt like a whole new car after(was 64,000 over due from previous owners) , way quicker and more responsive as the new belt puts the timing back in place

p.s. i know my car is way over due so dont grill me to bad lol, just got away on me with other upgrades and i only have time to drive it once or twice a week anyways cos of work atm

[R34 -_-]

lol yea i got my belts and water pump changed at 100,xxx ks. Felt better but still not how it once was lol.. My belts were f**ked when i changed them, how the hell did u manage to get away with so many ks?????

[AYW550]

lol yea i got my belts and water pump changed at 100,xxx ks. Felt better but still not how it once was lol.. My belts were f**ked when i changed them, how the hell did u manage to get away with so many ks?????

im not sure ay, lol, im originaly from canada and nobody back home ever seems to change cam belts, but yea, i never should have let it get so far over, but i wont be driving it more then a few hundred km's before i get it changed so fingers crossed,

what oil u running? a thicker oil could help compression (lots of threads here on that) or the throttle body might need a good clean out, did you change plugs when you got new coils? cos ur plugs will be just over their limit now, i just changed mine with my coils and they were buggered

Edited September 1, 2009 by AYW550

[R34 -_-]

iv tried 10w50 and usually use 10w30 but they all perform pretty much the same. Might check out the throttle body tomorrow. Only thing i can think of that would help would be to get a strip of self adhesive heat shield on the intake piping (as it is directly above the headers) and clean my pod filter as it has a few bugs and dust stuck to it.

and yes iv changed my plugs twice since iv had the car.

Edited September 1, 2009 by R34 -_-

[N-DAWG]

I experienced a lot of intake pipe heat after doing my turbo conversion without a heat shield on the manifold and turbo. yes I had a silicone bend on the intake and that was the part that was too hot to touch on the underside, but after using ACL Heat Shield Material over the headers and turbo, combined with boxing up the pod filter, my heat soak issue has decreased "dramatically"!

Before heat shield, leaving the motorway and back on to the main road = a car that was gutless in comparison to how it normally drives. Now it still has that go in it.

HPC Coating your extractors and wrapping them (do it the right way so you don't go corroding the extractors) will help keep engine bay heat to a minimum ensuring everything operates efficiently, and will also help the exhaust gasses escape quickly to increase power. With N/A power, I would suggest that method should work effectively and also help increase power delivery while you're at it.

Here's a pic of my heatshield. Not much to it but it works wonders! Also covers my dump pipe as well and helps keep my turbo lines away from that hot manifold!

From this angle you can see how I've curved it over the manifold creating a bit of a barrier between the rocker covers. The N/A Manifold will probably be slightly different, and I don't know how you would go bolting down the heatshield material (I used a factory turbo manifold so I was able to use factory bolt holes).

...and a link to the product itself: http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

Its construction, consisting of a ceramic filler sandwiched between two 0.15mm aluminised steel sheets, gives a very efficient high temperature thermal barrier suitable for a wide variety of automotive and industrial applications.

850-900 degrees celcius. $48.50PP on eBay for a 700mm x 290mm sheet. I had enough do do the manifold and still have a couple of decent squareish pieces that I'm yet to find a use for.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HEAT-SHIELD-MATERIA...4#ht_814wt_1165

Edited September 1, 2009 by N-DAWG

[R34 -_-]

awesome, thanks heaps

[AYW550]

hey n-dawg, ive been thinking of wrapping my extractors , is the only way to prevent the wrap from causing corrosion to have them HPC coated first?

i tried painting mine with woodstove paint rated to 650 degree celsius and was recommended on the can as being good enough for manifolds but its already flaking off

[R34 -_-]

even the paint that came on my extractors (cobys) has all burnt/flaked off, and only half my resonator has paint on it 2 lol...

[dori34]

hi temp spray paint then heat wrap them

[Hank Scorpio]

Rip out the back seats, weight reduction ftw!

[screamin']

Toyota does some good factory aftrmarket parts for RB's.

4AGE ITB's.

Edited September 2, 2009 by screamin'

[R34 -_-]

Slightly off topic but oh well, does the factory R34 Aero side skirts fit on series 2 R34? (2001 face lift) I just bought a pair today and noticed that they are a bit different than my current ones... doesn't look like the front inserts will fit